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opieoilman

Original Poster:

3,087 posts

119 months

[news] 
Monday 13th September 2004 quote quote all
moleamol said:
Make: Ford
Model: Mk1 Capri 3000GT XLR
Year: 1971
Engine size and type: 3 litre V6
Mileage: 74,000

Same as last time I asked *cough*


Dont worry mate, havent forgoten you. I spoke to a technical collegue of mine for this one as my records dont go back that far. It depends on what you want to use. Originally it would have been a mineral multigrade, if you want to continue using one go for around a 10w-40 grade making sure it is a good quality one. The other option is full synthetic, older engines tend not to like the modern thin synthetics however if you go for a thick one like a 15w-50 you will have no problems. He has recomended a particlular synthetic oil for your car, feel free to e-mail me and I will forward onto what the oil is and what costs.

Cheers

Guy.

opieoilman

Original Poster:

3,087 posts

119 months

[news] 
Monday 13th September 2004 quote quote all
annodomini2 said:

name said:
It's an austin mini, with an 90,000 mile 1986 MG Metro 1275 cc engine (naturally aspirated) - engine is totally standard, and I intend to re-build it to standard or very close to standard spec in the near future and was wondering what you would recommend?



I thought mini/metro a series engines didn't like fully synthetic, well not the engine but the gearbox as they use the same oil, I'd check with cooperman on the mini forum he's the real expert


I dealt with the british mini club before on this one. Maybe I should have been more precise, if you are going to use a full synthetic, due to the gearbox it does need to be a thick one around the 15w-50 grade, in addition a normal PAO/Hydrocracked synthetic would not benefit that much and it would ideally need to ba an ester based oil as this has the load properties required and esters make great geabox oils.

Cheers

Guy.

darreni

1,804 posts

153 months

[news] 
Monday 13th September 2004 quote quote all
I have a 97 TVR Cerbera 4.2 V8
I had a full factory engine rebuild last november, the car has run on:

0-1500 miles: mineral oil (factory filled)
1500- 5500 miles: Shell Helix 10-40 semi synthetic

I'm now about to change to a full synthetic & was looking at using Shell helix ultra (think its 5-40)

Any help & suggestions welcomed.

Darren.

opieoilman

Original Poster:

3,087 posts

119 months

[news] 
Monday 13th September 2004 quote quote all
darreni said:
I have a 97 TVR Cerbera 4.2 V8
I had a full factory engine rebuild last november, the car has run on:

0-1500 miles: mineral oil (factory filled)
1500- 5500 miles: Shell Helix 10-40 semi synthetic

I'm now about to change to a full synthetic & was looking at using Shell helix ultra (think its 5-40)

Any help & suggestions welcomed.

Darren.


Darren,

That sounds about right. When you switch to a full synthetic go for 5w-40 grade or 10w-50 if the car gets driven hard and track days etc.

As for the Shell helix, personally in my opinion you can do much better in terms of quality buy choosing a much more reputable brand.

E-mail me and I will forward on to you some options of top quality full synthetics.

Cheers

Guy.

tuttle

3,426 posts

120 months

[news] 
Monday 13th September 2004 quote quote all
Many thanks Guy-as usual good food for thought.
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MGBV8

160 posts

139 months

[news] 
Monday 13th September 2004 quote quote all
Is there a problem changing from long term use of Mineral to a synth.

The US are using this product and may be of value on a change

www.auto-rx.com/

Magnatec has esters included in package although % of esters not known

opieoilman

Original Poster:

3,087 posts

119 months

[news] 
Monday 13th September 2004 quote quote all
MGBV8 said:
Is there a problem changing from long term use of Mineral to a synth.

The US are using this product and may be of value on a change

www.auto-rx.com/

Magnatec has esters included in package although % of esters not known


We are unsure of Magnetec, can you be sure there are esters contained? we have approached Castrol only to find that the Magnatec is a closely guarded secret, we found that suspicious. It is on our list of oils to chemically test to see if it is genuinely polar or if it is just and addative.

Cheers

Guy.

MGBV8

160 posts

139 months

[news] 
Monday 13th September 2004 quote quote all
Guy,

Its been released in US and contains a synthetic ester

www.castrol.com.au/products/pdf/Castrol%20Magnatec.pdf


There is not other way to add UMA? so would be against trade description act, but would like to know % ester.
I asume Silkolene as base stock is more than 50%

By the way Auto rx is a Lanolin Ester

opieoilman

Original Poster:

3,087 posts

119 months

[news] 
Tuesday 14th September 2004 quote quote all
MGBV8 said:
Guy,

Its been released in US and contains a synthetic ester

www.castrol.com.au/products/pdf/Castrol%20Magnatec.pdf


There is not other way to add UMA? so would be against trade description act, but would like to know % ester.
I asume Silkolene as base stock is more than 50%

By the way Auto rx is a Lanolin Ester


I went and had a look at the Castrol site and it does not fill me with confidence.

