Discussion
What ecu are you running?
Got the car back and it`s not making boost. I think it`s defaulted to actuator spring.
Does anyone know that if you remove power from an Apexi AVCR does it delete settings? I wouldn`t have thought it would? Anybody any good with these?
The more I think about it the more I think a custom made Garrett cored air to air intercooler and maybe a custom made double/triple pass rad makes sense.
I was meant to be seeing Peter at Spec R Thu arvo but it started peeing it down and a Westfield isn`t the most fun you can have in the rain, so off home it was.
Got the car back and it`s not making boost. I think it`s defaulted to actuator spring.
Does anyone know that if you remove power from an Apexi AVCR does it delete settings? I wouldn`t have thought it would? Anybody any good with these?
The more I think about it the more I think a custom made Garrett cored air to air intercooler and maybe a custom made double/triple pass rad makes sense.
I was meant to be seeing Peter at Spec R Thu arvo but it started peeing it down and a Westfield isn`t the most fun you can have in the rain, so off home it was.
Gone through it today and all settings are still there, have checked solenoid is clicking on ignition, checked all hoses etc but am still only getting 8ish psi. Have checked dump valve for leaks but you can hear the turbo isn`t really spinning up hard.
Was thinking the actuator might be fubar`d, is there anyway I can check? It moves as it`s obviously moving at 8psi, what else can I check?
Was thinking the actuator might be fubar`d, is there anyway I can check? It moves as it`s obviously moving at 8psi, what else can I check?
I`m really beginning to despair of finding any quality of people locally to me and by that I mean within an hour or two.
1st specialist who rebuilt engine sent car back with ECU cable half unplugged leading to cutting out on left hand bends
Turbo oil drain facing upward, i.e, so it wouldn`t drain, que lots of oil smoke.
2nd specialist
Car was sent back with turbo hanger undone, took back and they bodged with a normal washer.
Exhaust leak from manifold
oil leak from turbo oil feed
Non Flouro lined silicon was used for an oil drain leading to a fire at the side of the road.
Car not making boost because after relocating turbo actuator the nipple is hard against bonnet sealing the silicon pipe vacuum feed, this has then fubar`d the map sensor.
Its not like I`m trying to do things on the cheap either the above has cost over £7K.
I`m so disappointed!!
Where are all the decent engineers?
1st specialist who rebuilt engine sent car back with ECU cable half unplugged leading to cutting out on left hand bends
Turbo oil drain facing upward, i.e, so it wouldn`t drain, que lots of oil smoke.
2nd specialist
Car was sent back with turbo hanger undone, took back and they bodged with a normal washer.
Exhaust leak from manifold
oil leak from turbo oil feed
Non Flouro lined silicon was used for an oil drain leading to a fire at the side of the road.
Car not making boost because after relocating turbo actuator the nipple is hard against bonnet sealing the silicon pipe vacuum feed, this has then fubar`d the map sensor.
Its not like I`m trying to do things on the cheap either the above has cost over £7K.
I`m so disappointed!!
Where are all the decent engineers?
Wiltshire.
I have had a bit of a deep and meaningful with my wife who has been incredibly understanding not because of the money but the sheer amount of time I have taken out with this.
I work away a lot and we've just had a newborn that arrived 7 weeks early with all the stress that entails.
I have come to the conclusion I'm going to Norris Motorsport for anything as he just seems to speak sense and knows cosworth yb running gear inside out and has worked on cosworth installations in kit cars before.
Just seems crazy that I have to travel 2.5 hrs every time!
I have had a bit of a deep and meaningful with my wife who has been incredibly understanding not because of the money but the sheer amount of time I have taken out with this.
I work away a lot and we've just had a newborn that arrived 7 weeks early with all the stress that entails.
I have come to the conclusion I'm going to Norris Motorsport for anything as he just seems to speak sense and knows cosworth yb running gear inside out and has worked on cosworth installations in kit cars before.
Just seems crazy that I have to travel 2.5 hrs every time!
Have spoken to Karl who point blank refuses to map the car with the Apexi boost controller. He`s recommending ecu controlled air injectors with a pectel board and 12 position boost control. That`s going to cost 600-700 plus live mapping and no doubt a few other bits and pieces which will no doubt add up to about probably 1.5K. Question is do I just bite the bullet and go aftermarket standalone? I got a quote for a standalone (canems) installed with new engine loom (no cut and splice), dizzyless wasted spark and mapped for 2.1K. It involves ballast resistors so not keen and it`s not widely used on YB motors. Not that they are complicated!
Stevie can I pick your brains a little ref a cold air intake? At the mo I have air filter directly on turbo housing, not great for getting colder intake temps. I know air box / filter design is crucial on NA cars but is it so crucial on boosted cars? I am thinking of just getting a. 102mm 90 degree pipe and cutting a hole in the side of the bonnet so air filter is drawing from outside. Will this cause me problems because of high air pressure at higher speeds or will the turbo be sucking hard enough to counter any issues?
