Addatives - Don't do it!

[Rockatansky]

To the o/p: what do you make of Auto-RX? http://www.auto-rx.com/

Not sure whether they class it an additive or not.

Seems to be well received on BITOG forum.

[v8ian]

grahambell said:

opieoilman said:

riveting said:

What about moly slip? Is that good or bad?

Not too good really.(Claims about running for miles with an empty sump are fraudulent.)

Cheers.

Guy.

Do you have any proof of that Guy? Reason I ask is that I'm old enough to remember reading about a test either conducted or surpervised by AA/RAC back in the 70s.

Basically, they used two 3 litre Capris, one of which had been treated from new (or first service) with Molyslip, the other with good quality oil.

Both cars were given identical use. After x,000 miles they were taken to a test track, the sumps were drained and they were driven with no oil.

After x miles they came back in. The engine in the untreated car was rattling badly with shot bearings, but the engine in the treated car was still running OK.

Apparently after they refilled the sump it sounded just as good as before and there were no oil pressure problems.

That's one of the reasons I've been using Molyslip for years.

Mind you, that's in older engines using mineral oils.

Modern synthetics for modern engines are of course better than old mineral oils from 25 years or so back.

Was the ad for Slick 50.
I know a little about that advert, a friend of mine was a driver for the ad, yes 1 car ran without oil for so far, and the other car ran with slick 50 treatment fo 400 miles and still going strong, what the ad did not say was the engine was running on a sump full of slick 50,

Oil additives/friction reducers, in gearboxes are just as bad, start adding slippy stuff to gearboxes auto or manual is going against how gearboes work, autos have brake/clutch bands that rely on friction to work and the aver5 speed has syncro cones that rely on friction to sped up the gears to help avoid crunching gears

Molyslip, makes my boat quicker, how does that work???

[exitwound]

wildoliver said:

exitwound said:

Never had a problem flushing out old oil in the past with a pint of paraffin and latterly with ATF (occasional freebie pint from the works garage in my old job). It was always a pleasure to watch the old stuff run out like water and then have it re-filled with the new oil.

Never once had a car suffer from losing its build-up of crud and old oil from its darkest recesses, if a motor was going to fail, it would fail, regardless of how incomplete its oil change process was carried out. However, I have seen a motor fail due to the use of these oil thickener, 'stop smoke' type additives blocking small oil galleries.

Personally, I use ZX1, ...for the simple reason that one of its lubricating properties is good at polishing down 'fired up' metal to metal rough contact. No, it doesn't give extra mpg or bhp, but I do get peace of mind that alls well within my vette's motor and should it suffer catastrophic oil starvation, I'll sleep easy knowing the motor has a better chance of survival.

This is a joke right? You willingly poured paraffin in to an engine??

I'd love to know how you got all that out before refilling with oil! Most normal people try to avoid getting fuels in to oil as it decreases the lubrication ability of it.

Seems I'm showing my age here, ...sorry!

Paraffin is simply just a thin oil, not necessarily a 'fuel', its very good at washing out old oil and cleaning engine parts and has been used for many years for that purpose and still is today. No secrets there.

Sometimes the old tricks still work, like packing an oil pump with Vaseline to give it an instant 'head' when firing up a newly built motor or running in a 2 stroke racing bike with a mix of Brasso/petrol in the fuel tank!

Latterly I use the aforementioned freebie ATF for the same flushing job. Always works a treat on my vettes annual or 10k miles oil change or any other car I've owned.

[exitwound]

[quote
Molyslip, makes my boat quicker, how does that work???
[/quote]

Molybdenum Disulphide lubricant is very slippery stuff indeed. We used to use it on gearbox roller bearing races and suffered many failures until we realised it was making the balls skid in their races and wearing flat spots!

Its fine for flat bearings though...

[Simon Says]

Why would you feel the need to flush a correctly maintained engine? and why do people insist on using and quoting manufactures oil change intervals

[exitwound]

Just habit I suppose.. From the old days when oils weren't so good as they are now. I just want to get as much dirt out of the motor as I can. If it were practical to pull the sump each time and wash it out, I'd do that too. A bit of overkill never hurts and anyway tinkering is fun, ..that's why I do it!

[2603joseph]

Hello All,

This is my first post. It seems this discussion has been going on for years and much scepticism and/or bias surrounds the truths about Molyslip.

