Mcloed twin plate clutch, how to fit?

[phazed]

It seems like a good time to bite the bullet and make the car a little more pleasurable to drive.

I just want to make sure that I'm getting everything right at this stage.

First, apparently I have to have approximately 10 mm machined from the rear of the thrust bearing carrier. Is this correct?
I assume this is so the carrier can go further back towards the gearbox to allow for the deeper clutch plates?



I already have a forged aluminium flywheel as supplied by V8 Tuner and Abbey sports cars. Can I use the twin plate clutch with this flywheel?
I already use a single plate Mcloed 10 1/2 inch clutch so I was wondering if the new twin plate clutch mounting holes will line up with my existing?
I also have the ARP flywheel to clutch mounting bolts.

Considering the clutch release arm is moving in a slightly different arc, will the existing clutch slave cylinder work correctly?

Last thing, can someone confirm which is the exact clutch that I need? Possibly part number would be good?

Thanks in advance guys.

[Hoofa]

Ok talk to real steel , they supplied my clutch and another others , I cannot rember part numbers but they will know

I would wait till you get the new clutch and clutch cover to see if bolts line up or not, I had mine redrilled end and rebalanced as I went from a crappy bag of poo helix to the twin plate

Use arp clutch bolts for the flywheel, the cap heads for the clutch cover did need a bit machining off the heads, also use thread locker

The clutch mechanism only needs the bearing carrier modding ,clutch slave and fork movement is ok and won't need any mods, unless you feel it's necessary to overcomplicate and fit a hydraulic throw out bearing but I think you will like the feel of this as its so light, I assembled the clutch and offered up the bearing carrier to measure and removed enough so the bearing is not resting on the fingers

Edited by Hoofa on Wednesday 27th July 20:08

Edited by Hoofa on Wednesday 27th July 20:11

[DangerousDerek]

Numpty question.
If you machine 10mm off the back of the carrier si it cab sit further back then does this not make the other end of the arm put a pre load into the slave cylinder. Do we need to shorten the pushrod to compensate?

[phazed]

That is a good question Derek.

Well, my shopping trip to Real Steel did not materialise. I tried to join the M25 at Junction 10, (A3) but the traffic was crap and at a standstill so will try again mid morning tomorrow.

Don't you just love the M25 and the overcrowded south-east of England!

[Hoofa]

Yes I think you modify the slave pushrod, I cannot remember as it was a few years ago , Mac will know

[macdeb]

IIRC I machined the 'front' of the carrier, no need then to modify pushrod. [I'll check notes] Also, I wouldn't guess/assume anything, just take measurements when you have the clutch assembly using steel rule and straight edge on bench and work from bellhousing face. Remember to leave some to allow for clutch wear. As for part number I can't help as I fitted a TKO600 box at same time but it's a Mcleod 'street' twin, good for 800hp apparently and as light as my astravan.

[Pupp]

Having looked at all this in some detail recently, even if ultimately dumping the pre-historic, sorry tried and tested, fork and fulcrum set-up, I'd say the machining for extra height needs to come off the bearing side... will just need stepping back by an appropriate amount (but allow for future wear as Mac describes)..... if you take off the back (clearly a simpler task but what's needed is hardly difficult), it will inevitably affect geometry of the release action - there lies a whole load of pain!

[phazed]

Bearing side.

I am not with you? Please explain further?

[Pupp]

The face of the carrier block that the bearing fits onto... the bearing needs to sit further away from the flywheel by whatever the extra height of the clutch is, Capisce?

[phazed]

I do!

S'pose I will have to eject myself from my chair and remove it from the bell housing and investigate!

I assume it is a press fit in the carrier?

[Pupp]

The bearing inner race goes onto a top hat profile spigot - the carrier block is the rim - may need a new bearing by the time you extract the old one

[phazed]

Another job for the weekend then.

Thanks for the info.

[macdeb]

Pupp said:

The bearing inner race goes onto a top hat profile spigot - the carrier block is the rim - may need a new bearing by the time you extract the old one

Wot I wus tryin ter say front/bearing side

Edited by macdeb on Friday 29th July 20:49

Edited by macdeb on Friday 29th July 20:50

[phazed]

Got it!

Picked up the clutch today!

Plenty to do before fitting it..........

[macdeb]

Gary [pupp] raises good point on bearing, seems folly not to change at same time. Also a thing to bear in mind is that the clutch 'can' be a little harsher on gearbox being unsprung and noises can be induced if you labour in high gear. Good move though nonetheless.

[Pupp]

macdeb said:

Gary (pupp) raises good point...

Bound to happen occasionally if I keep posting!

[macdeb]

Pupp said:

macdeb said:

Gary (pupp) raises good point...

Bound to happen occasionally if I keep posting!

law of averages

[phazed]

Of course, I can't fit the clutch and measure what needs to be removed from the thrust bearing carrier until I remove the block from the engine stand, I can't do that yet as I'm building the engine!

I can't carry on with building the engine until the new camshaft and lifters arrive.

Oh well, everything takes longer than you think!

[SILICONEKID345HP]

Whats involved fitting the MGB SERVO inline ?

[phazed]

Not that much Daz .

A bit of vacuum pipe and brake line plumbing.

Location of the servo.