Galvanized Chassis

[slideways]

has anyone used this stuff? http://www.zinga-uk.com/?gclid=CIXsro2f65UCFRaIlAo...

[clive f]

we had a sales rep trying to sell us this stuff at work a couple of years ago, supposed to be used by the russian navy!!
its a spray paint, and on some samples would scratch off very easily, but could be used for extra protection if you applied to a shot blasted surface, and then applied a zinc phosphate primer before putting your chosen top coat of paint on.

[Rum Runner]

Proper Job !!

[Brummmie]

That was the stuff i paid for two coats of before powder coating. It was a zinc coating that was applied after it was shotted, then powdered over the top.

[Rum Runner]

If not galvanised 2 pack yacht epoxy resin is the way forward(international paints is the best to use).

[Erich Stahler]

slideways said:

has anyone used this stuff? http://www.zinga-uk.com/?gclid=CIXsro2f65UCFRaIlAo...

I think Longbow used Zinga on his chassis?

[longbow]

Yep - that's the stuff I used. I have picked up a few scratches e.g. on the ARBs, that have got right through but not a single spot of rust anywhere after 3 years. Definitely works and is EASY to apply.

[Juddder]

Is anyone still offering this as a service?

Not gifted enough with spanners to attempt it myself but would be more than happy to pay for it if it's not out of the world expensive as the car could probably do with it!

[Fearless]

Hi, I am looking for Malc grn
I am just about to start repairing the chassis on my Cerbera and am considering galavnizing it. I am very impressed by what you have done to yours. On the thread you have kindly offered advice, unfortunatly I am not clever enough to P M you so I hope you find this. My question is can you tell me how many holes, what size and where I will have to drill them to allow the galvanize to enter and drain .
I look forward to hearing from you.

Phil.

[malc_grn]

Hi Phil

I'll send you an e-mail

Regards
Malc

[shoggyraminator]

malc_grn said:

Hi Phil

I'll send you an e-mail

Regards
Malc

Hello Malc, You are going to mail Phil direct with the answer to his question but can I ask that you post it here for other to read as (like myself), I'm sure there are plenty of others who would be interested. Regards.

[Luckyone]

shoggyraminator said:

malc_grn said:

Hi Phil

I'll send you an e-mail

Regards
Malc

Hello Malc, You are going to mail Phil direct with the answer to his question but can I ask that you post it here for other to read as (like myself), I'm sure there are plenty of others who would be interested. Regards.

I was thinking about doing this so looked into it, turns out every just about every single tube in the chassis is sealed so needs at least two 10mm holes drilling in it. Galv with out a doubt offers the best protection but the amount of holes needed put me right off, it probably would be ok, but I just don't like the idea of the chassis being weakened that much. I'm going for new proper powder coat, as long as the tubes stay sealed they arent going to rust from the inside. The ones I repaired I injected cavity wax into then welded the hole up & then quickly turned the chassis over so the wax cold flow over my weld on the inside.

Edit - I just did a quick count, the chassis is made up from about 80 tubes, so you are looking at 160+ 10mm holes drilled in. That put me off, but it may not matter quite a few people have had it done with no problems so far it seems.

Edited by Luckyone on Monday 10th January 22:49

[shoggyraminator]

Luckyone said:

shoggyraminator said:

malc_grn said:

Hi Phil

I'll send you an e-mail

Regards
Malc

Hello Malc, You are going to mail Phil direct with the answer to his question but can I ask that you post it here for other to read as (like myself), I'm sure there are plenty of others who would be interested. Regards.

I was thinking about doing this so looked into it, turns out every just about every single tube in the chassis is sealed so needs at least two 10mm holes drilling in it. Galv with out a doubt offers the best protection but the amount of holes needed put me right off, it probably would be ok, but I just don't like the idea of the chassis being weakened that much. I'm going for new proper powder coat, as long as the tubes stay sealed they arent going to rust from the inside. The ones I repaired I injected cavity wax into then welded the hole up & then quickly turned the chassis over so the wax cold flow over my weld on the inside.

Edit - I just did a quick count, the chassis is made up from about 80 tubes, so you are looking at 160+ 10mm holes drilled in. That put me off, but it may not matter quite a few people have had it done with no problems so far it seems.

Edited by Luckyone on Monday 10th January 22:49

Maybe as a compromise the galvanising of internal tubes could be limited to the ones that always rot. IE the outrigger areas, thus saving on hole drilling and potential weakening of the main chassis.

[JR]

shoggyraminator said:

Luckyone said:

shoggyraminator said:

malc_grn said:

Hi Phil

I'll send you an e-mail

Regards
Malc

Hello Malc, You are going to mail Phil direct with the answer to his question but can I ask that you post it here for other to read as (like myself), I'm sure there are plenty of others who would be interested. Regards.

