New acquisition - oil Issues
Discussion
Wolvesboy said:
Hi,
Just read though the PDFs provided and seems as if they must be for the Speed 6 as my engine top only has the one rail with AJP8 on it. Not a "H" as indicated in the diagrams.
Am I correct in presuming the Oil Pressure Switch is in the same place as indicated by the PDFs ( to the side of the rear coil)? I'm removing it before ordering a new one as two different switch examples provided on the TVR Parts web site.
I will attempt to provide pics of dipstick a little later.
Thanks
The H shape fuel rail is on the 4.2 engine.Just read though the PDFs provided and seems as if they must be for the Speed 6 as my engine top only has the one rail with AJP8 on it. Not a "H" as indicated in the diagrams.
Am I correct in presuming the Oil Pressure Switch is in the same place as indicated by the PDFs ( to the side of the rear coil)? I'm removing it before ordering a new one as two different switch examples provided on the TVR Parts web site.
I will attempt to provide pics of dipstick a little later.
Thanks
4.5 had the single fuel rail.
Yes that is where the oil switch is located.
Oil level should be at least max line on the dipstick. I wouldn't bother changing the oil if I were you. It looks clean and is not dangerously overfilled (there is a gap around where the hole is, this might indicate the real level?). If it's running ok I would leave it be. They do use a little oil anyway. Just mho
FarmyardPants said:
Oil level should be at least max line on the dipstick. I wouldn't bother changing the oil if I were you. It looks clean and is not dangerously overfilled (there is a gap around where the hole is, this might indicate the real level?). If it's running ok I would leave it be. They do use a little oil anyway. Just mho
Completely agree.Would get yourself to a TVR meet, or at least to your nearest friendly Cerb owner, so you can compare notes with a known good example (counts me out!)
Thanks for the heads up re the wash wipe and fuel pressure release.
I will change the Oil Pressure Switch and see if this stops the oil light from coming on. i had to pop out for 5 mins today and the light is now on during idle and does not go off until about 1800 revs. Oil pressure gauge rock solid at 40. I didn't push it to see if it changed as wanted this sorted first.
Looks like I will need to change my profile from a 4.2 to a 4.5!! I presumed it was a 4.2 from the engine number having "4200" in the middle of it plus the registration check said 4.2! Having now checked the ECU (has 4.5 on it), the service records (all stating 4.5) and finally the single rail as pinpointed earlier it is def a 4.5. What a bonus to find your car is better than originally thought! Just shows how an impulse buy can catch you out!
Fingers crossed the OPS sorts out the oil light.
I will change the Oil Pressure Switch and see if this stops the oil light from coming on. i had to pop out for 5 mins today and the light is now on during idle and does not go off until about 1800 revs. Oil pressure gauge rock solid at 40. I didn't push it to see if it changed as wanted this sorted first.
Looks like I will need to change my profile from a 4.2 to a 4.5!! I presumed it was a 4.2 from the engine number having "4200" in the middle of it plus the registration check said 4.2! Having now checked the ECU (has 4.5 on it), the service records (all stating 4.5) and finally the single rail as pinpointed earlier it is def a 4.5. What a bonus to find your car is better than originally thought! Just shows how an impulse buy can catch you out!
Fingers crossed the OPS sorts out the oil light.
4.2 or 4.5?
Perhaps your car's original engine is no more, and it was replaced with a late 4.2 (which would be 4.5 displacement) and the induction was transferred. That would perhaps explain the 4.2 engine number and the 4.5 intake manifold.
40 psi warm idle to 70 psi at 3k plus would be very reassuring.
Perhaps your car's original engine is no more, and it was replaced with a late 4.2 (which would be 4.5 displacement) and the induction was transferred. That would perhaps explain the 4.2 engine number and the 4.5 intake manifold.
40 psi warm idle to 70 psi at 3k plus would be very reassuring.
Intermotor 50500
£4 inc p&p
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/351473286222
Keep checking the AltParts thread for other ways to avoid TVR tax.
£4 inc p&p
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/351473286222
Keep checking the AltParts thread for other ways to avoid TVR tax.
Hi All,
The badge on the back states 4.5.
Car is a 1998 and states 4.2 on the official MOT documents and website plus the '4200' in the engine number. However, all the receipts from TVR services (of which there are stacks), label it as a 4.5! I recall reading somewhere there is a crossover at the factory and this maybe where the confusion lies. The single fuel rail, as pointed out, indicates more though as others have pointed out. In its history there is also a brake upgrade along with Nitron shocks to change things more! I will post pics later if anyone interested?
I will try to meet up at a TVR get together in Herts and obviously compare (great advice that). Although I think the second owner has abused this one compared to the first who definitely looked after it. The more I look the more I find needs doing to get this car back to 'normal'! Little aesthetic and cosmetic things can wait though as I definitely bought this to drive!
Ordered the OP Switch and will be changing asap.
I have worked on a few cars in my time but never anything as obviously sourced from different places as this! I'm up to the challenge though! Thanks for the ebay link for the part - much appreciated.
The badge on the back states 4.5.
Car is a 1998 and states 4.2 on the official MOT documents and website plus the '4200' in the engine number. However, all the receipts from TVR services (of which there are stacks), label it as a 4.5! I recall reading somewhere there is a crossover at the factory and this maybe where the confusion lies. The single fuel rail, as pointed out, indicates more though as others have pointed out. In its history there is also a brake upgrade along with Nitron shocks to change things more! I will post pics later if anyone interested?
I will try to meet up at a TVR get together in Herts and obviously compare (great advice that). Although I think the second owner has abused this one compared to the first who definitely looked after it. The more I look the more I find needs doing to get this car back to 'normal'! Little aesthetic and cosmetic things can wait though as I definitely bought this to drive!
Ordered the OP Switch and will be changing asap.
I have worked on a few cars in my time but never anything as obviously sourced from different places as this! I'm up to the challenge though! Thanks for the ebay link for the part - much appreciated.
Just tried to locate and hopefully remove the Oil Pressure Switch. I undid a few cable ties holding various pipes blocking my view towards the rear coil. Where do you move the coil to? (Back, offside, near side)! I could not see anything remotely like an electrical connector to the rear of the block. The access is terrible!
Could someone please point me in the right direction? I have included a photo for reference.
Thanks
Could someone please point me in the right direction? I have included a photo for reference.
Thanks
Perhaps you're being optimistic if you think you'll actually be able to move the coil pack. If no one's been there recently you could well find the the rivnuts simply spin such that the entire structure has to be removed by cutting off the bolt heads off with a dremel. None of which is practical with the fuel rail in place.
However, you have a high mileage car, so there is a fair chance that work has been done recently and everything will come apart easily.
This is what the area looks like with everything out of the way, you can see both the pickup for the pressure gauge and immediately behind it the pressure switch without the cable connected.
However, you have a high mileage car, so there is a fair chance that work has been done recently and everything will come apart easily.
This is what the area looks like with everything out of the way, you can see both the pickup for the pressure gauge and immediately behind it the pressure switch without the cable connected.
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