Machine shop query

[caduceus]

Just a quick question all. I had a new liner put in my Rover V8 recently by a reputable machine shop. I've noticed there is a lot of swarf and detritus in and around the block. After having this job done I was going to start to rebuild the engine. But obviously it needs to be spotlessly clean. Which it isn't.

My question is - after having machine work done on a block, should you expect to receive your engine block back clean and free of debris?

Cad

[one eyed mick]

You might expect it but not always will the block have been cleaned ready for rebuild ,depends on the induvidual shop's attitude always best to specify to them you wantit ready for rebuild or accept that you will have to clean it

[caduceus]

Yup, sounds like sense. I did wonder it might end up being that way. I think I'll try and find a local mc shop just to give it a thorough clean and blow out and bag it, ready for me to rebuild.

Thanks Mick.

[stevieturbo]

If you have paid them to clean it, then yes you would expect it to be clean.

If you havent, then no.

And ultimately it's up to whoever is building it to ensure everything is clean and ready to be built regardless of what anyone has said or done before.

[mr.man]

We've machined hundreds of cylinder heads over the years and never clean them out.
The instruction of " there are likely to be tiny bits of metal in there, so wash/airline thoroughly
before doing anything else" removes any blame that could be pointed in our direction.

[Little Pete]

In my experience general engineering machine shops don't clean and engine re conditioners do, for the most part that is. However, as has been mentioned above, always clean it yourself no matter how clean it looks because if/when it goes wrong there is only one person picking up the tab!

[Auntieroll]

Machine shops rarely do more than blow the block off with an airline unless specifically asked to , most of them don't have the required equipment to perform the task unless they also rebuild engines .
As mentioned above liability is also an issue, only one piece of swarf or honing grit in the wrong place can junk an engine , this way the ultimate responsibility for (thorough) cleaning rests with you.
Incidentally, when you do come to clean the block you'll realise why they left it to you, it takes an age to do properly, I usually finish off with either thinners or petrol , let it evaporate off thoroughly till its bone dry , after which a fingertip run around all the internal radii to check for anything lurking , you will be amazed how long it takes to get it spotless, even then paranoia that you've missed a bit will, (if you're anything like most engine builders) probably set in !
The golden rules : "there is no such thing as too clean", "good enough rarely is", sage advice given to me 50 odd years ago by a chap who built RR aero engines.
I find that all the trials and tribulations of engine building tend to get forgotten when you are driving along behind something that YOU built yourself, very satisfying.
HTH

[227bhp]

All machine shops do is put it through an automated parts washer, no more.
As said, the onus is on you as the builder, If you've got a power washer it's easy; Hot soapy water and bog brush to newly bored/honed cylinders, everywhere else lots of water soluble engine degreaser, tooth brush, dish brush, bottle brush then turn the power washer on it whilst it's off the ground (presumably on an engine stand). Dirt blaster nozzles are the best if you have one, hit every single orifice from both ends and spend a good 20 mins on the whole lot. Identify every hole and check it hasn't got somewhere the dirt can of hidden - dead ends etc.
Check it all over.
Dry it quickly (compressed air or in front of blower/heater) and WD40 etc onto the bare metal as it will flash rust in seconds.

That ^^ is better than any machine shop will do it.

[one eyed mick]

^what he says , I would never assemble any engine parts without clean and check no matter who had machined it even if it was my self

[caduceus]

Thanks for all the replies all. Please excuse my ignorance re what is expected of mc shops, etc. It's a bit of a learning curve doing everything yourself, but an immensely satisfying and valuable experience.

227bhp said:

All machine shops do is put it through an automated parts washer, no more.
As said, the onus is on you as the builder, If you've got a power washer it's easy; Hot soapy water and bog brush to newly bored/honed cylinders, everywhere else lots of water soluble engine degreaser, tooth brush, dish brush, bottle brush then turn the power washer on it whilst it's off the ground (presumably on an engine stand). Dirt blaster nozzles are the best if you have one, hit every single orifice from both ends and spend a good 20 mins on the whole lot. Identify every hole and check it hasn't got somewhere the dirt can of hidden - dead ends etc.
Check it all over.
Dry it quickly (compressed air or in front of blower/heater) and WD40 etc onto the bare metal as it will flash rust in seconds.

That ^^ is better than any machine shop will do it.

I was going to take it to a local mc shop today who were going to put the block through their washer, but by the sounds of things this isn't going to anywhere near enough. So will be DIYing myself later.

Trouble is, I'm all out of room in my meagre single garage so I can't buy anymore equipment until I relocate, which I'm in the process of doing (readying my flat for letting, etc).
So I guess I'll be hiring a compressor and pressure washer for now.

• One question** - After I have cleaned the bejesus out of the block, crank and heads; Can the engine be reassembled with a coating of WD40 over it (to stop flash rusting), or will the WD react with the engine assembly lube and engine oil?

I have already coated the crank and block with WD a week or so ago and its preserving the polished crank and cylinders well. But this'll be soon cleaned off.

Thanks again. Appreciate the help.

Cad

[CrutyRammers]

if you don't want to hire a compresser and all, take it down the local car wash and use the jetwash on it. That's what I did You can then give it a final going over at home to make sure you've got everything, with rags & pipecleaners. Though IIRC, the jetwash got it pretty spotless in my case.
WD straight away as said to displace any water. Then you can coat everything with engine assembly lube to give it longer term protection as you build it back up.