help with focus overheat problems
Discussion
i can get my scanner thingy to display live readings from the head sensor , but without knowing what reading i should expect its no use
im told head sensor feeds the ecu which then tells the fan control to turn on , but id need to know at what xx degrees , its alos suggest the temp gauge is more of an indicator and cant be trusted to show any sort of accuracy ??
im told head sensor feeds the ecu which then tells the fan control to turn on , but id need to know at what xx degrees , its alos suggest the temp gauge is more of an indicator and cant be trusted to show any sort of accuracy ??
Edited by steveo3002 on Friday 17th March 18:32
steveo3002 said:
personally i dont think an engine can go from normal to red hot and back again within 10 seconds, so thinking thats an elec glitch
although that doesnt explain why it boiled up in the first place
Unfortunately, temp gauges these days are pretty crap. Otherwise known as idiot gauges. They tend to have three positions. Cold, operating temperature and your engine has melted. They aren't linear like you would expect them to be.although that doesnt explain why it boiled up in the first place
The best thing to do is plug your scanner in and if it can read live data then take it for a drive and see what temps it reads.
If it was any other zetec engine then the coolant temp sensor is it the top of the thermostat housing but I know little about the 1.6 (se?).
Normally air locks work themselves out pretty easily unless you have an absolute beast of an air lock then I would be looking elsewhere. Is the temp sensor goosed?
Just an idea but you can buy multimeters with temperature probes pretty cheap. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-MM20-8-Function-Mu...
I have one of these and it's very accurate, as accurate as my digital dash anyway.
You could try taping the probe to one of the rad hoses and see roughly what temperature it is. I have seen temps around 100deg c on my focus. Anything more than 105c/110c then you have issues.
I have one of these and it's very accurate, as accurate as my digital dash anyway.
You could try taping the probe to one of the rad hoses and see roughly what temperature it is. I have seen temps around 100deg c on my focus. Anything more than 105c/110c then you have issues.
right update if anyones still looking in
driven the car alot and keep stopping to check , at no point does the hoses /rad feel too hot
gauge still shoots from normal to hot and back again in around 10 seconds , seems to happen mostly when going from 70 ish and backing off to 50 , i think its too fast to be a genuine overheat
fan comes on randomly even at speed
i got the machine hooked up and cylinder temp is showing 114 after a long run , hoses felt normal , no fan on , im told fan should come on at 105
does it sound like a duff cylinder head temp sender??
basicly its thinking its hot and its not?
driven the car alot and keep stopping to check , at no point does the hoses /rad feel too hot
gauge still shoots from normal to hot and back again in around 10 seconds , seems to happen mostly when going from 70 ish and backing off to 50 , i think its too fast to be a genuine overheat
fan comes on randomly even at speed
i got the machine hooked up and cylinder temp is showing 114 after a long run , hoses felt normal , no fan on , im told fan should come on at 105
does it sound like a duff cylinder head temp sender??
basicly its thinking its hot and its not?
Hi you should have two on your car. One is located on the head -
Then there should be one which is screwed into the rad but this tends to activate the fan. The one inthe head would give readings to the ecu. Also check that the thermostat isn't failing. If it sticks in closed position it would also cause engine to overheat
Then there should be one which is screwed into the rad but this tends to activate the fan. The one inthe head would give readings to the ecu. Also check that the thermostat isn't failing. If it sticks in closed position it would also cause engine to overheat
In a word no.
Just had a thought though, you say it mostly varies when slowing down coming off the motorway.
Is the change in engine speed causing a weakness in the pump to be highlighted.
I did have an old VX several years ago where 75% of the impellor blades had rusted away & at speed it worked well enough, slowing down the temperature would sky-rocket.
Just had a thought though, you say it mostly varies when slowing down coming off the motorway.
Is the change in engine speed causing a weakness in the pump to be highlighted.
I did have an old VX several years ago where 75% of the impellor blades had rusted away & at speed it worked well enough, slowing down the temperature would sky-rocket.
genuine temp sender fitted - still the same
not sure what else to do - couple of threads on the forums saying thiers was the ecu , might try a ebay one out of desperation
http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/general-technic...
not sure what else to do - couple of threads on the forums saying thiers was the ecu , might try a ebay one out of desperation
http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/general-technic...
Suggest you buy a thermometer with a remote (wired) sensor that you can position inside the vehicle and see if the top hose temperature is actually varying as your gauge suggests. An ordinary (contact) sensor will read reasonably quickly (tens of seconds) if attacked to metal which is in direct contact with water such as an outlet spigot. Remember to insulate over the outside so that you're only seeing coolant/pipe temp and not an average with air temp.
GreenV8S said:
Suggest you buy a thermometer with a remote (wired) sensor that you can position inside the vehicle and see if the top hose temperature is actually varying as your gauge suggests. An ordinary (contact) sensor will read reasonably quickly (tens of seconds) if attacked to metal which is in direct contact with water such as an outlet spigot. Remember to insulate over the outside so that you're only seeing coolant/pipe temp and not an average with air temp.
yes i had thought of that , im reasonbly sure its not actually overheating but peace of mind and all thattrouble is it goes into limp mode/2cyl mode when it thinks its very hot
Have you tried the thermostat as I suggested mate. You've already stated that the cooking system was full of crud. If this is the case the thermostat could be clogged up or at its age it's probably failed. If it's failed in the closed position then the car will over heat. Also would cause the cold pipes after the stat location
Dogma1978 said:
Have you tried the thermostat as I suggested mate. You've already stated that the cooking system was full of crud. If this is the case the thermostat could be clogged up or at its age it's probably failed. If it's failed in the closed position then the car will over heat. Also would cause the cold pipes after the stat location
it had a new one first job i did on it , in desperation ive knocked the guts out of it and been for a jaunt , as expected its very slow to warm up but ive done about 60 miles tonight with no warnings /overheats , the fresh coolant that came out looked fine , no sludge or bits in itnot sure if that means dud new stat ,massive air lock , or that the gutted stat is giving a partially block rad an easy life
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