Good VFM multimeter for diagnosing battery drain
Discussion
Afternoon PHers. Does anyone have any suggestions for a good VFM multimeter I can use on my Zed? I have noticed my battery has been draining and the other day it wouldn't start. The battery was 6 years old so this morning I put a new one in, but I still suspect something might be draining it, even if the old one was a bit old, surely it shouldn't drain to the point where I can't even start it after 3 days of it sitting?
So, I need a good VFM multimeter. Not some cheap piece of crap that I'll end up replacing on the second use, but equally, not some mega expensive Fluke device as it'll only get used occasionally. Something that is suitable for the task of using with a car, ideally with clips so I don't have to hold the probes on while I'm working.
Also any pointers into the best way to trace the fault, what settings to use etc.
Cheers
So, I need a good VFM multimeter. Not some cheap piece of crap that I'll end up replacing on the second use, but equally, not some mega expensive Fluke device as it'll only get used occasionally. Something that is suitable for the task of using with a car, ideally with clips so I don't have to hold the probes on while I'm working.
Also any pointers into the best way to trace the fault, what settings to use etc.
Cheers
Got a POS off Ebay because I did not think I needed it, well, it's been fine for years.
As for settings, I would presume that you'd connect, check for current flow, and simply remove fuses till the drain stops.
What I can tell from personal experience of a different car, but perhaps some info may be useful too:
Unless locked and alarm armed, the car remains on standby and there is drain. My battery would last around 3-5 days with car unlocked. Lock and set, and we're looking at 2 weeks before the battery drains (still no good)
Since then I discovered a tracker on the car with its own lead acid battery that was kaput, so presumably the car's main battery was always trying to charge this battery, which would not have helped. Removed it. Other than that, nowadays since the car is garaged I always disconnect the battery, but obviously that's not really doable if not garaged. So I can't tell whether I sorted it or not. Car alarms also have a separate battery so something else to consider.
As for settings, I would presume that you'd connect, check for current flow, and simply remove fuses till the drain stops.
What I can tell from personal experience of a different car, but perhaps some info may be useful too:
Unless locked and alarm armed, the car remains on standby and there is drain. My battery would last around 3-5 days with car unlocked. Lock and set, and we're looking at 2 weeks before the battery drains (still no good)
Since then I discovered a tracker on the car with its own lead acid battery that was kaput, so presumably the car's main battery was always trying to charge this battery, which would not have helped. Removed it. Other than that, nowadays since the car is garaged I always disconnect the battery, but obviously that's not really doable if not garaged. So I can't tell whether I sorted it or not. Car alarms also have a separate battery so something else to consider.
I've got one like this - the clamp allows you to measure DC current without putting the meter inline (ie: no need to disconnect any wires).
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Auto-Ranging-Manual-Digit...
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Auto-Ranging-Manual-Digit...
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