Surely the proof is in the pudding! I became interested in this product some time ago, while in Spain training on HHO systems. I decided to look into the product further and as a result could find no real evidence to indicate that the product was bad or had negative effects on engines/machinery. However I did find several other products boasting similar benefits, which the US courts had made judgements against them and order to pay millions of USD in fines for making false statements about their products! As far as I am aware in 50 years Molyslip has had no such issues.

It's too good to be true! Or is it?????
I was so impressed with the product that I decided to do some further tests of my own, ...................please feel free to view the video; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ZyELKI8cMo (video is in Greek with English subtitles). This is the first of several tests that we carried out in order to satisfy ourselves that we could honestly put our hands on our hearts and say.....'This stuff really works'. 1 month later, we carried out a second test (without re-applying any more moly) and drove the car uphill for about 8 miles before returning to our start point, which was approx 20KM round trip. NO PROBLEMS!

In order to understand the product further and how it can achieve what is claimed, I would advise anybody to research 'MOLYBDENUM & MOLYBDENUM DISUPHIDE' to find out what it is all about. Some of you may be surprised to know that it is used in the production of high strength steel alloys, various specialised parts for missile construction (i.e. the nose cone), the electronics industry, high temperature furnaces, etc. etc.

Did you know that Molybdenum is commonly known as a 'dry lubricant'?

I could rattle on about how good it is, but do yourselves a favour and do your own research.

The fact is, Lubricants that contain Molybdenum (obviously in the correct quantities) are far superior to anything man-made and greatly exceed the requirements of any engine.

I think you should all...........USE MOLYSLIP.............

Thanks for reading.

Happy Xmas to all.

[spyder dryver]

2603joseph said:

Hello All,

This is my first post. It seems this discussion has been going on for years and much scepticism and/or bias surrounds the truths about Molyslip.

Surely the proof is in the pudding! I became interested in this product some time ago, while in Spain training on HHO systems. I decided to look into the product further and as a result could find no real evidence to indicate that the product was bad or had negative effects on engines/machinery. However I did find several other products boasting similar benefits, which the US courts had made judgements against them and order to pay millions of USD in fines for making false statements about their products! As far as I am aware in 50 years Molyslip has had no such issues.

It's too good to be true! Or is it?????
I was so impressed with the product that I decided to do some further tests of my own, ...................please feel free to view the video; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ZyELKI8cMo (video is in Greek with English subtitles). This is the first of several tests that we carried out in order to satisfy ourselves that we could honestly put our hands on our hearts and say.....'This stuff really works'. 1 month later, we carried out a second test (without re-applying any more moly) and drove the car uphill for about 8 miles before returning to our start point, which was approx 20KM round trip. NO PROBLEMS!

In order to understand the product further and how it can achieve what is claimed, I would advise anybody to research 'MOLYBDENUM & MOLYBDENUM DISUPHIDE' to find out what it is all about. Some of you may be surprised to know that it is used in the production of high strength steel alloys, various specialised parts for missile construction (i.e. the nose cone), the electronics industry, high temperature furnaces, etc. etc.

Did you know that Molybdenum is commonly known as a 'dry lubricant'?

I could rattle on about how good it is, but do yourselves a favour and do your own research.

The fact is, Lubricants that contain Molybdenum (obviously in the correct quantities) are far superior to anything man-made and greatly exceed the requirements of any engine.

I think you should all...........USE MOLYSLIP.............

Thanks for reading.

Happy Xmas to all.

This is not my first post. It seems this discussion has been done to death and much scepticism and/or bs surrounds the truths about winter tyre's. Innit.

Surely the proof is in the custard! I became interested in the afterlife some time ago, while elephant racing at 42mph in an ambiwlans with window tint's. I decided to look into the perfect product further and as a result could find no real evidence to indicate that aftermarket HIDs were bad or had negative effects on Vintage Totty . However I did find several other MLM's boasting similar punchline's, which Von Hosen had made judgement's against them and order to pay million's of USD in scamera fine's for making false statement's to their insurer's about cyclists! As far as I am aware in 50 limit's the DVLA has had no such bangin' choones.

