Bleeding a clutch

Author
Discussion

NiceCupOfTea

Original Poster:

25,289 posts

251 months

Monday 25th June 2012
quotequote all
Chaps, I would appreciate your help and advice.

I've replaced the slave cylinder and hard line due to a leak but I am really struggling to bleed it properly.

My method is (with assistant), depress clutch, open bleed valve, wait for bubbles to stop/piston to get pushed in by clutch actuation lever, close bleed valve, raise clutch. Rinse and repeat (ensuring reservoir doesn't run dry).

This seemed to be working well, but what seems to be happening now is that when I open the valve, mostly fluid is coming out but when the piston has been pushed in lots of little bubbles appear in the pipe attached to the bleed nipple. If left for a minute or so the bubbles slowly work their way down the tube (whether due gravity or pressure from the hydraulics). Bleed nipple is at the top of the slave cylinder. This has been the situation for the last 10-15 cycles of bleeding and I feel like I am just wasting brake fluid and not getting rid of any air. Either way, little or no air is coming out in the initial release of pressure when the bleed valve is opened.

Clutch is weighty but maybe spongy and clearly isn't disengaging the clutch as I can't select any gears with the engine running.

What am I doing wrong? confused

jt racing

561 posts

174 months

Monday 25th June 2012
quotequote all
With my mr2 a few years back I did what you've been doing for hours. No joy.
In the end I rigged up the vacuum pump I use for oil, and did it that way.
So might be your best bet to get one of the bleeder kits. Cheap enough now I think.

stevieturbo

17,260 posts

247 months

Monday 25th June 2012
quotequote all
pump several times, full pedal strokes.

hold down, release nipple until air/fluid is ejected and tighten

repeat as necessary

Often you need to pump the pedal a few times in between. Just doing repeated single strokes and bleed doesnt allow the fluid/air to settle really.

Although if you've driven the car in between bleedings, that should have pushed any remaining air to a place where it would bleed out next time you tried.


Le TVR

3,092 posts

251 months

Monday 25th June 2012
quotequote all
stevieturbo said:
pump several times, full pedal strokes.
This is the key. I would reckon on 4 - 6 pumps of the pedal. You should feel the pedal get harder too.

mywifeshusband

595 posts

198 months

Monday 25th June 2012
quotequote all
Use a pressure bleeder (Gunson). On some cars (Including Saab 9000 in your profile) this is the only way for success.

DaveL485

2,758 posts

197 months

Monday 25th June 2012
quotequote all
I do a lot of old Renault hydraulic clutches and Pressure bleeding is by far the best way (IMO)


Justin Cyder

12,624 posts

149 months

Monday 25th June 2012
quotequote all
What car? On sone BMW's and by extension I suppose other cars, the slave cylinder has to be removed from the gearbox & inverted before bleeding to ensure that air trapped in the cylinder can rise to the bleed nipple then pass out of the cylinder when the nipple is released. Might be best to google for others who've done the same on your car.

On our old Z3, I used a mastic gun frame to hold the slave cylinder piston in and inverted whilst pressure bleeding with a Gunson kit. It was spot on, but I nicked the idea of the Z3 forum, so there's usually someone brighter who's gone before & thought it through.

davepoth

29,395 posts

199 months

Tuesday 26th June 2012
quotequote all
If the fluid is coming through clear into your jam jar, throw it back into the master cylinder reservoir again, saves wasting it.

stevesingo

4,854 posts

222 months

Tuesday 26th June 2012
quotequote all
Connect a tube from the nearest caliper bleed nipple to the slave cylinder nipple.

Open both nipples and pump the brakes until you stop getting air in the reservoir.

Tighten nipples.

I did this recently on my E30M3 as the nipple points down on the slave cylinder.

Steve

michael-o1z5e

23 posts

107 months

Sunday 19th July 2015
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Know it's an old thread but Ive had a bit of trouble bleeding the clutch this week, with a long line with high points, everything I found online didn't work ( didn't try vacuum ) I found removing Union and placing the pipe in the full reservoir, removing the pin from the slave and pumping the arm drew out all the air, bleed as normal after of needed.

Hope this helps with any future problems.

Mgtf / mgf

NiceCupOfTea

Original Poster:

25,289 posts

251 months

Sunday 19th July 2015
quotequote all
Just to update this, I bought an eezibleed and had it bled in 5 mins, been fine ever since!

It was a TVR S series by the way.