Quote.

Castrol Magantec contains a synthetic ester that is unique to Castrol.

Unquote.

How can this be, with regard to oil esters are pretty much esters, unless they have a modified one and I can not understand why they would do this unless it is a cheap ester of inferior quality. For Castrol to use a genuine ester as used in many oils, the technology is very expensive so in turn that would reflect on the high street price.

Quote.

Utalizes unique molecular attraction UMA to form a lubricating suface.

Unquote.

If they are using ester to achieve the polaraty then surely they are not unique as other oils do this.

We approached Castrol on this not long ago only to discover the UMA and possible ester used was a closely guarded secret. Read into that what you will.

The Auto rx I am sure has its uses however it mainly cleans deposits left buy oils burning at high temps, go for a good shear stable oil with a high flash point and the detergents within the oil will do the rest. It is not some thing I would use.

The ester content of Silkolene I am not allowed to publish however good ester based oils are around 10% ester, the Silkolene ester oils are over double that.

Cheers

Guy.






pistol pete

793 posts

146 months

[news] 
Tuesday 14th September 2004 quote quote all
VW
Golf
1994
1.8L 8 Valve
135,000 miles on the clock
no Mod's
Currently on Magnatec (has been for last 45000 miles)

Do about 20,000 miles a year, approx 70% is at constant 3500-4000rpm on 400 mile trips up and down the M6 stopping only for fuel.


Cheers,

Pete

MGBV8

160 posts

139 months

[news] 
Tuesday 14th September 2004 quote quote all
Auto rx is not a replacement for a good oil but may help in gently cleaning an older engine before using a synth

A few pics

www.rms13.com/imgal/thumbnails.php?album=1

10% is low is this a PAO mix rather than race oil, or is this all you need without going for ultimate performance oil

Castrol and disclosue!

Whats the recommendation for standard MG engines
ABC V8 K & KV6

danhay

5,943 posts

139 months

[news] 
Tuesday 14th September 2004 quote quote all
Thanks for the very comprehensive reply

phil hill

431 posts

159 months

[news] 
Wednesday 15th September 2004 quote quote all
Guy

I'm currently using Silkolene Pro4 15w40 in my 1380 mini, as recommended by the engine builder. I'm pretty sure it's fully synth, but used to be a semi ?? Not sure. Yes it's a bike oil, but I guess the reasoning is bikes share oil with gears too, I do about 5000 miles a year and change it at least annually.

Do you think using a bike oil in this application is ok ?? Are there significant differences in formulation specific to motorcycle vs car applications ??

What do you think about thermal stability ?? I notice my oil pressure drops quite considerably when worked hard i.e. trackdays. The car is fitted with an oil cooler but I can't tell you how hot it gets as I don't have a sensor or gauge !!

Could you recommend any suitable alternatives ?? One of the Mini "gurus" recommends Torco and has recently started to use to Millers. I tried Millers CTV (supposed to have a 'transmission' additive pack), which was fine, but I couldn't get hold of any to top up with when I needed it !! So I reverted to the Silkolene.

It's good to hear additive's debunked again. My person reasoning was always if the major oil co's spend millions of $$$ in research every year, what makes you think a 3.99 can of "stuff" is going to do something better ??

opieoilman

Original Poster:

3,087 posts

119 months

[news] 
Wednesday 15th September 2004 quote quote all
pistol pete said:
VW
Golf
1994
1.8L 8 Valve
135,000 miles on the clock
no Mod's
Currently on Magnatec (has been for last 45000 miles)

Do about 20,000 miles a year, approx 70% is at constant 3500-4000rpm on 400 mile trips up and down the M6 stopping only for fuel.


Cheers,

Pete


The Castrol you are using at the moment is fine, however it is only a mineral multigrade, you should be using around a 10w-40 grade for a mineral oil.

You could move to a semisynthetic again a 10w-40. Or If you wish you can move to a fully synthetic 10w-40 or 5w-40.

There may be no real good reason to move to a full sytnetic due to the mileage and use of the car, however for the small extra cost of moving to a semi synhetic is well worth thinking about.

