Door/window control box
Discussion
Looks like im going to have to bite the bullet and get a replacement box, after i thought id solved my issue its returned and my 'fault finding' method may have caused it to get worse?
Scenario is the drivers window will not do anything twice, ie you press either open button, window drops to where it wants, you shut the door, said window raises to where it wants. I have proved the door reed switch and the window switch, cleaned up all the connectors etc, popping a couple of fuses on my mission. This has now reulted in the passenger door not opening, the window will drop but no clicking from the solenoid, off either button, so my last straw idea is a new box, unless somebody has another idea? all greatly received! All the fuses have been checked. If you reset the box by disconnecting it (the car also has a kill switch) the drivers door may work once then not again.
As an aside the passenger mirror also doesnt work, probably seperate....maybe not.
Scenario is the drivers window will not do anything twice, ie you press either open button, window drops to where it wants, you shut the door, said window raises to where it wants. I have proved the door reed switch and the window switch, cleaned up all the connectors etc, popping a couple of fuses on my mission. This has now reulted in the passenger door not opening, the window will drop but no clicking from the solenoid, off either button, so my last straw idea is a new box, unless somebody has another idea? all greatly received! All the fuses have been checked. If you reset the box by disconnecting it (the car also has a kill switch) the drivers door may work once then not again.
As an aside the passenger mirror also doesnt work, probably seperate....maybe not.
Pursyluv said:
Sorry, slightly hijacking the thread my passenger mirror didn't work when i got the car in Dec 09 and the drivers one has packed up since, any suggestions for a remedy would be gratefully received.
Behind the drivers door panel theres a mirror box like the ones in the boot, they can get wet from the water running down the inside of the door, also check connections behind both door cards and fuses obviously....now get off me thread 
I have just had both my door ECU's repaired at a very reasonable cost )approx £45 each). Contact Paul Smith http://pselectronicsolutions.co.uk/index.html
A good way to fault find this problem is find a fellow cerb owner with windows and doors in working order, and plug your window control box into there cerb.
If your problems transfer over to the other cerb you know for certain its your control box, if they dont you know your cars wiring is at fault.
I had no end of issues with my windows and doors and it was the wiring, my control box was fine.
If your problems transfer over to the other cerb you know for certain its your control box, if they dont you know your cars wiring is at fault.
I had no end of issues with my windows and doors and it was the wiring, my control box was fine.
When I had problems with my drivers side door window I had to get a multimeter on the wires at the front of the car, as well as on the wires on the connector for the control box. This way I could see that what was happening at the switch/sensor/motor was also happening going into the control box, and then coming out the control box too. Using this method I could relatively quickly work out that there was a break in the wiring, and eventually traced it down to a break in the wiring where the loom went from the door into the body. Though given your job I'm probably teaching you to suck eggs!
Out of interest does this happen with the door open and closed?
It does sound like a problem with either the reed switch or control box though.
Out of interest does this happen with the door open and closed?
It does sound like a problem with either the reed switch or control box though.
I can trace it through and have proved the drivers reed switch and window microswitch but the window just has a mind of its own and will only return to closed probably once out of twenty times. Resetting the box seems to make no difference.
The passenger door worked before but since i blew a fuse its stopped, obviously the fuse has been replaced and all the others checked. The window will now drop each time the button is pressed but the door will not open from inside or out. Im having another look later, if anybody would lend me 10 mins of their time to swap the boxes over id be very grateful!
The passenger door worked before but since i blew a fuse its stopped, obviously the fuse has been replaced and all the others checked. The window will now drop each time the button is pressed but the door will not open from inside or out. Im having another look later, if anybody would lend me 10 mins of their time to swap the boxes over id be very grateful!
Made some progress today, the passenger door and window now work perfectly, there was a gap on a track in board two of the control box, i resoldered across two posts and hey presto, possibly caused when the fuse popped? maybe.
I have also recrimped and cleaned up all of the connections behind both door panels, i now have operable mirrors and mirror heaters too!
The drivers door window still has a mind of its own but when you reset the box via the killswitch the window will close fully and operate properly once only......i can live with that for a while
I had a quote off two breakers for a new box at £250 each
Thats what made me find the problem i think
I have also recrimped and cleaned up all of the connections behind both door panels, i now have operable mirrors and mirror heaters too!
The drivers door window still has a mind of its own but when you reset the box via the killswitch the window will close fully and operate properly once only......i can live with that for a while
I had a quote off two breakers for a new box at £250 each
Thats what made me find the problem i think
All sorted and no £250 box required!
Turned out to be voltage drop across bad connections, i worked through the circuit from the battery through the control box to the window motor itself with some high grade contact cleaner from work, originally had only 9Volt at the motor, now have a good 12Volt. The window is much faster and it returns perfectly every time, jobsagoodun. Even though i thought i had cleaned and sorted all the connections the contact spray is top stuff. Hope this helps a few out!
Just a quick thanks to Paul at pselectronicsolutions.co.uk. Top bloke.
ETA links to contact cleaner:
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/0405133.html
http://www.arrowchem.com/arrowchem/web.nsf/dc/BA66...
Turned out to be voltage drop across bad connections, i worked through the circuit from the battery through the control box to the window motor itself with some high grade contact cleaner from work, originally had only 9Volt at the motor, now have a good 12Volt. The window is much faster and it returns perfectly every time, jobsagoodun. Even though i thought i had cleaned and sorted all the connections the contact spray is top stuff. Hope this helps a few out!
Just a quick thanks to Paul at pselectronicsolutions.co.uk. Top bloke.
ETA links to contact cleaner:
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/0405133.html
http://www.arrowchem.com/arrowchem/web.nsf/dc/BA66...
Edited by Onzlouk on Tuesday 2nd November 17:35
Hi all, very new to this as just purchase 4.2 1996.
I have very slow drivers door window. Door card off this weekend and found only 6V at the motor connector on the down and only 4v on the up.
I was going to runs new earth to the battery, but reading this thread, it looks like i need to check out the control box
Where is this control box for the windows?
I have very slow drivers door window. Door card off this weekend and found only 6V at the motor connector on the down and only 4v on the up.
I was going to runs new earth to the battery, but reading this thread, it looks like i need to check out the control box
Where is this control box for the windows?
TVTrev said:
Hi all, very new to this as just purchase 4.2 1996.
I have very slow drivers door window. Door card off this weekend and found only 6V at the motor connector on the down and only 4v on the up.
I was going to runs new earth to the battery, but reading this thread, it looks like i need to check out the control box
Where is this control box for the windows?
Just in case you're still looking for it...I have very slow drivers door window. Door card off this weekend and found only 6V at the motor connector on the down and only 4v on the up.
I was going to runs new earth to the battery, but reading this thread, it looks like i need to check out the control box
Where is this control box for the windows?
The control box is with many others on top of the fuel tank in the boot. Hidden by a flap held in place by velcro.
Cheers
Rob
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