Discussion
ukkid35 said:
The Joolz remap includes a change to the temp that the fans kick in. However I decided not to have that done when he remapped mine, believing that it could possibly mask an underlying problem.
I think that was the wrong decision, so I will ask for that option next time I see Joolz.
Hi Paul!I think that was the wrong decision, so I will ask for that option next time I see Joolz.
You could perhaps post your EEPROM to Joolz, to have the cooling mod added, as he remapped your car and will have your custom re-map on file.
(I agree you were right to not opt for it at the time!)
Aide
Hello!
Thank you all for your inputs.
Hi Gary, how are you?
Finally I managed to buy a jack last week and have just worked a bit on the car. In fact the bleeding screw on the radiator is not right at the top of the rad, so if you let the car horizontal, you can't bleed it fully. So I did it and some more air came out of the radiator. Coolant level was a bit low, so went to my mechanic to get some and he said advised me to put only water in because if there is too much coolant in the mix, it may not circulate properly. I did so and then bled both rail, there was no air. Then had the cat to warm and everything looks fine. I can't take the car out as I have to change a tyre. I will have to wait till Wednesday... Can't wait!
Julien
Thank you all for your inputs.
Hi Gary, how are you?
Finally I managed to buy a jack last week and have just worked a bit on the car. In fact the bleeding screw on the radiator is not right at the top of the rad, so if you let the car horizontal, you can't bleed it fully. So I did it and some more air came out of the radiator. Coolant level was a bit low, so went to my mechanic to get some and he said advised me to put only water in because if there is too much coolant in the mix, it may not circulate properly. I did so and then bled both rail, there was no air. Then had the cat to warm and everything looks fine. I can't take the car out as I have to change a tyre. I will have to wait till Wednesday... Can't wait!
Julien
Jooles81 said:
Hello!
Thank you all for your inputs.
Hi Gary, how are you?
Finally I managed to buy a jack last week and have just worked a bit on the car. In fact the bleeding screw on the radiator is not right at the top of the rad, so if you let the car horizontal, you can't bleed it fully. So I did it and some more air came out of the radiator. Coolant level was a bit low, so went to my mechanic to get some and he said advised me to put only water in because if there is too much coolant in the mix, it may not circulate properly. I did so and then bled both rail, there was no air. Then had the cat to warm and everything looks fine. I can't take the car out as I have to change a tyre. I will have to wait till Wednesday... Can't wait!
Julien
Hi Julien Thank you all for your inputs.
Hi Gary, how are you?
Finally I managed to buy a jack last week and have just worked a bit on the car. In fact the bleeding screw on the radiator is not right at the top of the rad, so if you let the car horizontal, you can't bleed it fully. So I did it and some more air came out of the radiator. Coolant level was a bit low, so went to my mechanic to get some and he said advised me to put only water in because if there is too much coolant in the mix, it may not circulate properly. I did so and then bled both rail, there was no air. Then had the cat to warm and everything looks fine. I can't take the car out as I have to change a tyre. I will have to wait till Wednesday... Can't wait!
Julien
I am fine thanks, hope it works ok, Cerbera are known for being hard to bleed just keep doing it till there is no air in and don't over think problems she ran fine for years till the rad game leaked causing air to be sucked in hence Ali rad, I am fine and enjoying my new TVR a Wedge with a Griff 500 engine in, just come back from a 4 day trip to France and she ran faultless
One thought I had yesterday. There's two fans one on the nearside is larger and shifts more air than the one of the offside. Mine come on possibly at different time, with or without the aircon on.
Would there be any advantage to fitting a second larger fan in place of the smaller one?
Would there be any advantage to fitting a second larger fan in place of the smaller one?
I've done that after seeing it done on some Cerbs that have been exported. Last year's road trip saw ambient temps of 37-39 and my Cerb wouldn't have taken much more when stood in traffic as temps were in the high 90s so I added a 2nd big fan for an extra few hundred to 1 thousand cfm at low speeds/stationary for some extra headroom. Fans should come on at 93 and 95 ish.
Hello!
Not happy today. I've taken the car out for a little drive in town to change the tyre (which I didn't manage to do)and the car got close to 100 degrees C when in the lift to get I the garage and struggled to get down to 96 when stationary in the garage. Ambient temp around 15, air temp displayed by the car : 24... I've added some more water (and removed a bit of coolant) because the concentration was a bit high, but I don't have many illusions. Honestly I don't know what to do : I think the coolant is bled correctly, fans are working and the thermostat is new. So I get back to the original question : would a poor quality coolant have a bad effect? Could it be the new (raceproved rebuildable) thermostat be guilty?
Thank you for your help...
Julien
Not happy today. I've taken the car out for a little drive in town to change the tyre (which I didn't manage to do)and the car got close to 100 degrees C when in the lift to get I the garage and struggled to get down to 96 when stationary in the garage. Ambient temp around 15, air temp displayed by the car : 24... I've added some more water (and removed a bit of coolant) because the concentration was a bit high, but I don't have many illusions. Honestly I don't know what to do : I think the coolant is bled correctly, fans are working and the thermostat is new. So I get back to the original question : would a poor quality coolant have a bad effect? Could it be the new (raceproved rebuildable) thermostat be guilty?
Thank you for your help...
Julien
Edited by Jooles81 on Saturday 8th April 19:45
Julian
If fans are coming on it might be possible the temp gauge is reading wrong given you false information, I think you bought a diagnostic programme it might be worth plugging it in and see when the fans kick in and check on the laptop what temperature they are kicking in and check gauge on in the car what it says might be as simple as that i just a thought but definitely put it on diagnostic to get true reading and if fans are coming in at 95 then it will go up in temp before it comes down cerbera do run hot or it could be a sensor gone
If fans are coming on it might be possible the temp gauge is reading wrong given you false information, I think you bought a diagnostic programme it might be worth plugging it in and see when the fans kick in and check on the laptop what temperature they are kicking in and check gauge on in the car what it says might be as simple as that i just a thought but definitely put it on diagnostic to get true reading and if fans are coming in at 95 then it will go up in temp before it comes down cerbera do run hot or it could be a sensor gone
Hello,
thank you for your inputs. I put a bit more water in the coolant yesterday, and bled once more the cooling system : there was again some air in the radiator. Got the car out to log some data as Aide initially advised ( and which I dismissed, probably a mistake) and it was better today. I think I'll keep on bleeding the cooling system till nothing gets out. Obviously it's not properly bled, and it will take some time to do so. Ayway, I have 2 logs to show.
The whole log of this morning :
The last part getting in the garage with 2 cooling cycles (the parts that worries me)
The car is not over-heating. It's just slow to get the temps down and I'm afraid it will over-heat when it gets hotter.
Just thinking about it, I must have old logs I can comapre those with. I'll have a look and report back.
Julien
thank you for your inputs. I put a bit more water in the coolant yesterday, and bled once more the cooling system : there was again some air in the radiator. Got the car out to log some data as Aide initially advised ( and which I dismissed, probably a mistake) and it was better today. I think I'll keep on bleeding the cooling system till nothing gets out. Obviously it's not properly bled, and it will take some time to do so. Ayway, I have 2 logs to show.
The whole log of this morning :
The last part getting in the garage with 2 cooling cycles (the parts that worries me)
The car is not over-heating. It's just slow to get the temps down and I'm afraid it will over-heat when it gets hotter.
Just thinking about it, I must have old logs I can comapre those with. I'll have a look and report back.
Julien
Unfortunately, it looks like I'm not paranoid :
Cooling from 96 to 86 deg. used to take 200 'time units' at 37deg. ambient temp. Today's log shows 600-700 time units to cool from 96 to 86 at 25deg. air temp (15 real temp, I guess the intake is warmed up by the engine heat)
Will keep bleeding the car, maybe change the coolant, but there is definately something wrong here.
Julien
Cooling from 96 to 86 deg. used to take 200 'time units' at 37deg. ambient temp. Today's log shows 600-700 time units to cool from 96 to 86 at 25deg. air temp (15 real temp, I guess the intake is warmed up by the engine heat)
Will keep bleeding the car, maybe change the coolant, but there is definately something wrong here.
Julien
Hello!
Aide, thank you. I'll be able to make some tables from time. But more so, thank you for your first post and RS-AJP, in fact logging the data helps me to put some data and numbers on my gut feelings, and this turn out being very helpful.
So, yesterday I bled once more the car (removing once more some air from the radiator, don't know when it will stop... I'll do so everytime I want to take the car out till there is nothing I guess) and remove some coolant to add 1 liter (!) water to the mix. I've read a bit, and it appears that glycol has less cooling power than water. So more glycol in the mix means less cooling power. I had my mechanic check for the coolant last week and he told me that ''everything is fine, it is at -40degC, it's ok till -30, should not come from this''. Well, I don't care it to resist to -30 in the summer, I want it to cool my engine when it's +40!!! So I decided to lower the coolant content and I think I was right :
It's less good than before changing the thermostat change, but it's better than before at around 400 units to cool down. It was definately better without long stops at 90deg +. So I guess bleeding and lowering the coolant content in the right way. Moreover, today was hotter with almost 30degC air temp at the ECU / almost 20deg ambient temp.
This is definately interesting for me as, first, it looks like I'm on the right way, and it's also confirming my first gut feeling that something was wrong with the coolant. Moreover, it's always fun to learn something!
Hope this will be helpful for someone else.
