Peugeot 205 1.9 with Kant cam and 38dgas carb
Discussion
And the first results from the rolling road.
The red lines are from one of the first runs with a Capri V6 carb and the Kent cam.
The green ones are after changing to bigger main jets and adjusting the ignition timing.
The blue ones after filling the bottom of the intake ports with JB Weld.
Now we have come to this, after fitting a 1900 crankshaft and rods with 1600 pistons for more compression, and twin 45 webers with 36 mm chokes.
Ignition timing didn't need adjusting, but the main jets were too big at the first run, so it ran way too rich.
Smaller main jets gave an impressive result, 18 horsepower, so time and money well spent i guess.
As you can see there's a dip at 3200 rpm, probably from the wild camshaft, and another little dip at about 4200, that's the one i want to get rid of, next week i'll be fitting 90 mm long trumpets instead of the 45 mm long ones that are fitted now, to get some more torque lower in the rev range.
The long trumpets work! It seems to have more torque.
Also the headgasket blew twice in two weeks :-( the problem was that a 1900 having wet liners and one of them "sank" into the block..
But it is fixed for good now, i put in a 2.0 - 8V from a Citroën Xantia and swapped over the cam and carbs.
Results again! The extra 93 cc's give more torque again!
Time to put the BX on the rollers once more to see what the power and torque is now.
Also the headgasket blew twice in two weeks :-( the problem was that a 1900 having wet liners and one of them "sank" into the block..
But it is fixed for good now, i put in a 2.0 - 8V from a Citroën Xantia and swapped over the cam and carbs.
Results again! The extra 93 cc's give more torque again!
Time to put the BX on the rollers once more to see what the power and torque is now.
Uprate your fuel pump with an electric one and fuel pressure reg I am surprised than manual one is keeping up on full bore 
unusual choice of car but well done and keep up the work 
& lose the external fuel filter the internal standard DCOE ones are more than cable of stopping dirt capable of blocking pilot jets and lots more besides 
unusual choice of car but well done and keep up the work & lose the external fuel filter the internal standard DCOE ones are more than cable of stopping dirt capable of blocking pilot jets and lots more besides Edited by Simon says on Monday 15th October 11:22
Thanks for the reply Simon, the mechanical fuel pump is about to be replaced by a facet electric pump mounted close to the fuel tank, though i'm keeping the external filter, just to be sure there is no dirt going into the carbs, or are you worried about the fact that it is a plastic filter?
It is a quite unusual car for this kind of racing, but it is light with a lot of glassfibre parts already fitted from the factory, long wheelbase, wide track and the hydropneumatic suspension works great, very stable, reliable and cheap!
I'm curious to see what happens on the dyno, the 1900 made 148 bhp and 187 nm @ the wheels, so i hope for close to 160bhp and 200nm now....
It is a quite unusual car for this kind of racing, but it is light with a lot of glassfibre parts already fitted from the factory, long wheelbase, wide track and the hydropneumatic suspension works great, very stable, reliable and cheap!
I'm curious to see what happens on the dyno, the 1900 made 148 bhp and 187 nm @ the wheels, so i hope for close to 160bhp and 200nm now....
Edited by Keesjr on Monday 15th October 20:33
Edited by Keesjr on Monday 15th October 20:35
Keesjr said:
Going to change the crank for a 92 mm stroke from a XUD11 engine, so its going up to 2138cc's (86 x 92) just need to shorten the pistons 3 millimeters on my lathe to prevent them from hitting the cilinderhead, compression will be 12:1, head/cam/carbs will stay the same.
Are you still running a dizzy? I'm too lazy to scroll back up!If so, you'll need the advance curve/ weights altered... There are still some guys who can do that, in the UK but Megajolt or alike would be better
Good luck with it and it's nice to see back to back RR tests with the ports filled!
Yes, i have run the 2138 engine for three rades now, and on the 3rd heat of the last race the big-end bearings gave up.
The engine is now being repaired, crank grinding, bores honed and new pistonrings going in.
Also i'm putting a 2230 engine together (86 x 96) for next year!
My engine shop already suggested to bore it to 88 mm for about 2330 cc's :-)
When my engine is ready, there's also a quaife gearkit and lsd ready to go into the 'box, for nice short steps between the gears, dropping just 1500 rpm between shifts instead of 2500 with the mi-16 gears.
The engine is now being repaired, crank grinding, bores honed and new pistonrings going in.
Also i'm putting a 2230 engine together (86 x 96) for next year!
My engine shop already suggested to bore it to 88 mm for about 2330 cc's :-)
When my engine is ready, there's also a quaife gearkit and lsd ready to go into the 'box, for nice short steps between the gears, dropping just 1500 rpm between shifts instead of 2500 with the mi-16 gears.
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