How hard is it to rebuild your own engine?
Discussion
Steve_D said:
It may be worth finding out or understanding why the engine was replaced rather than just having the head gaskets replaced. There may be other factors which may mean it is not repairable rather than not economical. A cracked block would be a possibility and something a 'first timer' may not spot.
Steve
That's good advice, and thanks, it's a good point to make. I hope it's repairable as I want to put the original engine (and gearbox) back in the car. I love it, got married in it, took the newborn kids home from hospital in it, done laps of Europe many times in it, it's cherished Steve
aide said:
I was thinking of perhaps getting garage tiles
Pretty useless to run loaded trolley jacks and engine lifters over. Just seal the concrete with a suitable paint (though after a few engine rebuilds the spilled oil seems to seal it anyway!)PaulKemp said:
I started with a simple head gasket change and have worked forward over time to a full rebuild
However it ain't simple
You can't just strip an engine and replace bearings, rings, Pistons etc without nowing what to measure and how.
Then there's the cost, as an exercise over time it's affordable even with the lessons learnt but start simple, read and research, ask basic questions as there are some very very experienced engine builders on here
Just be aware some are very precious about their subject and on many forums there are the engine building equivelants of bar room lawyers
Every things a learning experience go for it
One step at a time
Sound advice, appreciated..However it ain't simple
You can't just strip an engine and replace bearings, rings, Pistons etc without nowing what to measure and how.
Then there's the cost, as an exercise over time it's affordable even with the lessons learnt but start simple, read and research, ask basic questions as there are some very very experienced engine builders on here
Just be aware some are very precious about their subject and on many forums there are the engine building equivelants of bar room lawyers
Every things a learning experience go for it
One step at a time
I've just ordered (second hand) copies of Engine Builder's Handbook and an Auto Math Handbook, thanks for the reference above earlier..
(Just as an aside, I've done a bit of work on the engine myself in the past; timing chains and tensioners are a weak point on earlier incarnations of this engine and I replaced them myself, but I never really understood engine timing so I guess there's no time like the present..)
There is cam timing and spark timing
You are looking at cam timing at this time
As a cam shaft starts opening the inlet valves before top dead centre there are measurements related to the piston position and the valve lift
If the cam data says full lift at 110 degrees after top dead centre ATDC you find TOP DEAD CENTRE TDC cam belt/chain off and rotate the engine until the piston goes down the bore and the crank has rotated 110 degrees
You then rotate the camshaft until the inlet valve on No.1 cylinder is fully open, maximum lift
Replace cam belt or chain and cam is timed
This is a very simple description and there are other ways of doing it such as the lift at TDC
As the valve is opening before TDC it will have a small amount of lift at TDC which the cam data will tell you.
You will need a degree wheel to mount to the crank, a dial gauge to measure the valve lift and a vernier cam pulley to set it accurately
Kent cams have a how to do it page and you tube will get you hundreds of videos to look at
Once you get the idea it's not hard to do
You are looking at cam timing at this time
As a cam shaft starts opening the inlet valves before top dead centre there are measurements related to the piston position and the valve lift
If the cam data says full lift at 110 degrees after top dead centre ATDC you find TOP DEAD CENTRE TDC cam belt/chain off and rotate the engine until the piston goes down the bore and the crank has rotated 110 degrees
You then rotate the camshaft until the inlet valve on No.1 cylinder is fully open, maximum lift
Replace cam belt or chain and cam is timed
This is a very simple description and there are other ways of doing it such as the lift at TDC
As the valve is opening before TDC it will have a small amount of lift at TDC which the cam data will tell you.
You will need a degree wheel to mount to the crank, a dial gauge to measure the valve lift and a vernier cam pulley to set it accurately
Kent cams have a how to do it page and you tube will get you hundreds of videos to look at
Once you get the idea it's not hard to do
Thanks Paul, that makes sense, appreciated!
I read Engine Blueprinting, Step by Step Guide last year, which was an easy entry level read.
I read Engine Blueprinting, Step by Step Guide last year, which was an easy entry level read.
PaulKemp said:
If the cam data says full lift at 110 degrees after top dead centre ATDC you find TOP DEAD CENTRE TDC cam belt/chain off and rotate the engine until the piston goes down the bore and the crank has rotated 110 degrees
You then rotate the camshaft until the inlet valve on No.1 cylinder is fully open, maximum lift
Replace cam belt or chain and cam is timed
I didn't know, in principal, it was that straightforward.You then rotate the camshaft until the inlet valve on No.1 cylinder is fully open, maximum lift
Replace cam belt or chain and cam is timed
I've rebuilt a few A-Series Mini engines and's not as scary as it first seems.
I'm currently musing picking up an RX8 with low compression for peanuts and doing a rotary rebuild. The only thing stopping me is the rebuild kits are frighteningly expensive compared to piston engines for some reason.
I'm currently musing picking up an RX8 with low compression for peanuts and doing a rotary rebuild. The only thing stopping me is the rebuild kits are frighteningly expensive compared to piston engines for some reason.
HorneyMX5 said:
I've rebuilt a few A-Series Mini engines and's not as scary as it first seems.
I'm currently musing picking up an RX8 with low compression for peanuts and doing a rotary rebuild. The only thing stopping me is the rebuild kits are frighteningly expensive compared to piston engines for some reason.
I've never had a rotary apart, but do think they require special attention....might be easier to swap the short motor out with one from a reputable re-builder, as it will then come with a warranty etc.I'm currently musing picking up an RX8 with low compression for peanuts and doing a rotary rebuild. The only thing stopping me is the rebuild kits are frighteningly expensive compared to piston engines for some reason.
But it'd be interesting to pull one apart.
Boosted LS1 said:
Send them to the experts forum.
They're probably all too busy re-programming their ecu's every few minutes to rebuild an engineGassing Station | Engines & Drivetrain | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff