A DIY guide to replacing Cerbera rear shocks - with pictures
Discussion
I've just replaced the rear shocks on my car due to one of them leaking.
The tools needed are -
19mm spanners
19mm socket
allen keys
flat screwdriver
mallet
WD-40
wire brush
measuring tape
and a C-spanner for the shocks.
I used AVO shocks but the procedure will be pretty much the same for any suitable make of shock.
This time I managed to take pictures of a job on the Cerb so I can give a half-decent description of what's involved.
First measure and note the ride height at the back of your car (floor to chassis rails) and then secure the front wheels and jack up the car
Then take off the wheel and put an axle stand under the car
The shock is held in place by two bolts, the top one also holds the upper wishbone in place as well
and the lower one just holds the bottom of the shock
Spray the bolts with WD-40 or similar before starting to loosen them.
The bottom bolt can be taken out fully but the top one should only be withdrawn enough to get the shock out but not so far as to allow the wishbone to become loose (this pic shows the bolt shoved back in a bit)
Once the shock is out the spring has to be taken off it.
Firstly loosen the nylon grub-screw that lock the bottom adjustable plate in place
and clean the threads to allow the adjustable plate to turn easier
and then measure the distance up along the shock to the bottom of the adjustable plate (this will make it easier to set the ride height with the new shock)
and then loosen the adjustable plate completely to allow the spring to be removed
Mine didn't need to be compressed with coil spring compressors but use them if required.
Fully extend the new shock
and fit the spring onto it
.
Tighten up the adjustable plate to the same measurement as the old one
and tighten the nylon grub screw
This may need to be loosened later if further ride height adjustment is needed but tighten it now in case you dont need any further adjustment and forget to tighten it later.
Putting the shock back into place is a bit fiddly and it does help to have a second pair of hands but it is possible to manage it on your own with a second trolley jack to help get the lower wishbone to the right level to get the bolts to line up.
The AVO shock have a pivoting bearing in the top and bottom mounts and use two spacers to centre the shock (one spacer each side)
but you may find the shock is still a bit loose even with the spacers.
If you do you may need to shim it with a washer of suitable thickness
Once you have the bolts in and tightened correctly you'll need to set the damping.
On the AVOs this is done by turning a dial on the shock
The easiest way to find out the setting you need is to check the old shock and set the new one the same.
Checking it is done by simply turning the dial on the old shock anti-clockwise and counting the number of "clicks" .
It took me around an hour to do one side on my own and about 45 minutes to do the other side with my son (that's him in the pictures, unfortunately I'm no longer that young looking
) helping me.
The ride height and damping were fine on mine but make sure to check them on yours just in case they need adjustment.
You will get dirty doing this job but can do it with basic hand tools and limited mechanical knowledge.
Enjoy .....
The tools needed are -
19mm spanners
19mm socket
allen keys
flat screwdriver
mallet
WD-40
wire brush
measuring tape
and a C-spanner for the shocks.
I used AVO shocks but the procedure will be pretty much the same for any suitable make of shock.
This time I managed to take pictures of a job on the Cerb so I can give a half-decent description of what's involved.
First measure and note the ride height at the back of your car (floor to chassis rails) and then secure the front wheels and jack up the car
Then take off the wheel and put an axle stand under the car
The shock is held in place by two bolts, the top one also holds the upper wishbone in place as well
and the lower one just holds the bottom of the shock
Spray the bolts with WD-40 or similar before starting to loosen them.
The bottom bolt can be taken out fully but the top one should only be withdrawn enough to get the shock out but not so far as to allow the wishbone to become loose (this pic shows the bolt shoved back in a bit)
Once the shock is out the spring has to be taken off it.
Firstly loosen the nylon grub-screw that lock the bottom adjustable plate in place
and clean the threads to allow the adjustable plate to turn easier
and then measure the distance up along the shock to the bottom of the adjustable plate (this will make it easier to set the ride height with the new shock)
and then loosen the adjustable plate completely to allow the spring to be removed
Mine didn't need to be compressed with coil spring compressors but use them if required.
Fully extend the new shock
and fit the spring onto it
.Tighten up the adjustable plate to the same measurement as the old one
and tighten the nylon grub screw
This may need to be loosened later if further ride height adjustment is needed but tighten it now in case you dont need any further adjustment and forget to tighten it later.
Putting the shock back into place is a bit fiddly and it does help to have a second pair of hands but it is possible to manage it on your own with a second trolley jack to help get the lower wishbone to the right level to get the bolts to line up.
The AVO shock have a pivoting bearing in the top and bottom mounts and use two spacers to centre the shock (one spacer each side)
but you may find the shock is still a bit loose even with the spacers.
If you do you may need to shim it with a washer of suitable thickness
Once you have the bolts in and tightened correctly you'll need to set the damping.
On the AVOs this is done by turning a dial on the shock
The easiest way to find out the setting you need is to check the old shock and set the new one the same.
Checking it is done by simply turning the dial on the old shock anti-clockwise and counting the number of "clicks" .
It took me around an hour to do one side on my own and about 45 minutes to do the other side with my son (that's him in the pictures, unfortunately I'm no longer that young looking
) helping me.The ride height and damping were fine on mine but make sure to check them on yours just in case they need adjustment.
You will get dirty doing this job but can do it with basic hand tools and limited mechanical knowledge.
Enjoy .....
Excellent arrive - this the kind of thing we need to see more of, here or on the TVRCC site.
One minor point - you missed the bit about "you might need to cut through all the bolts with an angle grinder, if they are seized in the bush because you didn't grease them when you put them on"... Slowed me down on my S-series, just a bit!
One minor point - you missed the bit about "you might need to cut through all the bolts with an angle grinder, if they are seized in the bush because you didn't grease them when you put them on"... Slowed me down on my S-series, just a bit!
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