Honda HRV loosing power when warm
Discussion
Hi all, I'm new to this forum. I am looking for some advice. I have recently bought a 2004 Honda HRV Vtec. When it is cold, it runs great, but as soon as it's warm, it is down on power. I haven't got any warning lights up. I can also smell something burning after I've taken it for a run. My thoughts are it could be an O2 sensor or the cat.
I only bought this as a winter run around and don't want to spend a fortune on it, by guessing and changing parts until it's fixed. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
I only bought this as a winter run around and don't want to spend a fortune on it, by guessing and changing parts until it's fixed. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Could be many things.
Some live data, either coolant temp sensor or o2 related info would help.
But the obvious suggestion to avoid changing parts at random, is find a competent mechanic.
Although even that is hard these days....as a lot of them seem to resort to changing parts at random too.
Some live data, either coolant temp sensor or o2 related info would help.
But the obvious suggestion to avoid changing parts at random, is find a competent mechanic.
Although even that is hard these days....as a lot of them seem to resort to changing parts at random too.
Does it mis fire when it's warm? I'm currently working on a BMW that is mis firing after a 5 or 6 mile run, and I have some evidence of one of the coils failing.
However, as has already been mentioned, it's a minefield without some data and further information.
Be happy to have a look at it for you if you're in South wales.
Cheers
However, as has already been mentioned, it's a minefield without some data and further information.
Be happy to have a look at it for you if you're in South wales.
Cheers
stevieturbo said:
Could be many things.
Some live data, either coolant temp sensor or o2 related info would help.
But the obvious suggestion to avoid changing parts at random, is find a competent mechanic.
Although even that is hard these days....as a lot of them seem to resort to changing parts at random too.
<This Some live data, either coolant temp sensor or o2 related info would help.
But the obvious suggestion to avoid changing parts at random, is find a competent mechanic.
Although even that is hard these days....as a lot of them seem to resort to changing parts at random too.
just because it as not thrown the eng check light on don't necessarily mean there are no fault codes stored Ask on this forum for a mechanic near you if you dont have any luck here.
http://www.bba-reman.com/forums/
http://www.bba-reman.com/forums/
It seems the art of diagnosing engine problems now that everything is controlled by "incomprehensible" electronics has died a death - even in here. The basics however remain as valid as they ever did. Compression test then spark and fuel. Very few things can make an engine run worse when it's hot than cold. Almost any ignition problem would manifest as poor starting and warming up before it affected hot running and would almost certainly cause misfires as well as or rather than just a loss of power.
The most likely thing that springs to mind on the fuel side is a faulty coolant sensor telling the ecu the engine is cold when it's actually hot and generating a very rich mixture. To be rich enough to notice as power loss would likely cause terrible fuel consumption and black spark plugs. Surely checking both of those can't be beyond the wit of even a non mechanically minded owner before spending money on garages. Checking the coolant sensor itself is dead easy with an ohm meter too.
However, never forget to think outside the box - or outside the engine in this case. A brake sticking on when it gets hot would seem like a loss of power and perhaps cause your burning smell into the bargain. All easy things to check.
The most likely thing that springs to mind on the fuel side is a faulty coolant sensor telling the ecu the engine is cold when it's actually hot and generating a very rich mixture. To be rich enough to notice as power loss would likely cause terrible fuel consumption and black spark plugs. Surely checking both of those can't be beyond the wit of even a non mechanically minded owner before spending money on garages. Checking the coolant sensor itself is dead easy with an ohm meter too.
However, never forget to think outside the box - or outside the engine in this case. A brake sticking on when it gets hot would seem like a loss of power and perhaps cause your burning smell into the bargain. All easy things to check.
The problem with modern engines and this is where the swapping parts syndrome has come from is that very little is adjustable /repairable . Not to long ago I went to a garage to arrange some MOT work for my employer I was met by a puzzled looking mech /tech who was really pleased to see me , mick can you tell me what these are ? he asked and produced a set of points and a condenser . For the moggie 1000 in the corner ,Iasked , yea ,I thought you might know the urgent reply . To cut along story short I fitted them for him and timed the car up the old school way [dizzy swing ] and went on my way ,afew weeks later I called again ,the mech couldnt get to me fast enough and thrust a tenner in my hand saying thanks alot , but where do you plug the diagnostics in ?,this was not a spotty oick but a guy in his 30ies very experieced but not a clue asto things you have to set or change as routine . The tenner was atip from the owner of the little morris who was impressed with the way it ran after having some starting /running probs , gues what Bloody well kept it
A lot boils down to the idiots teaching the younger generation too.
There was some posts recently on another forum, where it turns out someone who actually teaches some for of diagnostics, was trying to argue with me that a compression test was completely useless and that a leakdown test was far more important. He had no comprehension whatsoever as to how to read compression test numbers.
Seriously...WTF !
If there are clueless people teaching, the younger ones have no chance unless they go out of their way to learn themselves.
There was some posts recently on another forum, where it turns out someone who actually teaches some for of diagnostics, was trying to argue with me that a compression test was completely useless and that a leakdown test was far more important. He had no comprehension whatsoever as to how to read compression test numbers.
Seriously...WTF !
If there are clueless people teaching, the younger ones have no chance unless they go out of their way to learn themselves.
Damned08 said:
What happened to the days when I could sit on the front wheel of my Spitfire and change the plugs and points ! Anyway I've got a Diagnostic Tech coming to the house tomorrow. Spoke to him on the phone earlier and he seemed to know what he was talking about. I'll keep you updated.
Well...if you owned a Spitfire, you could still do that lol, but you bought a modern carDiagnostic guy turned up yesterday. He found no fault codes. What he did find was that the plugs were shot to bits. The gap was about 3mm and the electrodes were badly worn. I didn't even think about looking at these because it was ticking over fine and not misfiring. So we changed these and it's made quite a difference. He also found that the Lambda sensor waveform was a bit erratic. He's recommended that I run it for a few days with the new plugs because it's been running so rich to try and clear it out. If it's still not right after a few days I'll replace the Lambda sensor.
Well at least you're doing your bit to keep other people in gainful employment at your own expense. Very charitable of you and it's your money I suppose. Personally I'd be somewhat embarrassed to have to go straight to paying someone for diagnostics because I couldn't be bothered to check things as basic as the spark plug condition in a car I'd only just bought and didn't know the service history of - especially after I'd just advised you free of charge to at least take the plugs out and have a look.
Maybe one day you'll try dipping the oil too and topping that up or changing it before the poor thing grinds to a halt and you have to ask for more advice on here.
However I fail to see how even completely knackered plugs can cause easily noticeable loss of power but apparently no misfire at all and no starting or cold running problems - so maybe you can't tell the difference between loss of power and misfiring too in which case we've all been wasting our time.
Maybe one day you'll try dipping the oil too and topping that up or changing it before the poor thing grinds to a halt and you have to ask for more advice on here.
However I fail to see how even completely knackered plugs can cause easily noticeable loss of power but apparently no misfire at all and no starting or cold running problems - so maybe you can't tell the difference between loss of power and misfiring too in which case we've all been wasting our time.
Pumaracing thanks for your wise words!!! I don't pretend to know much about cars hence why I posted on here, but if the engine had been poor starting and running rough then yes I would have checked the plugs and leads etc. the diagnostic guy spent around 45 mins of road tests etc and only checked the plugs as a last resort to check the colour. I suppose we can't all be perfect.
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