Need help with my Ford XR3

[chuntington101]

Pumaracing said:

I suggest you get a tree branch and give your car a damn good thrashing. That'll probably cure it.

HAHA, you have to hit it a couple of time, then move away, wait a few seconds and repeat twice more to make it work though.

[imagineifyeswill]

Im assuming your car is fitted with a Weber carb, if so there is a water temp heated unit on the side of the carb with a spring which operates on heat to put the choke off. This unit is clamped to the carburettor with a ring secured by 3 screws, with the engine cold slacken the screws and gently turn the unit until the choke butterfly closes, there should be a small notch in the unit and three pointers on the carb body, when new the notch should have lined up with the centre pointer but with the spring weaking with age may line up with one of the others now, tighten screws. Once you have done this start the engine and run up to warm watching to see if the choke comes off.

If your car is fitted with a Ford VV carb then it is a totally different set up but IIRC all xr3s were fitted with Webers.

[stevieturbo]

I supposed the easiest thing would be to google....in the absence of an easy help description or haynes manual to offer you

http://www.fordmanuals.org/page-1043.html

[enzo54321]

okay thanks guys and thanks you stevie for the Manuel whick is a lot of help with the understanding of the carb I will try it

[sospan]

I had an XR3 years ago.
A common problem that many people had was the automatic choke would stick. A light tap with a wooden stick released it.
One solution was to replace the auto choke with a manual choke.
I replaced mine with a new auto unit and no more problems.

[CarsOrBikes]

When setting the pointer on the spiral bi-metal spring housing, make sure you are doing it when the engine is stone cold, also, before that, remove the air cleaner and when stone cold, before you adjust anything, operate the throttle once slowly to observe if the butterfly actually attempts to move at all, if not, the chances are the repositioning wont help and the spring is not working, or if the flap does, but not far, do as suggested.

It isn't just down to water temp controlling the spring which closes the flap, if I recall there is on the inside of the housing, a stepped linkage, which as the spring moves, rotates under the fast idle linkage pin, which also is adjustable, but as a last resort generally. So when observing the flap close when cold, you are really also looking to see if the resting point of the fast idle lever changes from where it was, this part only usually takes place on gentle depression of the throttle or opening by hand to see, moving the fast idle lever away so the step can get below it, it can't do it on it's own.

Hope you understand this, if the spring moves the flap this action should be passive, but you need to know to open the throttle a little to 'set' it, and also know what you're looking for in operational checks.

Sorry if my description of the parts isn't crystal clear, it's probably thirty years ago I had to service one. Ha. Oh, once it's working, drive it normally and it will adopt it's warm position, or if running in your drive etc. Just blip the throttle and the flap will open and pull the step from under the fast idle pin generally, allowing it to idle. The fast Idle value is measured warm, so if you have messed with the screw, put it back until the fast idle is around 2k, the true value I can't remember, it may be 2.2 or 1.8 or something.