3200GT Check Engine Light
Discussion
HI ,
I am pretty new to this great forum and have been reading and taking in all the comments and info - and learning as I go . Question to ask : I have a 3200GT reg'd 10/00 , it is driving wonderfully but the check engine light came on - then it went off for a few days now it's on again. A friend checked with OBD equipment and it shows code: THROTTLE LEARN NOT OK ?????? . The light continues to stay on - and occasionally go off , but car still drives perfectly , anyone shed any light ,
thanks in advance for any help ,
cheers Steve
I am pretty new to this great forum and have been reading and taking in all the comments and info - and learning as I go . Question to ask : I have a 3200GT reg'd 10/00 , it is driving wonderfully but the check engine light came on - then it went off for a few days now it's on again. A friend checked with OBD equipment and it shows code: THROTTLE LEARN NOT OK ?????? . The light continues to stay on - and occasionally go off , but car still drives perfectly , anyone shed any light ,
thanks in advance for any help ,
cheers Steve
You could try the "Throttle Reset Proceedure" Here is a link to a similar thread in February which discusses it.
[url] www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=241980&f=63&h=0&hw=3200gt+throttle+re%2Dset[/url]
[url] www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=241980&f=63&h=0&hw=3200gt+throttle+re%2Dset[/url]
Edited by scobbo on Sunday 16th July 09:48
1) Reset the mechanical zero position
- Put gear lever in neutral
- Switch on ignition (to MAR position) but do NOT start the engine
- Do not touch the throttle pedal for 2 minutes
- Switch off ignition
2) Reset the mechanical Full throttle position
- Put gear lever in neutral
- Switch on ignition (to MAR position) but do NOT start the engine
- Fully depress throttle pedal and hold for 5 seconds
- Release throttle pedal completely
- Switch off ignition
- Put gear lever in neutral
- Switch on ignition (to MAR position) but do NOT start the engine
- Do not touch the throttle pedal for 2 minutes
- Switch off ignition
2) Reset the mechanical Full throttle position
- Put gear lever in neutral
- Switch on ignition (to MAR position) but do NOT start the engine
- Fully depress throttle pedal and hold for 5 seconds
- Release throttle pedal completely
- Switch off ignition
Thanks for your replies , Have tryed the reset to no avail - I think I am doing it correctly but I will try again later . The puzzling thing is there are no symptoms of any problems , the learn bit does as you say appear to point to throttle sync etc ,
thanks again I will let you know what transpires , any other ideas pleae advise .
Cheers
thanks again I will let you know what transpires , any other ideas pleae advise .
Cheers
Steve
You don't say how long you have had the car or whether any other symptoms are present. Whilst the Throttle reset procedure will do no harm and may provide a cure, it is not the "cure all" to every case of a "check engine" warning light - Its original purpose was to provide a manual throttle reset where the pedal had become hypersensitive.
Assuming you are fairly new to the model, when starting the engine and following ignition on, always wait for the idiot lights on the dashboard to extinguish before engaging the starter. This gives the self test procedure time to finish. Not observing this will often provoke a spoof error that is then cleared on the next restart.
Secondly, engine warning errors involving the drive by wire throttle are usually accompanied by a reduction in available power ie so called "limp" mode. This is either interdiction of turbo boost but still drivable or worst case RPM limited to 1,500 which is little more than idle speed. You have not mentioned either but do mention 4 other problems after the car was returned - What were they? They may provide us with a clue.
In the meantime, your car had throttle probs before going in to the workshop and now exhibits "Throttle learning not OK" on a ODB readout. When removing / replacing the throttle body, the workshop would have first isolated the battery. Following replacement, the engine management system would then need to relearn the fuel / ignition mapping using a "self-adaptive" technique. This requires an extended period at idle followed by a gentle drive involving perhaps 30 minutes in total. So if all else fails, isolate the battery for say half an hour, reconnect, start and leave idling without blipping throttle for at least 10/15 minutes. Then go for a gentle drive - Don't be afraid to use revs and gradually build up the power delivery over the next 20 minutes or so.
Hope this helps
What ODB equipment was used? SD2 / SD3 or some other?
