Fuel Filter connector replacements identification?
Discussion
TwinKam said:
Does the hard-line have a swaged end? If not and it's just straight pipe, that's not a safe way to connect to it as, despite the pretty red (dummy) surround, it's not a mechanically sound connection. There are 'olive' type fittings available for this purpose.
I will double check with the garage but I believe the olive was removed to allow the old fuel pipe connector to be removed so will potentially then need to be replaced (although both the mechanic and I tugged on the pipe incredibly hard to test it was connected firmly)I have also already built the same fuel pipe but using AN6 connectors at either end which I believe should be fine as that is a designed hardline connector?
AN-6 Straight MALE to 5/16 8mm HARDLINE TUBE Compression Pipe Fitting Adapter
aide said:
It might be safer to put the fire extinguisher behind the passenger seat.
I put my extinguisher behind the passenger seat and it's easily reachable.
I've got mine under my knees too. Obviously, it's in a purpose-designed bracket with a full encircling clamp released by an over-centre clip as used in rally cars etc. I don't think I could reach around to the rear if I was trapped/ delayed for whatever reason in exiting the car... and it's more easily reachable from outside the car too.I put my extinguisher behind the passenger seat and it's easily reachable.
Apologies for bumping an old thread, but my question is relevant.
Has anyone successfully removed the Fuel Filter to Hardline pipe, without the car being on a ramp?
I've removed the filter, and I can't even feel the other end of the hose from lying under the car :-/
Am I going to have to suck it up and have the car trailored to a garage?
Has anyone successfully removed the Fuel Filter to Hardline pipe, without the car being on a ramp?
I've removed the filter, and I can't even feel the other end of the hose from lying under the car :-/
Am I going to have to suck it up and have the car trailored to a garage?
Replaced my fuel filter a few days ago - from underneath I couldn't see anything except the fuel pump and the hoses disappearing up into the chassis. Upon removing the passenger rear wheel, it all became clear.
I thought I saw the connection to the hard pipe at the very top of the wheel arch.
From inside the cabin, the hard pipe is visible upon removing the helmet-holder - it runs along the centre tunnel and then does a 90 degree turn to go behind the rear passenger side seat back - this lined up with where I saw the output pipe from the filter run to.
Sorry I'm not more help.
The one I couldn't find/see was the return pipe (that starts at the back of the fuel rail) - I could see where the hose ran up into the boot, but not the other end where it connects to the hard pipe.
I thought I saw the connection to the hard pipe at the very top of the wheel arch.
From inside the cabin, the hard pipe is visible upon removing the helmet-holder - it runs along the centre tunnel and then does a 90 degree turn to go behind the rear passenger side seat back - this lined up with where I saw the output pipe from the filter run to.
Sorry I'm not more help.
The one I couldn't find/see was the return pipe (that starts at the back of the fuel rail) - I could see where the hose ran up into the boot, but not the other end where it connects to the hard pipe.
DuncanM, a 1996 Cerbera will have rubber fuel lines, all the way front to back, strapped to the chassis rails at the top of the transmission tunnel, unless a previous owner has modified it in the course of previous pipe replacements. If you get the car up on axle stands and get the exhaust and exhaust heatshield off you should be able to see the complete line from pump to filter to engine. I replaced the middle section of mine with copper tubing.
CerbWill said:
I replaced the middle section of mine with copper tubing.
Some people warn that copper can fracture due to the vibration from injectorsHowever that hasn't stopped me using copper to replace a section in my other car that was originally steel and rusts like hell - far more dangerous in my opinion
Apparently Kunifer, copper/nickel alloy, is the best option
I've changed mine and it was a **** of a job. I couldn't get that connection to the hard lines apart and the end of the hard line was quite rotten. So I chopped the end off the pipe and then took the interior apart to gently tweak the hard line to give me some more length through the body. I don't recall having any trouble getting the fitting. I assume they came from my local hydraulics place and I think they are 1/4inch of some sort.
I hated every part of that job. The access is poor! I also had to do it twice as the first lot of fuel hose I used lasted less than 6 months. You need 100% ethanol proof hose, which is expensive but cheaper than a crispy Cerb.
I hated every part of that job. The access is poor! I also had to do it twice as the first lot of fuel hose I used lasted less than 6 months. You need 100% ethanol proof hose, which is expensive but cheaper than a crispy Cerb.
CerbWill said:
DuncanM, a 1996 Cerbera will have rubber fuel lines, all the way front to back, strapped to the chassis rails at the top of the transmission tunnel, unless a previous owner has modified it in the course of previous pipe replacements. If you get the car up on axle stands and get the exhaust and exhaust heatshield off you should be able to see the complete line from pump to filter to engine. I replaced the middle section of mine with copper tubing.
Thank you so much for this, I was going mad thinking I was missing something inside the car!Crikey, rubber front to back then, I'll have a look when I'm off work :-/.
Thanks for the other replies too, this forum is the best
Gassing Station | Cerbera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff