2007 Vectra 1.8 vvt oil pressure issues

[e460rob]

Story goes, bought a vectra c 1.8vvt super cheap with a few issues i plan to fix in spare time. When purchased it looked like the oil cooler gasket had gone as there was plenty of mayo in coolant system and oil pressure light, no signs head gasket failure. So removed oil cooler and gasket looked proper ropey so changed that out. Started up fine but after after about 2-3 minutes the oil light comes on and gets very noisy up top. Light goes out when revved so now im thinking oil pump has gone. I have removed both oil solenoids in the cylinder head, replaced oil filter which looked a bit ropey and new oil and still get the light on when warmed up. Is there any other possibilities before i go both feet first into another oil pump? Many thanks

[E-bmw]

I don't know if the 2007 engines are the same, but the late 80/early 90's 1.8s were renowned for cam bearing failure, went through a couple myself.

[E-bmw]

Sorry, I will re-phrase that.

I know the engines are different, but, I don't know if the 2007 engines suffer from the same failings, but, the late 80/early 90's 1.8s were renowned for cam bearing failure, I went through a couple myself.

[Sardonicus]

Check the oil pick up strainer isn't full off st or silicone sealer if its been got at previously

[e460rob]

Thanks for the advice chaps, if the strainer turns out to be fine am I looking at a new oil pump? Many thank's

[Garybee]

I bought a Vectra a few years ago with the 8 valve version of this engine. Its oil light would come on occasionally and the top end would go tappety. After 2 or 3 oil/filter changes and a bit of use it was fine. It had been very neglected looking at the oil/gunge that came out.

If you've had gunk in the oil system that has emulsified it may need a good flush (to get it all cleared out) and nothing more.

[imagineifyeswill]

It is reasonably common for the oil pump to go faulty on these engines.

[e460rob]

Right update, have fitted replacement oil pump and sump gauze with fresh oil, still taps a bit, then tapping goes and oil light returns after 5 mins once warm and remains rattly up top, where do i go from here guys. I despise being beating so not giving up yet. I noticed i seem to have a damaged camshaft phase solenoid which when disconnected the tapping goes, the red tagging you see should have a black sleeve which secures wiring pins. Could these be connected?

[FordPrefect56]

e460rob said:

Light goes out when revved so now im thinking oil pump has gone.

Well that was your first mistake. Unless it actually physically breaks and stops pumping the last thing in an engine to go is the oil pump! Which bit of the engine always has oil lubricating it? Answers on a postcard.

Anyhoo. Oil light on at hot idle but off when revved? Knackered crank and bearings. End of.

[e460rob]

Would i not hear alot of knocking from the crank area if they were badly worn?

[Evoluzione]

e460rob said:

Right update, have fitted replacement oil pump and sump gauze with fresh oil, still taps a bit, then tapping goes and oil light returns after 5 mins once warm and remains rattly up top, where do i go from here guys. I despise being beating so not giving up yet. I noticed i seem to have a damaged camshaft phase solenoid which when disconnected the tapping goes, the red tagging you see should have a black sleeve which secures wiring pins. Could these be connected?

Can you get a good recording of this tapping?

[FordPrefect56]

e460rob said:

Would i not hear alot of knocking from the crank area if they were badly worn?

No. Now have a think and work out why.

[e460rob]

Ill take a recoding tomorrow and post it up. Its definitely a top end tap than a bottom end knock but im no expert.

[FordPrefect56]

e460rob said:

Ill take a recoding tomorrow and post it up. Its definitely a top end tap than a bottom end knock but im no expert.

Seriously, no need to bother. We already know what the noise is.

[e460rob]

I appreciate your response but could you illaberate on the explanation for those of us who are not mechanics by trade. Many thanks

[FordPrefect56]

Hmmm, dunno about that but I could elaborate I suppose. The tapping noise is the hydraulic tappets which are starting to play up as there is no longer enough oil pressure to operate them properly. The crank is still quiet because there's not enough load on it at idle to make a noise whether there's oil pressure or not and there's still enough oil pressure at higher rpm to put the light out so again no noise yet. You'll know all about crank bearing knock when there's no longer enough oil pressure to put the light out at higher rpm.

And "mechanic" ??? (spit). I'd need a full frontal lobotomy or at least a full bottle in front of me just to be able to think down to the level of mechanic. Race engine designer if you don't mind. Ta.

[227bhp]

They look like the words of a frustrated retiree to me anyhow...
Given that diagnoses, either put an oil pressure test gauge on it or drop the sump and bearing caps and take a look at the bearings.

Edited by 227bhp on Monday 13th June 22:24

[Sardonicus]

IMO failed/failing mains can hemorrhage a huge amount of oil and still remain quiet compared to knackered b/ends, dont always presume that the b/ends follow the mains failure before the less loaded mains this may of been top and tailed previously/badly bodged/repaired (new b/end bearings) without them changing/checking main bearing condition, and yes I am a (SPIT) mechanic but more knowledgeable than most, I have also witnessed some obscene bodges when it comes to this kind of problem and always expect the unexpected although nowadays I just shy away from the kind of nonsense cheaper to replace motor than repair nowadays when run like this there is always more engine component casualties either short or long term

[e460rob]

You think i should cut my losses and run then? Thanks for all your help chaps