Julien
Aide, thank you. I'll be able to make some tables from time. But more so, thank you for your first post and RS-AJP, in fact logging the data helps me to put some data and numbers on my gut feelings, and this turn out being very helpful.
So, yesterday I bled once more the car (removing once more some air from the radiator, don't know when it will stop... I'll do so everytime I want to take the car out till there is nothing I guess) and remove some coolant to add 1 liter (!) water to the mix. I've read a bit, and it appears that glycol has less cooling power than water. So more glycol in the mix means less cooling power. I had my mechanic check for the coolant last week and he told me that ''everything is fine, it is at -40degC, it's ok till -30, should not come from this''. Well, I don't care it to resist to -30 in the summer, I want it to cool my engine when it's +40!!! So I decided to lower the coolant content and I think I was right :
It's less good than before changing the thermostat change, but it's better than before at around 400 units to cool down. It was definately better without long stops at 90deg +. So I guess bleeding and lowering the coolant content in the right way. Moreover, today was hotter with almost 30degC air temp at the ECU / almost 20deg ambient temp.
This is definately interesting for me as, first, it looks like I'm on the right way, and it's also confirming my first gut feeling that something was wrong with the coolant. Moreover, it's always fun to learn something!
Hope this will be helpful for someone else.
Julien
Hello!
me again... I went for a spririted drive today, and the car, though not over-heating, was once more on the hot side. Today was 20degC. Here is the graph :
Basically, the car needs 150s (the scale is in seconds this time) to decrease from 96deg. to 88. Sounds like a lot to me. Can someone make a log after a spirited drive to check how long it takes to cool down...
While driving the temp was a constant 70-75degC.
Thanks a lot in advance.
Julien
me again... I went for a spririted drive today, and the car, though not over-heating, was once more on the hot side. Today was 20degC. Here is the graph :
Basically, the car needs 150s (the scale is in seconds this time) to decrease from 96deg. to 88. Sounds like a lot to me. Can someone make a log after a spirited drive to check how long it takes to cool down...
While driving the temp was a constant 70-75degC.
Thanks a lot in advance.
Julien
Looks OK to me. But if you are convinced that it is taking longer to cool than before...............
How old is the radiator, and has the car been laid up for some months over the winter?
I made a lot of cooling mods, but the one thing that made it more responsive to the fan was a radiator recore.
How old is the radiator, and has the car been laid up for some months over the winter?
I made a lot of cooling mods, but the one thing that made it more responsive to the fan was a radiator recore.
Hello gents!
I'm still struggling with my cooling system...
Last week I measured the temp of the coolant in the radiator and it was - 45, so almost pure antifreeze. Being optimistic, I've let the car yesterday at the garage for a coolant change (flush, new water and coolant at 20% mix and a bottle water wetter). On the way back home, I had to stop twice because of steam escaping the expansion tank, with the cat at around 90 degC. When opening carefully the cap, fluid came out, leading me to think there was too much fluid in the tank and it was leveling.
This morning, expansion tank empty...
Had other plans today, so had a look only this evening. Filled the tank, checked the bleeding, everything looks fine when engine not running (nice fluid flow without bubbles at radiator and both ramps). When engine running, driver side ramp is OK, but the passenger side give only bubbles like this :
https://youtu.be/C_7BSJI6kn0
When stopping the car, I'm back to a nice flow :
https://youtu.be/635JHM_7yxw
What do you guys think? I have not the possibility to give it to a specialist as I'm in Bulgaria. Should I let the engine run till there are no bubbles? Is it normal? Should I let it like this?
I must sound stupid, sorry if this is the case, but I don't want to f
k the car up...
Thanks for your help!
Julien
I'm still struggling with my cooling system...
Last week I measured the temp of the coolant in the radiator and it was - 45, so almost pure antifreeze. Being optimistic, I've let the car yesterday at the garage for a coolant change (flush, new water and coolant at 20% mix and a bottle water wetter). On the way back home, I had to stop twice because of steam escaping the expansion tank, with the cat at around 90 degC. When opening carefully the cap, fluid came out, leading me to think there was too much fluid in the tank and it was leveling.
This morning, expansion tank empty...
Had other plans today, so had a look only this evening. Filled the tank, checked the bleeding, everything looks fine when engine not running (nice fluid flow without bubbles at radiator and both ramps). When engine running, driver side ramp is OK, but the passenger side give only bubbles like this :
https://youtu.be/C_7BSJI6kn0
When stopping the car, I'm back to a nice flow :
https://youtu.be/635JHM_7yxw
What do you guys think? I have not the possibility to give it to a specialist as I'm in Bulgaria. Should I let the engine run till there are no bubbles? Is it normal? Should I let it like this?
I must sound stupid, sorry if this is the case, but I don't want to f
k the car up... Thanks for your help!
Julien
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