Tilton Slave, Zircotech Headers and Injector cleaning
Discussion
Hi Nils,
Just waiting on the engine to come back now.
I have other jobs that I need to do this week as well like replace some heat shielding on pipes etc. and treat the chassis.
The slave is fitted and more or less set in its final position.
Just need to order some service parts for the reassembly and installation.
Aide
Just waiting on the engine to come back now.
I have other jobs that I need to do this week as well like replace some heat shielding on pipes etc. and treat the chassis.
The slave is fitted and more or less set in its final position.
Just need to order some service parts for the reassembly and installation.
Aide
Edited by aide on Tuesday 1st March 20:40
djstevec said:
Well done that man!! Please keep us/me updated with the performance of the clutch over time.
Thanks Steve, will do. So far so good.
The pedal feel never changes.
The original and rp used to feel easier when cold and got stiffer once warmed up.
The tilton is just the same all the time, hot or cold, in heavy city traffic or on the motorway.
CerbWill did this mod first and kindly shared his knowledge with me.
Thanks Will.
I never fitted the willwood master, have always used the std one.
I swapped the GB in June17 and the tilton slave is still perfect.
The only advice I can give is follow the instructions when installing, that's it!
Thanks Will.
I never fitted the willwood master, have always used the std one.
I swapped the GB in June17 and the tilton slave is still perfect.
The only advice I can give is follow the instructions when installing, that's it!
An RP slave is perfectly fine, but only if it is:
- Fitted correctly within the bellhousing
- Your flywheel isn't worn
- You have a clutch pedal stop fitted and
- Have insulated and heat shielded the the part of clutch line running from master to salve vial the exhaust headers (4.5)
The problem is that the clutch assembly bolts to to the part of the flywheel that doesn't wear.
But the flywheel wears and the step lowers.
The position of diaphragm fingers on a fully fitted AP clutch (in it's engaged, resting position) are governed by the height of the step on the flywheel.
On a new flywheel the diaphragm fingers on a fully fitted new clutch are almost parallel to the friction plates and flywheel - there is not much work required to disengage under these conditions.
As the step wears the engaged resting position of the diaphragm fingers changes and they move away from the flywheel.
The extra effort required from the slave (and master too!), to not only do its normal job of disengaging the clutch, must have to get the diaphragm fingers into their correct position before it actually disengages the clutch.
Consider the extra effort required from the Master and Slave seals in light of substandard or non existent clutch-line heat shielding plus heat soak into the slave seals via the bellhousing from (the poorly cooled) engine that it is mated to.
It is easy to see that we have a situation where the heat and pressure tolerances for the master and slave (OEM or RP) are not able to handle the stress put on them in cars with worn flywheel steps.
Assuming that the slave was fitted correctly and a clutch pedal stop is fitted then as long as the step on the flywheel is correct even an OEM slave is fine,
- Fitted correctly within the bellhousing
- Your flywheel isn't worn
- You have a clutch pedal stop fitted and
- Have insulated and heat shielded the the part of clutch line running from master to salve vial the exhaust headers (4.5)
The problem is that the clutch assembly bolts to to the part of the flywheel that doesn't wear.
But the flywheel wears and the step lowers.
The position of diaphragm fingers on a fully fitted AP clutch (in it's engaged, resting position) are governed by the height of the step on the flywheel.
On a new flywheel the diaphragm fingers on a fully fitted new clutch are almost parallel to the friction plates and flywheel - there is not much work required to disengage under these conditions.
As the step wears the engaged resting position of the diaphragm fingers changes and they move away from the flywheel.
The extra effort required from the slave (and master too!), to not only do its normal job of disengaging the clutch, must have to get the diaphragm fingers into their correct position before it actually disengages the clutch.
Consider the extra effort required from the Master and Slave seals in light of substandard or non existent clutch-line heat shielding plus heat soak into the slave seals via the bellhousing from (the poorly cooled) engine that it is mated to.
It is easy to see that we have a situation where the heat and pressure tolerances for the master and slave (OEM or RP) are not able to handle the stress put on them in cars with worn flywheel steps.
Assuming that the slave was fitted correctly and a clutch pedal stop is fitted then as long as the step on the flywheel is correct even an OEM slave is fine,
The step on the flywheel determines the position of the, at rest, clutch diaphragm fingers.
When the step is machined properly it takes minimal effort to press the clutch. i.e. bliss.
The heat is not clutch, In my honest opinion. It is CATS, and getting a modified ECU with the cooling temperature settings from Dom at TVR Power will help.
When the step is machined properly it takes minimal effort to press the clutch. i.e. bliss.
The heat is not clutch, In my honest opinion. It is CATS, and getting a modified ECU with the cooling temperature settings from Dom at TVR Power will help.
DuncanM said:
aide said:
I fell in love with a Cerbera many years ago.
Nothing comes close.
Mine is gone.
I cried.
All the things you are experiencing I have seen.
Heat build up on the clutch is not flywheel.
It's cooling.
Ahh I'm sorry to hear your Cerb has gone, I remember Harry's vid a few years back?Nothing comes close.
Mine is gone.
I cried.
All the things you are experiencing I have seen.
Heat build up on the clutch is not flywheel.
It's cooling.
I hope you've replaced it with something exciting?
I'll take this opportunity, to thank you again, for your amazing contribution to our community, the RS-AJP app
I'll get an old one in need of some TLC next year..
If there are any left!
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