Actually have I got that right? Isn`t the fast air moving over a car body low pressure? In other words an aircraft wing has low pressure on the underside as the air is faster over it creating lift?
Probably not valid in my case and I should just stick the air filter outside of bonnet, it`s just expensive if it doesn`t work after I`ve cut a gert home in it!!
Probably not valid in my case and I should just stick the air filter outside of bonnet, it`s just expensive if it doesn`t work after I`ve cut a gert home in it!!
Fiiinally managed to get some data on intake temps. I drove over to garage this morning to try and get the boost pressure issue sorted and the fact the bonnet wouldn`t shut. ON the way over the max boost was about 8 psi and I couldn`t get the temps over 27 degrees C even after a particularly long straight on the A303 so great!
Got to the garage and they rotated the actuator 180 degrees so no probs with bonnet now and........wait for it.......took the hose off the actuator and the hose off the compressor housing and swapped them round and hey presto the AVCR is working as it should. D`OH!! Oh well at least it`s sorted now.
On the way home I logged inlet temps and even after a period of heat soak in traffic then a prolonged boost period I saw a max of 37 degrees C. I know this is getting towards the upper end of the scale so I'm going to do some more logging. I have a suspicion the current set up is adequate at current boost.I`d completely forgotten how bloody fast this car is at 1.3bar. I took one of the guys out from the garage who isn`t known to be "expressive" and he got out with a massive grin saying it`s the fastest thing he`s ever been in.
Just a live map to do now for this Summer and Bob`s your uncle!
Got to the garage and they rotated the actuator 180 degrees so no probs with bonnet now and........wait for it.......took the hose off the actuator and the hose off the compressor housing and swapped them round and hey presto the AVCR is working as it should. D`OH!! Oh well at least it`s sorted now.
On the way home I logged inlet temps and even after a period of heat soak in traffic then a prolonged boost period I saw a max of 37 degrees C. I know this is getting towards the upper end of the scale so I'm going to do some more logging. I have a suspicion the current set up is adequate at current boost.I`d completely forgotten how bloody fast this car is at 1.3bar. I took one of the guys out from the garage who isn`t known to be "expressive" and he got out with a massive grin saying it`s the fastest thing he`s ever been in.
Just a live map to do now for this Summer and Bob`s your uncle!
Thanks Max.
One thing I might add is that once heat soaked to about 24 degrees C (so not particularly hot) it`s pretty difficult to shed this heat through the use of a rad with an ambient of 15 degrees C. I know there`s reasons why involving temperature gradients and science and stuff...... At this point the inlet temps off boost are actually being heated to 24 degrees C by the chargecooler and in turn you are starting from a higher base when you come on boost.
One thing I might add is that once heat soaked to about 24 degrees C (so not particularly hot) it`s pretty difficult to shed this heat through the use of a rad with an ambient of 15 degrees C. I know there`s reasons why involving temperature gradients and science and stuff...... At this point the inlet temps off boost are actually being heated to 24 degrees C by the chargecooler and in turn you are starting from a higher base when you come on boost.
I`m still going to investigate the Spec-R air to air option and/or upgrading the current air to water set up. At least I have the means to get data now. Options on improving current set up is a 10L reservoir and a slightly larger chargecooler.
On the 37 degree run ambients were 16 degrees and it was full throttle uphill for probably 3/4 of a mile. Plus as mentioned the car had heatsoaked.
On the 37 degree run ambients were 16 degrees and it was full throttle uphill for probably 3/4 of a mile. Plus as mentioned the car had heatsoaked.
The whole chargecooler system is cleverly built and done on a very tight budget. For instance the chargecooler is this one:
http://bit.ly/1jh7CVk with a Think Automotive 14gall/hr pump and a Serck alloy radiator that's roughly 35cm x 30cm. The whole thing probably cost £250 and for that it does a great job.
The rad and getting the temp out of the system isn't the problem. It's the same issue that the PWR barrels have, there just isn't enough meat to get the reduction needed.
I think as a first attempt I'm going to change to this one from same company:
http://bit.ly/1mhaBUa and a header tank. Total cost about £100. It's not that I'm trying to do this on a pittance it's just tinkering.
I was actually quite impressed yesterday, no heatsoak this time as no traffic and a prolonged 20mile on off boost hoon at ambients of 16 never saw above 29 degrees intake.
http://bit.ly/1jh7CVk with a Think Automotive 14gall/hr pump and a Serck alloy radiator that's roughly 35cm x 30cm. The whole thing probably cost £250 and for that it does a great job.
The rad and getting the temp out of the system isn't the problem. It's the same issue that the PWR barrels have, there just isn't enough meat to get the reduction needed.
I think as a first attempt I'm going to change to this one from same company:
http://bit.ly/1mhaBUa and a header tank. Total cost about £100. It's not that I'm trying to do this on a pittance it's just tinkering.
I was actually quite impressed yesterday, no heatsoak this time as no traffic and a prolonged 20mile on off boost hoon at ambients of 16 never saw above 29 degrees intake.
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