Removing 4.5 injection rail - help needed!

Removing 4.5 injection rail - help needed!

Author
Discussion

Wolvesboy

Original Poster:

597 posts

141 months

Friday 12th February 2016
quotequote all
Hi All,
In process of exchanging Oil Pressure Switch on 4.5. Have to move rail as coil pack bolts spinning.
I cannot see how I can undo the 4 Allen key bolts holding the inj. rail in place. If they were normal bolts could get to them from the side. BUT they are Allen key bolts and can only undo from top. I cannot get an Allen key anywhere near close enough to undo them.
Any ideas please?
Both photos highlight the bolts in the middle of photo.



Cheers.

GT6k

859 posts

162 months

Friday 12th February 2016
quotequote all
I feel your pain, I had to do this on mine and had the same problem. First advice (from Jools) is to put the socket on a drill or impact wrench and spin it up. Often this will cause the nut to weld itself back to the plate (worked on 2 of mine). After that I dremeled the remaining couple which were a pain but it worked.

If you are interested I have a spare new mounting plate as I ordered one but decided instead to make one myself with the nuts welded on so they would never ever ever spin again.

And I didn't have to take the throttle bodies off (which is what I think you mean).

Edited by GT6k on Friday 12th February 18:40

Supateg

744 posts

142 months

Friday 12th February 2016
quotequote all
You will find you need a comprehensive
Socket drive 'Allen' or hex kit, preferably ball
End drive types and a selection of extensions
And uj's when attempting engine jobs on a cerb.

The depth of knowledge from the super people on here will
Will save you time and money....


Rufus Roughcut

535 posts

175 months

Friday 12th February 2016
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Wolvesboy, I've replied to your Mail teacher

Wolvesboy

Original Poster:

597 posts

141 months

Friday 12th February 2016
quotequote all
Thanks for the quick replies - makes sense now! I was so fazed by the unreachable 4 corner bolts I didn't think about "stubby" Allen keys and completely forgot about my ball end joint kit!
Heaven only knows how anyone can access the Oil Pressure a Switch without removing the injection rail - that is something I would like to see on YouTube. I know I would drop half of the screws into the depths of the engine and would end up cursing everything under the sun!
I am enlightened again and will not let the cerb beat me! The injection rail and throttle body will come off! I have to make sure the 3 quid OPS part fits properly!
Cheers.

GT6k

859 posts

162 months

Saturday 13th February 2016
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I still don't see why you need to remove the throttle bodies, the fuel rail is just held by the straps (end bolts at red arrows) and the coil packs are fairly evident (mounting bolt blue arrow). Its more the pipework at the rear of the engine that gets in the way of getting under the coil pack plate to get at the nuts.





And the tops of Lidl curry paste jars make great caps for the throttle bodies




Wolvesboy

Original Poster:

597 posts

141 months

Saturday 13th February 2016
quotequote all
You are right - in moving the fuel rail I was able to access the coils and the see the Oil Pressure Switch.


Problem now is getting a 25mm/inch socket to get the in situ OPS off. All of my sockets only go to 24!
Now trying to remove plate beneath the coils to access the OPS with a spanner rather than socket and 2 bolts stuck - one has snapped my ball end Allen key in it also.
Turning into one of those jobs where more jobs are caused by the initial one. May need to grind the bolts off. Fingers crossed the access to the OPS is enough to get an amended spanner in.
Cheers

pmessling

2,284 posts

203 months

Saturday 13th February 2016
quotequote all
There is no need to remove the fuel rail to remove the coils or there plate. Just asking for a pinched injector o ring. Make sure you replace them before putting it back together.

It's worth the extra effort don't want a fireball.

Jubag

113 posts

116 months

Saturday 13th February 2016
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pmessling said:
Just asking for a pinched injector o ring.
There is nothing worse!

Wolvesboy

Original Poster:

597 posts

141 months

Sunday 14th February 2016
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Ended up grinding and cutting a 25mm (1 inch) spanner to finally undo the OPS. See picture for details.



No washer made it harder to budge.

I smiled as it has been a PITA. Then tried the Intermotor 50500 replacement only to find it does not fit as the thread is too small.



In a bit of a quandary as not sure if my engine is 4.2 or 4.5 still as in that period where everything was going on at TVR. Since found out that my ECU also has 4.5 written on the face plate? So will have to spend some time at motor factors ensuring I get the correct part.

ukkid35

6,175 posts

173 months

Sunday 14th February 2016
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It appears that your car has been subject to a number of PO modifications. That is a little unfair I agree, but hopefully you'll be able to power through...

ukkid35

6,175 posts

173 months

Monday 15th February 2016
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While you are there change the 100Amp Midi fuse and clean the contacts.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262238938575

When either the fuse breaks down, or the contacts deteriorate, the electrics start to suffer, often the rev counter bounces, and eventually if the fuse fails the car will stop.

ukkid35

6,175 posts

173 months

Monday 15th February 2016
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Also consider replacing the coil packs, they're only £14 each inc p&p.

Wolvesboy

Original Poster:

597 posts

141 months

Monday 15th February 2016
quotequote all
You are right - in moving the fuel rail I was able to access the coils and the see the Oil Pressure Switch.


Problem now is getting a 25mm/inch socket to get the in situ OPS off. All of my sockets only go to 24!
Now trying to remove plate beneath the coils to access the OPS with a spanner rather than socket and 2 bolts stuck - one has snapped my ball end Allen key in it also.
Turning into one of those jobs where more jobs are caused by the initial one. May need to grind the bolts off. Fingers crossed the access to the OPS is enough to get an amended spanner in.
Cheers

Wolvesboy

Original Poster:

597 posts

141 months

Saturday 20th February 2016
quotequote all
Hi All,
Oil Pressure Switch done and everything working fine. Finally purchased the correct item from Bespoke in Ware and great service, advice and help? Bought injector o rings in case but the DOT 4 as lubrication worked a treat. I managed to manipulate the injection rail back in without any dramas and having checked each one upon start up all seems fine. Just waiting for some half decent weather now.
Onto next job. Of sorting out leaking doors/ seals then heater as only blows cold.
Great to receive many suggestions and help and I really appreciated it - hopefully I can help someone else along the way!
Cheers.

gruffalo

7,521 posts

226 months

Sunday 21st February 2016
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Door seals a very quick and simple job, litterly 10 minutes a side.

ukkid35

6,175 posts

173 months

Sunday 21st February 2016
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Glad to hear it's all back together and working.

It doesn't look like your OPS is the standard part. Can only assume the threads were stripped at some point.


Wolvesboy

Original Poster:

597 posts

141 months

Monday 22nd February 2016
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Thanks fellas - the OPS works a treat and all as should be.

Onto the seals and heater in between blasting around in the coolest car ever! Picking the kids up from school is now fun!