Coolant recommandations?
Discussion
Running a little hot in traffic (95) so thought topping up the coolant with some fresh stuff would be a good idea.
Read the manual - it very helpfully just says "coolant" - and reading through the archives people talk about "red coolant" and "blue coolant" but no obvious brands/products for me to go and buy.
Anyone got some good recommendations?
Many thanks!!
Read the manual - it very helpfully just says "coolant" - and reading through the archives people talk about "red coolant" and "blue coolant" but no obvious brands/products for me to go and buy.
Anyone got some good recommendations?
Many thanks!!
Go to Halfords, get their Advanced Formula stuff - should say on it that it is
This stuff: http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/...
This stuff: http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/...
jammy_basturd said:
Go to Halfords, get their Advanced Formula stuff - should say on it that it is
This stuff: http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/...
Perfect - many thanks!!This stuff: http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/...
Personally I use the Red OAT coolant. Better protection for Aluminium and longer life. Does have some self healing properties too due to the way it congeals when dried out.
Make sure you use a 50:50 mix and also try and use distilled water as it does not have all the muck of usual water in it.
Just make sure you drain all the old stuff as some OAT coolant can cause silicate drop out of any remaining silicate based coolant in the system.
Make sure you use a 50:50 mix and also try and use distilled water as it does not have all the muck of usual water in it.
Just make sure you drain all the old stuff as some OAT coolant can cause silicate drop out of any remaining silicate based coolant in the system.
ridds said:
Personally I use the Red OAT coolant. Better protection for Aluminium and longer life. Does have some self healing properties too due to the way it congeals when dried out.
Make sure you use a 50:50 mix and also try and use distilled water as it does not have all the muck of usual water in it.
Just make sure you drain all the old stuff as some OAT coolant can cause silicate drop out of any remaining silicate based coolant in the system.
Yup, this is exactly as I do, Red OAT (as per my link), with distilled water (or battery top up whatever as Halfords calls it - 5L for < £4). I go with more of a 60:40 mix though.Make sure you use a 50:50 mix and also try and use distilled water as it does not have all the muck of usual water in it.
Just make sure you drain all the old stuff as some OAT coolant can cause silicate drop out of any remaining silicate based coolant in the system.
jammy_basturd said:
Yup, this is exactly as I do, Red OAT (as per my link), with distilled water (or battery top up whatever as Halfords calls it - 5L for < £4). I go with more of a 60:40 mix though.
and for those of us who don't know anything about Coolant (me!) I did some research and for reference:OAT = Organic Acid Technology
Reference below:
There are nominally three different types of antifreeze available in the market place: OAT, Universal & Hybrid.
RED - OAT: Organic Acid Technology antifreeze contains an additive package of corrosion inhibitors, lubricants and buffers – this means there’s a product life expectancy of five years between changes. Motaquip OAT is red.
BLUE – UNIVERSAL: Universal antifreeze does not have such a comprehensive additives package and consequently is only recommended for a lifespan of two years. Motaquip Universal is blue.
GREEN – HYBRID: Hybrid is exactly as the name implies – a combination of the features of universal & OAT Antifreeze. It is typically green in colour and is considered better than universal but inferior to OAT antifreeze. As only a limited number of vehicles specify this variety, and OAT antifreeze can do the job better, Motaquip do not offer a hybrid antifreeze.
Learn something new everyday
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I was going to start a new thread on this, but thought I'd add to this as there is already some good info.
When I put the engine back in after the rebuild I did a little checking on what was best to put back in as I knew my cooling system was totally empty & clean. I was going to go for the Evens waterless coolant, but when I checked the quantity the cerb needs I was already having second thoughts, then when I asked the guys at merlin motorsport about it they said it still needed changing every two years, so that idea was quickly vetoed!
As I'd never had any over heating issues even with hard track use on hot days & I was fitting a original style new rad I decided to just go for the OAT stuff with a little water wetter for good measure.
However I was just catching up with the Sprint magazine, the December issue (kids take up too much time!). In that there is an article on antifreeze that echoes everything in this thread but also states that OAT is not compatible with yellow metals (copper & brass). I think the bleed valves are made of that, but are probably small enough not to matter & are easily accessible should they need to be changed. Then that new (or re-cored I think it possibly was going from he poor paint finish) rad came to mind along with plastic sided rads I've found fitted to any other modern cars I've changed.
Anyony know what the OE rads are made from? There's no plastic in them, that's for sure...
When I put the engine back in after the rebuild I did a little checking on what was best to put back in as I knew my cooling system was totally empty & clean. I was going to go for the Evens waterless coolant, but when I checked the quantity the cerb needs I was already having second thoughts, then when I asked the guys at merlin motorsport about it they said it still needed changing every two years, so that idea was quickly vetoed!
As I'd never had any over heating issues even with hard track use on hot days & I was fitting a original style new rad I decided to just go for the OAT stuff with a little water wetter for good measure.
However I was just catching up with the Sprint magazine, the December issue (kids take up too much time!). In that there is an article on antifreeze that echoes everything in this thread but also states that OAT is not compatible with yellow metals (copper & brass). I think the bleed valves are made of that, but are probably small enough not to matter & are easily accessible should they need to be changed. Then that new (or re-cored I think it possibly was going from he poor paint finish) rad came to mind along with plastic sided rads I've found fitted to any other modern cars I've changed.
Anyony know what the OE rads are made from? There's no plastic in them, that's for sure...
gruffalo said:
Copper and brass I think.
I have just switched to blue stuff as I have copper head gaskets.
I was afraid of that, I just spotted the other Rad thread & it seems to be suggesting switching to a copper / brass rad would be better, I was hoping that meant the standard one wasn't! I have just switched to blue stuff as I have copper head gaskets.
I have an Ali and plastic rad, been in the car around 10 years I believe, like new inside and always had green antifreeze in it till recently when red was put in, now removed on the recommendation of STR8SIX due to them seeing some have issues with Ali rads and also problems with copper head gaskets.
Luckyone said:
I was afraid of that, I just spotted the other Rad thread & it seems to be suggesting switching to a copper / brass rad would be better, I was hoping that meant the standard one wasn't!
I rang Racetech who I got the rad off a few years ago & they first said it's aluminium as that is all they stock now, I told them it was painted black so they said it would be the original style they used to have which are indeed made mainly from copper & brass. Bugger!
So I'll be draining out a load of hardly used coolant. At least I've got a couple of other cars that need the coolant changing, it should be ok for at least one of them...
gruffalo said:
I have an Ali and plastic rad, been in the car around 10 years I believe, like new inside and always had green antifreeze in it till recently when red was put in, now removed on the recommendation of STR8SIX due to them seeing some have issues with Ali rads and also problems with copper head gaskets.
Copper head gaskets maybe, Ali rads, unlikely as VW, Ford, etc have been using OAT technology for years with Aluminium heat exchangers.Just don't use the new G40 (or 38 etc) as that stuff really does have the potential to knacker things.
Bumping an old topic, actually started by me(!), but has anyone tried Evans waterless coolant in their car rather than the standard water based coolants?
Eurocarparts is recommending it for the Cerbera, and if it has a 180c boiling temperature as reported by the manufacturer than that's pretty amazing with cars like the Cerbera that definitely runs pretty hot
It's expensive but if it works then I'm imagining it will keep the engine happier for longer...
Eurocarparts is recommending it for the Cerbera, and if it has a 180c boiling temperature as reported by the manufacturer than that's pretty amazing with cars like the Cerbera that definitely runs pretty hot
It's expensive but if it works then I'm imagining it will keep the engine happier for longer...
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