AFR Gauge

Author
Discussion

e21Mark

Original Poster:

16,205 posts

173 months

Thursday 25th September 2014
quotequote all
I run an air / fuel ratio gauge in my M3 and the usual reading is around the 14.4 to 14.8 range. On lift off (if lifting off whilst approaching a corner, whilst going down hill) the gauge usually reads LEAN, which as the throttle is then closed, I assume is correct. Recently however, I note the gauge no longer changes the display on lifting off the throttle pedal. I've scrolled through the functions on the gauge, but it still just reads the usual AF ratio. (I hope I've explained this clearly enough?)

The wideband lamda AFR gauge in question is a Tech Edge LA1.

Please excuse the lack of knowledge my end. This is the first car I've owned with such a gauge and I generally just use it to make sure the mixture remains in what I am told, is the safe range.

Does the failing to show as LEAN on overrun point to a fault with the lambda sensor, or am I worrying over nothing? It just seems odd, that it simply stopped displaying this.

Thanks in advance.


Steve_D

13,747 posts

258 months

Thursday 25th September 2014
quotequote all
So what reading is the gauge giving on over-run?
The word Lean on the display probably just means the reading has gone beyong the scope of the gauge. The reading you now see may just be marginally inside the range now.

Steve

Pumaracing

2,089 posts

207 months

Friday 26th September 2014
quotequote all
Sounds as though the engine's over-run fuel cutoff system is no longer working and the cylinders are still being fueled even with completely shut throttle. Normally fuel is cut off completely above about 1800 rpm when the throttle closes to save fuel and that's why you used to get an off scale lean reading on the AFR gauge. Now apparently it's being fueled at stoichiometric all the time even with throttle shut. That could point to a fault in the TPS or some sort of on/off switch which registers closed throttle.

e21Mark

Original Poster:

16,205 posts

173 months

Friday 26th September 2014
quotequote all
Steve - the gauge stays at the usual range of 14.4 to 14.8, which I was told was about the correct level "on throttle" ?

I'll look into the potential for a TPS issue. I know next to nothing about Alpha N but have a few places to mail for advice. There has been a slight hesitation issue recently, which was mostly sorted by replacing parts on the ignition side, but could also suggest the TPS was deteriorating. Could a fault with the lambda sensor cause the same issues?

Thanks in advance.

stevesingo

4,855 posts

222 months

Friday 26th September 2014
quotequote all
On the the TPS there is a closed throttle switch. If you go to MAXX Automotive web site you can download the software and chech operation with a laptop.

Register at www.s14power.com forum for advice from lots of MAXX A/N users.

e21Mark

Original Poster:

16,205 posts

173 months

Friday 26th September 2014
quotequote all
Thanks Steve. I've just been reading the instruction PDF from Maxx and I'm thinking the TPS or the wiring was disturbed recently, when the exhaust manifold studs and cam cover gaskets were replaced?

I feel like I'm on the correct path towards sorting this now anyway. I'll let you know how I get on.

Pumaracing

2,089 posts

207 months

Friday 26th September 2014
quotequote all
e21Mark said:
Could a fault with the lambda sensor cause the same issues?
No. The problem is as I've already described.

e21Mark

Original Poster:

16,205 posts

173 months

Friday 26th September 2014
quotequote all
Pumaracing said:
e21Mark said:
Could a fault with the lambda sensor cause the same issues?
No. The problem is as I've already described.
Thanks. I think I'm going to replace the TPS as a matter of course anyway, as it's a few years old now.

Steve_D

13,747 posts

258 months

Friday 26th September 2014
quotequote all
e21Mark said:
Thanks. I think I'm going to replace the TPS as a matter of course anyway, as it's a few years old now.
Brace yourself...damned expensive thing for just a bit of plastic and ceramic.

Steve

stevieturbo

17,262 posts

247 months

Friday 26th September 2014
quotequote all
Surely easier and cheaper just to test the TPS ?

PaulKemp

979 posts

145 months

Sunday 28th September 2014
quotequote all
There are instructions for Tech edge that say calibrate annually
May be worth calibrating the guage to rule a misreading out

e21Mark

Original Poster:

16,205 posts

173 months

Sunday 28th September 2014
quotequote all
Put a meter on the TPS yesterday and got a reading but am I right in thinking it acts as a potentiometer in this application?

I've been trying to source a new one, but neither BMW or Bosch have stock. It could be a month minimum, so still searching or else it'll be an overseas supplier.

After messing with it yesterday, it cured itself briefly but issue soon returned.

I'm at Santa Pod today so long shot, might find a used one as a temp' fix?

stevieturbo

17,262 posts

247 months

Sunday 28th September 2014
quotequote all
Just test the pot. If it's reading the correct voltage at closed, reads smoothly throughout the travel of the throttle with no dropouts etc then I wouldnt worry.

As someone else mentioned there may also be a closed switch with the TPS, depends how many wires it has.

But really, if the only time you're seeing something you dont quite like is when your foot is not on the throttle.....stop worrying about it.

e21Mark

Original Poster:

16,205 posts

173 months

Monday 29th September 2014
quotequote all
I'm trying not to worry about the gauge (honestly) but it's now reading HEAT, which I've not seen before. The poor running is still there but I'm going to replace the TPS anyway. Could there also be a problem with the lambda? Hence the HEAT reading?


stevieturbo

17,262 posts

247 months

Monday 29th September 2014
quotequote all
I presume the heat means there is a problem with the unit or sensor itself.

Refer to manual as they say.

It will not be an engine related issue

e21Mark

Original Poster:

16,205 posts

173 months

Monday 29th September 2014
quotequote all
I'm guessing / hoping that the sensor issue and rough running are both lambda related. I'm just trying to identify which lambda it is and will replace it anyway.

fatjon

2,200 posts

213 months

Monday 29th September 2014
quotequote all
"Heat" means it has applied voltage to the sensor heater circuit and is waiting for it to come up to temperature. Should be no more than a few seconds.

The LA1 connects to a WBO2 controller like a techedge 2J1 or similar and that connects to the sensor so likely problems are the controller or sensor and the sensor is cheaper. I have had very few failures on the Techedge controllers.

During normal running there should be quite a wide variation in the reading of the LA1 from 12:1 (ish) during acceleration down to 15:1 or leaner during over run. When the sensor fails the Techedge controller units assert a fixed output reading of 14.7:1 rather than either full rich or full lean which might make the EMS massively over compensate and leave you with a flooded engine or holed pistons.

Sensor or controller seems more likely than a TPS problem to me.

e21Mark

Original Poster:

16,205 posts

173 months

Tuesday 30th September 2014
quotequote all
Thank you to all who've responded. I really appreciate all your help as till now, my usual cars have nothing more complicated than points!

Anyway, there should be a new sensor awaiting collection shortly and I bought a TPS as one presented itself. At least I'll then know when these parts were replaced, instead of having to hazard a guess. I'll let you know how I get on, once I've fitted them. smile

stevesingo

4,855 posts

222 months

Tuesday 30th September 2014
quotequote all
I had a google and found the 0 280 120 402 has a WOT switch and a Closed throttle switch.

My guess is that the closed throttle switch is not closing. Can you see the closed throttle switch activatein the software?

When googling I found

Pin 1-black wire-5volt in
Pin 2-shielded wire-ground
Pin 3-yellow wire-signal out
Pin 4-ground
Pin 5-WOT switch
Pin 6-Closed switch

So on closed throttle pin 1&6 should have continuity. If not, you can slacken the two screws securing the TPS and rotate the TPS until you get continuity. You may need to re scale the TPS in the software, which you will have to do if you replace the TPS.

Pumaracing

2,089 posts

207 months

Tuesday 30th September 2014
quotequote all
e21Mark said:
Thanks. I think I'm going to replace the TPS as a matter of course anyway, as it's a few years old now.
Pointless and a waste of money if it's not actually faulty. If there's a closed throttle switch in the system that's what will be causing the problem and is probably just a matter of adjusting its position relative to the butterflies until it triggers when the throttle is shut.