I was thinking about doing this so looked into it, turns out every just about every single tube in the chassis is sealed so needs at least two 10mm holes drilling in it. Galv with out a doubt offers the best protection but the amount of holes needed put me right off, it probably would be ok, but I just don't like the idea of the chassis being weakened that much. I'm going for new proper powder coat, as long as the tubes stay sealed they arent going to rust from the inside. The ones I repaired I injected cavity wax into then welded the hole up & then quickly turned the chassis over so the wax cold flow over my weld on the inside.

Edit - I just did a quick count, the chassis is made up from about 80 tubes, so you are looking at 160+ 10mm holes drilled in. That put me off, but it may not matter quite a few people have had it done with no problems so far it seems.

Edited by Luckyone on Monday 10th January 22:49

Maybe as a compromise the galvanising of internal tubes could be limited to the ones that always rot. IE the outrigger areas, thus saving on hole drilling and potential weakening of the main chassis.

FWIW, although it would be a PITA, you could weld a small bush onto each hole to compensate for any loss of strength.

[Luckyone]

shoggyraminator said:

Maybe as a compromise the galvanising of internal tubes could be limited to the ones that always rot. IE the outrigger areas, thus saving on hole drilling and potential weakening of the main chassis.

I was hoping that but they won’t do the dipping with out every single tube being drilled, ideally they wanted to do the drilling of the holes them selves. The more / bigger holes you have the better because it can be immersed in to the tank quicker there for greatly reducing the chance of distortion. The holes have to be in just the right place for the angle of the dip (so the molten metal can flow in & the air can get out).
They won’t dip with any sealed tubes because they have to first dip it in baths of acid to clean it up, if there are any tiny pin holes in the welds of any of the tubes a small amount of acid or the cleaning dips after could get into the tube. So when it’s dipped in the mega hot molten metal any fluid that go into the almost sealed tube would instantly boil turning to high pressure gas immediately & could not get back out of the pin hole it got in through quick enough resulting in one very big bang. The Glav bloke said the last time that happened they had 15tones of molten metal sprayed all over their work shop, so he didn’t really want that happening again!

Welding in strengtheners would work I guess but, it would take so long you’d go mad! Not to say the galv process is bad, but personally I’ll just stick with powder coat & rubberised stone chip over the highly exposed areas.

[davidd]

I had my old M Chassis, hot zinc sprayed.. Seemed to do the trick, no holes....

Of course it meant that the inside of the tubes were not treated.

D

[Pete Mac]

Hi Malc

I am planning to get the chassis on my Griffith 500 galvanized next year (see blog under Chimaera):

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

I have been trying to gather as much info as possible and been in touch with the Hot Dip Galvanizers Association and others. The only remaining concern I have is the effect of drilling 10mm holes in the chassis ie. will it weaken to any great extent?

Did you do get any information on this?

Any other tips you can send me, I would much appreciate it.

[ChimpofDarkness]

Pete Mac said:

Hi Malc

I am planning to get the chassis on my Griffith 500 galvanized next year (see blog under Chimaera):

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

I have been trying to gather as much info as possible and been in touch with the Hot Dip Galvanizers Association and others. The only remaining concern I have is the effect of drilling 10mm holes in the chassis ie. will it weaken to any great extent?

Did you do get any information on this?

Any other tips you can send me, I would much appreciate it.

I was talking to a mate of mine the other day who spent years in the Galvanizing trade.

I asked what his method was for plugging the holes.

He said they used tapered aluminium dowel, they would drive these in with a hammer & dress lightly with a grinder to finish.

Kind of an ally rivet if you like, it sounded fine for heavy industrial work but perhaps a bit heavy handed fr your TVR chassis.

It all depends on the size of the venting/draining holes but I would be tempted to use a large RivNut, then fit a stainless allen socket set screw so it sits flush.

[TA14]

ChimpofDarkness said:

He said they used tapered aluminium dowel, they would drive these in with a hammer & dress lightly with a grinder to finish.

Wouldn't that give youa problem with bi-metallic corrosion?

[spudt8]

clive f said:

we had a sales rep trying to sell us this stuff at work a couple of years ago, supposed to be used by the russian navy!!
its a spray paint, and on some samples would scratch off very easily, but could be used for extra protection if you applied to a shot blasted surface, and then applied a zinc phosphate primer before putting your chosen top coat of paint on.

I know its an old thread but people still find it with a search. I had a galvanised car trailer that had rust coming through in places. I just did surface prep with a fine flap wheel on angle grinder then applied Zinga by aerosol. Next day the sample would scratch off as you say. Still I left it and hoped that at least the trailer would not rust whilst not in use and I would try and come up with something else. Well to my delight when I went to use the trailer again some weeks later the Zinga had become really hard - as their sales literature says it should. So if you have time to wait I can recommend this stuff. I used the version with some Alu coloring in it called Zingalu.