Its too good to be true! Or i's it?????
LOL
I was so impressed with the Flemkes Maclaren that I decided to park in a disabled parking spot, ...................please feel free to fk off ; http://www.what car.com/watch?v=nsx99octane355d (video is in Pagani with Sagari's subtitles). This is the first of several trackday's that we carried out in order to park on the pavement then honestly put our hands on our snowsocks and say.....'This stuff really boils my piss'. +1 month later, we carried out a second test drive (without the back seat) and tailgated the car in front for about 8 miles before returning to the conveyor belt, which was approx 20 lepton round trip via going to court tomorrow. NO st SHERLOCK!

In order to understand wheelie girl further and how it can be mapped, I would advise troll's to research 'SNAKE OIL & SNAKE OIL DISUPHIDE' to find out what RyB is all about. Barry boy's may be surprised to know that it is used in the production of high strength, various specialised parts for spacesaver construction (i.e. the fog lights), the mobile phone industry, high temperature Murcielago's, ect. ect.

Did you know that KY Jelly is commonly known as a 'dry lubricant'?

I could rattle on about how good Match.com is, but do yourselves a favour and text while driving.

The fact is, private plates (obviously in the correctly spaced) are far superior to anything man-made and shirley exceed the requirements of any engine.

I think you should all...........USE LPG.............

Thanks for clearing your windscreen.

Happy Xma's to all.
Bernie.




Sorry. I was bored.

[anonymous-user]

2603joseph said:

while in Spain training on HHO systems.

I got that far, and realised there was no point in reading any further......;-)

[Pigeon]

Exactly what I was about to post

[seagrey]

what about manufacturers additives,like the diff additive in my 07 chrysler auto transaxle?(lsd)

[Conian]

what about Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer ?

[dblack1]

I doubt this applies to Europe, but in the US we have the API, they have a rating system for Oils. in they 80s they came up with a new spec that did not have zinc in it. All of the newer specs (SG-SM) do not contain zinc. The purpose behind the change was that zinc was damaging the newer motors, and was no longer needed in the lubrication system due to improved lubrication systems. That being said, most of the motors your going to try to put this zinc additive into are going to be newer than 89 (when SG spec came out). and your not going to want zinc in your oil.
I doubt that API has a seal on the bottles in Europe, but you guys probably have your own rating system over there, and its probably not much different. The newer API ratings (SL and SM) dont leave a lot of room for changes in the additive packs included in the oil.

OK, now im gonna address additives, DONT USE THEM! There are a rare few cases were using a detergent additive (ATF, Seafoam, etc) will help clean out the motor without causing damages, but usually, there is not really anything to clean out, or you will risk clogging up oil passages with sludge that you broke loose using the detergent additive. Older non-synthetic oils will oxidize (burn) and become thinner (lower viscosity rating), when these oils oxidize they turn black and over time can leave a light coating of burned oil on the surfaces they touch. The moral of the story here, change your oil at the regular maintenance schedule, and dont use additives.

Now to address the people who will argue that the oil always comes out black, so the engine must need to be cleaned. If you use non-synthetic, as it oxidizes, it will turn black, and since it mixes with the rest of the oil, it will all be black, even right after you dumped it in the motor, but guys that have been running synthetic the life of there car should come out looking similar to when it went in.


Other lubricants are rated too (at least here in the US). so that should avoid any misinformation about other lubricants.

OK, the final topic, fuel additives. This is likely the most hit and miss topic, because the rating system only covers octane, and the distributors are only required to limit the % of contaminants (mostly water) in the fuel they distribute. As I have stated previously, things in Europe may be different. Most octane boosters might get you 1 MAYBE 2 points (and that is a stretch). Its also been shown that doubling up octane booster will only show a marginal increase in octane. The best way to hop up your octane is to use higher octane fuel. Some people have added paint thinner in small amounts to increase octane, but it can dry out your rubber seals, so i would avoid that if possible too. Most fuel contains an additive pack from the pump, and that usually includes a detergent additive. That being said, additives are not usually necessary in fuel either.

[opieoilman]

seagrey said:

what about manufacturers additives,like the diff additive in my 07 chrysler auto transaxle?(lsd)

This is just the US way of doing things. In the diff they use a normal SEA90 or 75w-90 and in some 75w-140 and then add the LSD additive, here in Europe we tend to have the additive already in the oil so you dont have to bother with mixing additives. Looking at the US market, they love them additives.

Cheers

Guy

[opieoilman]

Conian said:

what about Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer ?

Dont bother with it, in the main it is just a thickening agent, to make the oil much much thicker. Not good.

Cheers

Guy

[Conian]

thanks Opie (the OP), appreciate all your input here