Tilton Slave, Zircotech Headers and Injector cleaning

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I want to cut two ball nosed slots on the bellhousing face that mates with the gearbox, so that I can run the bleed and master cylinder lines in-between the gearbox and bellhousing.

Ordered a 12mm Ball Nosed Slot Drill from http://www.drill-service.co.uk to cut out the slots.

I should be able to use the depth gauge on my drill keep the slot roughly the same depth and then finish them off smoothly with a file, sandpaper and some scotchbrite.

Aide

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Hi Steve, yes, decats too. A nice finish all round as well. Aide

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julian64 said:

aide said:

I want to cut two ball nosed slots on the bellhousing face that mates with the gearbox, so that I can run the bleed and master cylinder lines in-between the gearbox and bellhousing.

Ordered a 12mm Ball Nosed Slot Drill from http://www.drill-service.co.uk to cut out the slots.

I should be able to use the depth gauge on my drill keep the slot roughly the same depth and then finish them off smoothly with a file, sandpaper and some scotchbrite.

Aide

Again if you are any distance from me. near brands hatch, don't use a hand drill, come and use a big mill. You will get a much nicer result with a straight line, and don't spend your money on ball nose endmills I have gazillons of them.

Morning Julian,

That's a very kind offer.

I'm around an hour's drive from brands hatch.

I'll PM you.

Many thanks!
Aide

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harry henderson said:

Hi again, it looks as though you don't do things by halves, great thread. Would you mind if I asked how much it cost for the ceramic coating? Cheers.

Hi Harry, thanks, for collection, coating - including decats - and delivery it was £1170 in total.
Best wishes
Aide

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Collected the recored radiator this morning.

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Engine prepped and strapped to a pallet :


Wrapped and collected this afternoon:

Edited by aide on Wednesday 3rd February 11:24

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Jhonno said:

How much?! Wow.. I am sure it was Zircotech did my ACT manifolds and that cost me ~£300!

I think they have a few different options.

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Forgot to ship the water rails with the engine last week, so I zipped up the M40 and dropped them off this morning

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Yes - I called up on Saturday morning to drop off the water rails – I forgot to ship them with the engine.

When we were chatting about what we’re going to do to my engine we went around and looked at the 4.7 in-build and the (rather rare) cams on your engine.

It looks like I have a head stud leaking and an oil seal so I just need head gaskets and the heads rebuilt (new valve and guide work)

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I'm told that original high lift cams aren't available anymore?

I hope to get my engine back in a few weeks.

In the meantime I'll tidy up the engine bay and get everything ready for reassembly.

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My Tilton salve has arrived
And ordered some new -4 clutch lines from http://www.earls.co.uk

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Some more progress..

Tilton Slave;







A visual comparison of standard, RP and Tilton slaves:



Tilton slave moc mounted:



Prep the bellhousing (I put keyserts in last year so that I could torque the RP slave a bit more)


gently tapped in a torqx bit to unscrew the serts:


All prepped:



Start cutting;


Hole made:


No turning back now...



Random workspace picture:



I wanted to cut a groove on the face of the bellhousing, that mates with the gearbox, so that I would be able to remove the gearbox and slave while leaving the bellhousing in situ. However, looking at the thickness of the area, I don't think it's a good idea to remove material around there. I'm probably going to drill holes in the bellhousing to accomadate the feed and bleed clutch lines.

Aide

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Some more progress..

Prepped the bellhousing:


Removed the sharp edges and buffed it with some scotchbrite:



And checked the diameter of the anti-rotation bolt hole:


I'll tap the spigot cowling to fit the anti-rotation bolt this week.

But instead of a bolt I might get some 6mm stainless rod, cut it down to size and thread it just enough so that it thghtens flush with spigot cowling.

Does anyone think cleaning a bellhousing in the dishwasher is grounds for divorce?

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I might coat it in oven cleaner for a few hours this evening while I'm removing the air con condenser.

Or maybe not!
http://www.hdforums.com/forum/detailing/229259-ove...

Edited by aide on Thursday 11th February 08:41

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Thanks Peter - I have alloy wheel cleaner, perfect.
And then in the dishwasher.

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Some more progress this evening.


Gave the bellhousing a good clean:



New Wilwood 0.625 Master Cylinder:


Measured the connection so that I can get an adapter for the new hoses I ordered:



I moc mounted the Tilton slave and clutch assembly to see how it looks.

When I took the engine out, and while the clutch assy and bellhousing were still fitted, I measured 87mm from the face of the bellhousing to the tips of the clutch diaphragm.

And with that distance roughly set; the gearbox, slave and clutch look like this:







For the shoulder bolt that stops the slave rotating - I ordered a 50mm M6 Cap head bolt, a nut to lock it down and a NordLock washer to ensure it won't vibrate loose.

I'll tap the spigot cowling for the shoulder bolt and drill holes in the bellhousing for the bleed and feed lines tomorrow evening.

The new clutch lines should arrive either tomorrow or Saturday..

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Just found this shoulder bolt:
http://www.wdsltd.co.uk/product/5009/stainless-ste...
Just ordered a 887-M5-6-40.

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jammy_basturd said:

Looking great aide.

The only other thing I'll say is that you have the plushest garage seat I've seen outside of Iron Man!

Thanks j_b, wish I had Jarvis to clean up the huge mess I made cutting a hole in the bellhousing!

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ukkid35 said:

Thanks for sharing this Adrian, looks like amazing work.

I am very optimistic that the Tilton will be more reliable than OEM.

I only have one big concern, and if CerbWill hadn't proved that it could be done then I would have serious doubts: Fitting the Gearbox.

With this arrangement you can't disengage the clutch before offering up the gearbox, which means it has to be perfectly aligned. Like you I have had the gearbox off several times, and I always find that refitting is a three man (or person) job: GF depresses clutch, assistant takes the weight of the gearbox, and I try to manoeuvre it into place whilst swearing profusely. Even after using an alignment tool we still couldn't fit the gearbox without my GF's assistance. And all that without the hassle of the Tilton's hydraulics.

Good luck and congratulations on your progress so far.

Encouraging words, thanks Paul.

I've had the gearbox out more times that I'd like to admit tbh!

However, I've found that lowering the engine allows you to get the box out and resting on the manifolds. Then, after you rotate it 180 degrees, if you raise the engine up again you can get it out – by feeding it down and forward, spigot first – with the bellhousing still in situ.

I remove and refit it by myself - I have a T5 Spigot shaft to alighn the clutch (two actually) and I've never had any issues. Plus I've never had to pry the exhaust manifolds open or remove the gear selector.

The new release bearing is pretty small and the bellhousing hole large enough to accommodate it so I don't think there will be any remove/fit issues.

Peter Rendi (crypto) had a Tilton release bearing fitted by his garage in Switzertland and has been running for around a year now. He said to me that it's been fine so far, which is a positive sign wrt to reliability.

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Some feed and bleed hoses with heat shielding arrived today:


And some cap head bolts with lock nuts to see if they're suitable as an anti-rotation bolt.