Discussion
Does anyone know of a supplier in the UK that sells these, or something similar?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Long-Reach-Rotary-Burr-4...
I kind of need them sooner rather than later and don't want to wait for them to be delivered from California
I am about to start porting my RV8 heads and I don't think the pink coloured stones will cut it (pun intended) in this nice little rotary set.
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/crt40-40pce-rotary...
Any help appreciated.
Cad
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Long-Reach-Rotary-Burr-4...
I kind of need them sooner rather than later and don't want to wait for them to be delivered from California
I am about to start porting my RV8 heads and I don't think the pink coloured stones will cut it (pun intended) in this nice little rotary set.
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/crt40-40pce-rotary...
Any help appreciated.
Cad
stevieturbo said:
And even at that, not sure I'd fancy a long bit like that turning at 20,000rpm or so
No neither would I, head porters call it 'Helicoptering' when a long cutter like that all of a sudden bends right over in high speed use - very dangerous.@ the OP, Look in Garrysons cat: http://www.mega-power.com.hk/download/Garryson%20B...
Then find a local dealer.
Hi Cad
You show 1/4" shank burrs and a 3mm porting tool. You need to ensure you are singing from the same hymn sheet.
We use 6mm shanks on our burrs and stones.
We tend to buy largeish quantities of burrs (20+ usually) so we can maintain stock. We do around 5 modded heads a week so wear rate is quite a factor! We stock close tooth burrs for cast iron and steel and wide tooth burrs specifically for ally and plastic. However we do use the close tooth burrs on ally as well. We also use longer reach burrs to get up into the ports on right angle sided ports such as V8 SD1s. We cannot buy them off the shelf easily so we had a batch of 50 flame shape double cut 8/19mm OD/length of burr with a 169mm x 6mm shank made especially for us by Master Abrasives who is our main supplier. We cut the shank down to the length we need.
Whilst we do not sell burrs as part of the business you would be most welcome to drop in, see what we have and how we use them and buy a few if that helps?
Peter
You show 1/4" shank burrs and a 3mm porting tool. You need to ensure you are singing from the same hymn sheet.
We use 6mm shanks on our burrs and stones.
We tend to buy largeish quantities of burrs (20+ usually) so we can maintain stock. We do around 5 modded heads a week so wear rate is quite a factor! We stock close tooth burrs for cast iron and steel and wide tooth burrs specifically for ally and plastic. However we do use the close tooth burrs on ally as well. We also use longer reach burrs to get up into the ports on right angle sided ports such as V8 SD1s. We cannot buy them off the shelf easily so we had a batch of 50 flame shape double cut 8/19mm OD/length of burr with a 169mm x 6mm shank made especially for us by Master Abrasives who is our main supplier. We cut the shank down to the length we need.
Whilst we do not sell burrs as part of the business you would be most welcome to drop in, see what we have and how we use them and buy a few if that helps?
Peter
My old man ported heads for over 30 years - used 'windys' or what we call die grinders.
He used 1/4 shank fine burs on ally with parafin. He made his own long reach burs by making an extension that went into the windy and the bur was locktighted into the end.
I showed him the long shank ones and as peter aluded to, they get knocked out of true very easily.
That dremel is no good, will burn out.
He used 1/4 shank fine burs on ally with parafin. He made his own long reach burs by making an extension that went into the windy and the bur was locktighted into the end.
I showed him the long shank ones and as peter aluded to, they get knocked out of true very easily.
That dremel is no good, will burn out.
I do the bulk of my porting with stock reach burrs in a die grinder, for the longer reach work I use a mandrel with the burr remotely mounted and ru. It in an electric drill. This is entirely satisfactory.
If you have a look at my K series engine page there are some illustration of the mandrels I use.
www.dvapower.com/kengine
Dave
If you have a look at my K series engine page there are some illustration of the mandrels I use.
www.dvapower.com/kengine
Dave
I'll dig out a photo of my dad's old tools he developed over the years - similar idea to Daves, also he just locktighted the bur in the mandrel rather than using a grub screw - which allows them to be more slender.
They are also much longer - they run perfectly true.
I remember as a kid he used to cover them up when certain customers came round as he was convinced they were trying to spy his 'secret' tools.
They are also much longer - they run perfectly true.
I remember as a kid he used to cover them up when certain customers came round as he was convinced they were trying to spy his 'secret' tools.
Hi Eliot
It would be interesting to know more about your Dad and his work.
I was looking at your website and interested in the dyno run you write up. With offroaders we usually take the front prop off (as we are two WD dyno) engage the diff lock and go for it. With autos we always put it in say 3 and hope it stays in that gear and doesn't 'kick down'. If it kicks down we remove the cable for the power testing. Last week we had a 'modern' auto box on a comp safari with 3.9/Edelbrock. There was no cable to remove as all electronic. It did have a sequential shift lever though which, when the box was in drive would hold the gear I chose with the sequential lever...smart technology, even had a display on the dash telling me what it was all doing and changing from A4 to S4 when I used the sequential lever, posh stuff indeed.
Cooling intercooler can be a bugger, we try and do the turbots in the cooler months....snow is good for cooling the charge cooler as well
The power graphs look like a physics exam showing effects of intake charge temp on bhp...every 3 degrees increase losing approx 1% bhp with the differences in the power figures agreeing very closely with the physics.
Peter
It would be interesting to know more about your Dad and his work.
