Speedo and Rev counter repairs...Options?
Discussion
Before we begin, the 100A fuse is fine.
My rev counter has always been fine with constant or slightly progressive revs but a little bouncy when accelerating hard. Not enough to warrant a must fix this urgency but something to do eventually.
When my milometer stopped at 60k miles, I tried reversing, leaving it and a high speed blast before finally trying the thump it method. I thumped it, it stopped working altogether.
As I have now got 2 malfunctioning gauges, I suppose I really should do something about it, but what are my options?
1. Use (not so)Speedy cables for a repair.
2. Remove them and try fix them myself.
3. Replace the whole dash with some LCD futuristic panel.
on point 1, Anyone else with a good reputation for a repair?
On point 2, I might have just dislodged something with the thump? Is there anything in the unit particularly fragile?
On point 3, If such a thing exists, has anyone gone down this route and who did you use?
My rev counter has always been fine with constant or slightly progressive revs but a little bouncy when accelerating hard. Not enough to warrant a must fix this urgency but something to do eventually.
When my milometer stopped at 60k miles, I tried reversing, leaving it and a high speed blast before finally trying the thump it method. I thumped it, it stopped working altogether.
As I have now got 2 malfunctioning gauges, I suppose I really should do something about it, but what are my options?
1. Use (not so)Speedy cables for a repair.
2. Remove them and try fix them myself.
3. Replace the whole dash with some LCD futuristic panel.
on point 1, Anyone else with a good reputation for a repair?
On point 2, I might have just dislodged something with the thump? Is there anything in the unit particularly fragile?
On point 3, If such a thing exists, has anyone gone down this route and who did you use?
Edited by Byff on Wednesday 29th June 16:44
Have no experience on the repair options, but it did take over 200 miles of driving before my odometer started working again after I went through 30,000 miles. I tried tapping it (probably didn't thump it hard enough!), but it just started working on it's own accord. Put it down to the usual TVR fairies
Rev counter has always bounced around a lot but can't say that i look at it much, too much scenery flashing past my eyes💨
Rev counter has always bounced around a lot but can't say that i look at it much, too much scenery flashing past my eyes💨
If you have a standard ecu, the (my) android app has all the information you need..
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
https://youtu.be/7CDQRcokDD0
Probably not a permenant replacement, but would be fine while you waited for Speedy Cables to fix yours?
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
https://youtu.be/7CDQRcokDD0
Probably not a permenant replacement, but would be fine while you waited for Speedy Cables to fix yours?
te, so I'll be pulling the dash apart for a bit tinkering.ETB Instruments do a one week turn around for £50 for failed odometers (mileometers). Just sent mine there today - didn't fancy a 6 week wait.
https://www.etbinstruments.com/
https://www.etbinstruments.com/
One of the Porsche guys used JDO Instruments - 48 hour turn around
http://www.jdo1.com/
http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?p=1214250#1214250
Just to give even more options!
http://www.jdo1.com/
http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?p=1214250#1214250
Just to give even more options!
MoonMonkey said:
Have no experience on the repair options, but it did take over 200 miles of driving before my odometer started working again after I went through 30,000 miles. I tried tapping it (probably didn't thump it hard enough!), but it just started working on it's own accord. Put it down to the usual TVR fairies
Rev counter has always bounced around a lot but can't say that i look at it much, too much scenery flashing past my eyes??
Odometer sticks when trying to turn over several numbers at once - they all do that sir.Rev counter has always bounced around a lot but can't say that i look at it much, too much scenery flashing past my eyes??
Byker28i said:
MoonMonkey said:
Have no experience on the repair options, but it did take over 200 miles of driving before my odometer started working again after I went through 30,000 miles. I tried tapping it (probably didn't thump it hard enough!), but it just started working on it's own accord. Put it down to the usual TVR fairies
Rev counter has always bounced around a lot but can't say that i look at it much, too much scenery flashing past my eyes??
Odometer sticks when trying to turn over several numbers at once - they all do that sir.Rev counter has always bounced around a lot but can't say that i look at it much, too much scenery flashing past my eyes??
Both my Cerb rev counters have bounced around. I put it down to the fact there's no resistance behind the needle if you get my gist (if I rapped the underside of my first Cerb's dash from underneath, the needle would hop). Speedo, you could try pressing the trip button in continuously, that's helped one of mine in the past.
robsco said:
Both my Cerb rev counters have bounced around. I put it down to the fact there's no resistance behind the needle if you get my gist (if I rapped the underside of my first Cerb's dash from underneath, the needle would hop). Speedo, you could try pressing the trip button in continuously, that's helped one of mine in the past.
The Big Fuse doesn't have to have failed, they seem to break down over time.Replacing the 'working' fuse for a new one fixed the bouncy rev counter for me.
The speedo and rev counter was returned - 3 months and just over £200 for them both to be refurbished.
Speedo is still not functioning so I guess it must be the speed sensor.
Before I jack the car up and bend my arm into three articulated joints, can the speedo input at the gauge be checked with a multimeter or is it an oscilloscope job?
Speedo is still not functioning so I guess it must be the speed sensor.
Before I jack the car up and bend my arm into three articulated joints, can the speedo input at the gauge be checked with a multimeter or is it an oscilloscope job?
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