You don't say how long you have had the car or whether any other symptoms are present. Whilst the Throttle reset procedure will do no harm and may provide a cure, it is not the "cure all" to every case of a "check engine" warning light - Its original purpose was to provide a manual throttle reset where the pedal had become hypersensitive.
Assuming you are fairly new to the model, when starting the engine and following ignition on, always wait for the idiot lights on the dashboard to extinguish before engaging the starter. This gives the self test procedure time to finish. Not observing this will often provoke a spoof error that is then cleared on the next restart.
Secondly, engine warning errors involving the drive by wire throttle are usually accompanied by a reduction in available power ie so called "limp" mode. This is either interdiction of turbo boost but still drivable or worst case RPM limited to 1,500 which is little more than idle speed. You have not mentioned either but do mention 4 other problems after the car was returned - What were they? They may provide us with a clue.
In the meantime, your car had throttle probs before going in to the workshop and now exhibits "Throttle learning not OK" on a ODB readout. When removing / replacing the throttle body, the workshop would have first isolated the battery. Following replacement, the engine management system would then need to relearn the fuel / ignition mapping using a "self-adaptive" technique. This requires an extended period at idle followed by a gentle drive involving perhaps 30 minutes in total. So if all else fails, isolate the battery for say half an hour, reconnect, start and leave idling without blipping throttle for at least 10/15 minutes. Then go for a gentle drive - Don't be afraid to use revs and gradually build up the power delivery over the next 20 minutes or so.
Hope this helps
What ODB equipment was used? SD2 / SD3 or some other?
Nigelo and all,
cheers for the info , only had car about a month , there are no other symptoms and no other codes ! , car has not gone into main agent yet ( was avoiding as still runs A1 ) , the diagnostic equip was a snap on scanner , I have one of their tech's coming back to me next week to give me more info , will try your suggestions and post back ,
once again thanks
cheers for the info , only had car about a month , there are no other symptoms and no other codes ! , car has not gone into main agent yet ( was avoiding as still runs A1 ) , the diagnostic equip was a snap on scanner , I have one of their tech's coming back to me next week to give me more info , will try your suggestions and post back ,
once again thanks
Nigelo, anybody.
My 3200 went in to 'limp mode' today during some spirited driving whilst accelerating hard in 3rd, (then whilst looking for somewhere to pull off I was overtaken by a very old Volvo, oh the shame
) and then after stopping and restarting all was fine. Is there any common cause for the limp mode to kick in?
All should be well as it has only a couple of days ago come out of a main dealer following a service/belts and clean bill of health!
My 3200 went in to 'limp mode' today during some spirited driving whilst accelerating hard in 3rd, (then whilst looking for somewhere to pull off I was overtaken by a very old Volvo, oh the shame
) and then after stopping and restarting all was fine. Is there any common cause for the limp mode to kick in? All should be well as it has only a couple of days ago come out of a main dealer following a service/belts and clean bill of health!
A small point about OBD, this is a regulation that clearly defines what a manufacturer must show through a general tester. The way it works is very simple, however, you car may store other trouble codes that are not labelled under EOBD regulations, thus not showwing on your OBD tester. I would always recommend getting the codes read from manufacturers tester becuase this will give you more information.
A 4200 has 29 pages on SD2 for storing codes but only a handful of these will appear on an OBD tester.
Hope this helps
A 4200 has 29 pages on SD2 for storing codes but only a handful of these will appear on an OBD tester.
Hope this helps
saintetienne said:
Mazzer - sounds impressive ! ,
did the check engine light accompany this burst of performance ?
as soon as you restarted was the car normal again ?
I have had the light on but performance has been unaltered - strange
did the check engine light accompany this burst of performance ?
as soon as you restarted was the car normal again ?
I have had the light on but performance has been unaltered - strange
As soon as I had stopped and restarted the engine the check engine light went out and the car drove normally for the remainder of the drive. Wierd.
mazzer3.2 said:
saintetienne said:
Mazzer - sounds impressive ! ,
did the check engine light accompany this burst of performance ?
as soon as you restarted was the car normal again ?
I have had the light on but performance has been unaltered - strange
did the check engine light accompany this burst of performance ?
as soon as you restarted was the car normal again ?
I have had the light on but performance has been unaltered - strange
As soon as I had stopped and restarted the engine the check engine light went out and the car drove normally for the remainder of the drive. Wierd.
hey Simon
....a bad workman always blames his tools!!!!
See ya Sunday at 8.15am....
Edited by johnnyboy225 on Monday 17th July 19:11
I had a similar thing to this a few weeks ago, took it into main dealer. They said it was the brake pedal switch (connected to the throttle I believe, in the event of the brake and throttle being depressed at the same time) Apparently it can give a warning if on starting the engine the brake is depressed, after a certain amount of times the computer thinks there is a fault on the switch.
They reset the warning and replaced the switch (120 quid total) and its been fine since.
Just one of the many things the warning light comes on for, I guess?
Only fault in nearly 2 years, can't complain!!!
They reset the warning and replaced the switch (120 quid total) and its been fine since.
Just one of the many things the warning light comes on for, I guess?
Only fault in nearly 2 years, can't complain!!!
These cars don't have a throttle position sensor really, this is because the throttle is controlled by the electronics. More likely to be the throttle potentiometer, which attached to the pedal. These cars do suffer throttle body problems as well, which is very expensive and becomming very hard to get hold of, currently not available from Maserati.
To set the throttle pedal potentiometer is relatively simple.
Switch on the ignition(don't start the car)and wait thirty seconds with the throttle pedal at rest, then slowly push the throttle pedal to reach full throttle - this must take thirty seconds as well. Finally, hold the pedal down for thirty seconds. Release the throttle pedal and switch off the ignition. This procedure is designed to reset the potentiometer.
Try this first and i hope this helps.
To set the throttle pedal potentiometer is relatively simple.
Switch on the ignition(don't start the car)and wait thirty seconds with the throttle pedal at rest, then slowly push the throttle pedal to reach full throttle - this must take thirty seconds as well. Finally, hold the pedal down for thirty seconds. Release the throttle pedal and switch off the ignition. This procedure is designed to reset the potentiometer.
Try this first and i hope this helps.
Hi ,
one of my friends cleared codes , I have since run the car and light has come back on with one code P1221 (P0221) - throttle position sensor/switch B circuit range/performance problem any ideas ? - I am thinking this my be the potentiometer on accelerator pedal or wiring ?
thanks in advance
one of my friends cleared codes , I have since run the car and light has come back on with one code P1221 (P0221) - throttle position sensor/switch B circuit range/performance problem any ideas ? - I am thinking this my be the potentiometer on accelerator pedal or wiring ?
thanks in advance
When I had problems with the throttle petentiometer it used to loose sight of the idle setting and think 3k rpm was 1k rpm. ie it used to tick over at 3k rpm. A reset worked for a while then it would misbehave again, reset, misbehave, reset, misbehave etc,etc with approx 50 - 100 miles between "events". Sent to colchester for a new pentiometer and came back fine, no probs since. Cost for a new, fitted was £582.00, apparently they have dropped in price significantly recently. Used to £900.00 touch!
After reading this thread, my car joined in and the engine management light came on!
It does seem to coincide with harder driving, as others have said.
Mine, like somebody else mentioned, was put down to the brake sensor light which checks if you're depressing the brake and accelerator pedals at the same time. I suppose if you've got a double width right foot this could happen.
So, no charge for a diagnostic and reset at Greypaul Nottingham, the chance to look over a few of their cars while waiting and the only downside was taking 90 mins to do one mile on the A52 due to roadworks with the car thermometer at 33 degrees.
Had a great blast back, though. Even had a blue 3200 (X reg) pull alongside me on the A50 so followed him for about ten miles to give the cars in the left hand lane a treat.
It does seem to coincide with harder driving, as others have said.
Mine, like somebody else mentioned, was put down to the brake sensor light which checks if you're depressing the brake and accelerator pedals at the same time. I suppose if you've got a double width right foot this could happen.
So, no charge for a diagnostic and reset at Greypaul Nottingham, the chance to look over a few of their cars while waiting and the only downside was taking 90 mins to do one mile on the A52 due to roadworks with the car thermometer at 33 degrees.
Had a great blast back, though. Even had a blue 3200 (X reg) pull alongside me on the A50 so followed him for about ten miles to give the cars in the left hand lane a treat.
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