I was looking at your website and interested in the dyno run you write up. With offroaders we usually take the front prop off (as we are two WD dyno) engage the diff lock and go for it. With autos we always put it in say 3 and hope it stays in that gear and doesn't 'kick down'. If it kicks down we remove the cable for the power testing. Last week we had a 'modern' auto box on a comp safari with 3.9/Edelbrock. There was no cable to remove as all electronic. It did have a sequential shift lever though which, when the box was in drive would hold the gear I chose with the sequential lever...smart technology, even had a display on the dash telling me what it was all doing and changing from A4 to S4 when I used the sequential lever, posh stuff indeed.
Cooling intercooler can be a bugger, we try and do the turbots in the cooler months....snow is good for cooling the charge cooler as well
The power graphs look like a physics exam showing effects of intake charge temp on bhp...every 3 degrees increase losing approx 1% bhp with the differences in the power figures agreeing very closely with the physics.Peter
Hi Peter,
Ive left a tribute to him on his old business website:
http://www.mezporting.com
There's a video of him finishing some american straight 8 engine - was cast iron which he hated doing.
He mainly did classic bikes (Norton, Triumph, Ducati etc).
He did a few car engines and living in Newport Pagnell he did a few heads for Aston Martin, which he just quadrupled the price on and they didnt bat an eyelid, they had more of an issue with his demand to be paid in cash - 'But we are Aston Martin - send us an Invoice' - He goes 'I'm George, pay me cash take it or leave it'
The paid him cash.
Ive left a tribute to him on his old business website:
http://www.mezporting.com
There's a video of him finishing some american straight 8 engine - was cast iron which he hated doing.
He mainly did classic bikes (Norton, Triumph, Ducati etc).
He did a few car engines and living in Newport Pagnell he did a few heads for Aston Martin, which he just quadrupled the price on and they didnt bat an eyelid, they had more of an issue with his demand to be paid in cash - 'But we are Aston Martin - send us an Invoice' - He goes 'I'm George, pay me cash take it or leave it'
The paid him cash.
I made a little page showing all his "secret" tools - He died 10 years ago almost to the day, so a nice tribute to the old fella:
http://www.mez.co.uk/page125.html
http://www.mez.co.uk/page125.html
Thank you for all the replies gentlemen. Sorry for the tardy response, but work and family stuff comes first.
After trying all of the links to companies, I am still no further forward in procuring the right tools. Mainly because I don't have an air compressor, so die grinders are out. Either that or I buy a compressor, which seems overkill for just doing some porting. I imagine it'll be cheaper to pay someone to do it. But even then that's going to be pricey, I imagine...
I think it's going to mean buying from one of the American companies to get a long reach burr bit for a drill. I have a variable speed Makita so no crazy rpms.
Unless anyone has the name of a UK supplier of long shank carbide burrs for a drill, looks like I'm dealing with the yanks.
Cad
P.s - sorry to hear about your dad Elliot. He looked like a good guy and an accomplished craftsman.
After trying all of the links to companies, I am still no further forward in procuring the right tools. Mainly because I don't have an air compressor, so die grinders are out. Either that or I buy a compressor, which seems overkill for just doing some porting. I imagine it'll be cheaper to pay someone to do it. But even then that's going to be pricey, I imagine...
I think it's going to mean buying from one of the American companies to get a long reach burr bit for a drill. I have a variable speed Makita so no crazy rpms.
Unless anyone has the name of a UK supplier of long shank carbide burrs for a drill, looks like I'm dealing with the yanks.
Cad
P.s - sorry to hear about your dad Elliot. He looked like a good guy and an accomplished craftsman.
We have used Dotco airgrinders for the last 27 years and been very pleased with them, we have 4 of the 10-11 series 0.3hp 5" extended nose ones at around £350 each and a 0.9hp one at around £450. We have to have them reconditioned every year or so especially with regard to NVH certificates and legal requirements but such is modern life!
Peter
Peter
Just go and buy a flexidrive from your nearest Screwfix for £14 . You then have all the power of a full size mains drill and its lot easier to move about. I used a pillar drill as the power source, but you could use a portable one if you bolted it down to the bench well enough. The flexi drive will break eventually, but should last long enough to do the job.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/flexible-drive-shaft-915...
http://www.screwfix.com/p/flexible-drive-shaft-915...
Edited by blitzracing on Thursday 4th February 16:51
blitzracing said:
Just go and buy a flexidrive from your nearest Screwfix for £14 . You then have all the power of a full size mains drill and its lot easier to move about. I used a pillar drill as the power source, but you could use a portable one if you bolted it down to the bench well enough. The flexi drive will break eventually, but should last long enough to do the job.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/flexible-drive-shaft-915...
Using a drill, that'll be going woefully slow for any real work.http://www.screwfix.com/p/flexible-drive-shaft-915...
Edited by blitzracing on Thursday 4th February 16:51
blitzracing said:
Just go and buy a flexidrive from your nearest Screwfix for £14 . You then have all the power of a full size mains drill and its lot easier to move about. I used a pillar drill as the power source, but you could use a portable one if you bolted it down to the bench well enough. The flexi drive will break eventually, but should last long enough to do the job.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/flexible-drive-shaft-915...
Great idea, but I'm still left with the problem that the end won't fit down into the runners, like the dremel flexible rotary one does. http://www.screwfix.com/p/flexible-drive-shaft-915...
It seems I',m not destined to do any porting or decoking even
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