Cheers

Guy.

opieoilman

Original Poster:

3,087 posts

119 months

[news] 
Wednesday 15th September 2004 quote quote all
phil hill said:
Guy

I'm currently using Silkolene Pro4 15w40 in my 1380 mini, as recommended by the engine builder. I'm pretty sure it's fully synth, but used to be a semi ?? Not sure. Yes it's a bike oil, but I guess the reasoning is bikes share oil with gears too, I do about 5000 miles a year and change it at least annually.

Do you think using a bike oil in this application is ok ?? Are there significant differences in formulation specific to motorcycle vs car applications ??

What do you think about thermal stability ?? I notice my oil pressure drops quite considerably when worked hard i.e. trackdays. The car is fitted with an oil cooler but I can't tell you how hot it gets as I don't have a sensor or gauge !!

Could you recommend any suitable alternatives ?? One of the Mini "gurus" recommends Torco and has recently started to use to Millers. I tried Millers CTV (supposed to have a 'transmission' additive pack), which was fine, but I couldn't get hold of any to top up with when I needed it !! So I reverted to the Silkolene.

It's good to hear additive's debunked again. My person reasoning was always if the major oil co's spend millions of $$$ in research every year, what makes you think a 3.99 can of "stuff" is going to do something better ??


Using the Pro 4 in the Mini actually makes good sense, the Pro 4 has ester in it, this helps with the loads carried on the gear teeth, also motor bike oils contain an addative to help grip against the clutch in a motorbike, so in turn this may help with the gear change, it is ok to use a 4 stroke bike oil in a car but not the other way round as the clutch will slip.

In terms of thermal stabiltiy I am unsure of how the Pro 4 will stand upto that, it should be fine. However consider the Silkolene Pro R 15w-50, this is an ester based car engine oil, basically the 4 wheel equivilent of the Pro 4, this may be better alround than the Pro 4.

Cheers

Guy.

opieoilman

Original Poster:

3,087 posts

119 months

[news] 
Wednesday 15th September 2004 quote quote all
MGBV8 said:
Auto rx is not a replacement for a good oil but may help in gently cleaning an older engine before using a synth

A few pics

www.rms13.com/imgal/thumbnails.php?album=1

10% is low is this a PAO mix rather than race oil, or is this all you need without going for ultimate performance oil

Castrol and disclosue!

Whats the recommendation for standard MG engines
ABC V8 K & KV6


The Rover KV6 series engine, for all year round use a 5w-40 full synthetic or a 10w-40 semi synthetic.

The V8, 10w-50/15w-50 full synthetic, or a 15w-40/15w-50 multigrade mineral oil.

Cheers

Guy.

bilton_d

596 posts

149 months

[news] 
Wednesday 15th September 2004 quote quote all
I use Valvoline VR1 fully synthetic 5w-50 in my 1998 TVR Cerbera .... seems to work well and almost nil consumption ... Any other suggestions?

>> Edited by bilton_d on Wednesday 15th September 13:22

opieoilman

Original Poster:

3,087 posts

119 months

[news] 
Wednesday 15th September 2004 quote quote all
bilton_d said:
I use Valvoline VR1 fully synthetic 5w-50 in my 1998 TVR Cerbera .... seems to work well and almost nil consuption ... Any other suggestions?


Thats fine, only problem is with the grade. A lot of manufacturers are dropping the 5w-50 grade because of the amount of VI improvers needed to hold it together.

As there is such a large gap between viscosities they have to put in tremendous amounts of VI improver to keep it in grade, problem now is it is unstable and more lekely to suffer from thermal break down, the less VI improver needed for the oil the better and this is measured by the Vistosity Index.

It will be fine just check it quite often, and if a move of grade is coming up then if its the V8 go for a 10w-50 or a speed 6 5w-40/10w-50 pending on use.

Cheers

Guy.

MGBV8

160 posts

139 months

[news] 
Wednesday 15th September 2004 quote quote all
Guy,

What UCL do you recommend?

With the older engines 20W/50 was recommended but with newer more stable oils I assume 15/40 now gives same protection and better on start up.

bilton_d

596 posts

149 months

[news] 
Wednesday 15th September 2004 quote quote all
Thanks for that. It's TVR's own V8 thats in it. I use the car daily so wanted something that provided good/better protection for cold start as it can get cold over the winter months etc. I used to run 0w -40 but apprently the 40 grade is too thin when hot for the TVR engines the dealers are using 15w 50 but this used to make the car sound like a bag of spanners on cold morning start ups etc hence the 5W-50.
Thanks again
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