What Engine for 500BHP
Discussion
You can get a close ratio gear set, but they bring everything down closer to 1st, so that would need a custom final drive, which can be done if I decide i need taller lower gears.
Gear set is £2K & I have been quoted £1500 for a one off shaft/ ring gear for a 3.3 final drive.
The stock LSD has been changed for a Quaife ATB - I heard that the stock one wasnt up to my power output & quaife say theirs is unbraekable!
Gear set is £2K & I have been quoted £1500 for a one off shaft/ ring gear for a 3.3 final drive.
The stock LSD has been changed for a Quaife ATB - I heard that the stock one wasnt up to my power output & quaife say theirs is unbraekable!
tvrolet said:
Dunno about what engine for 500bhp, but for 625bhp I got me one of these 
No turbos, superchargers or funny fuels - just 7 litres of V8 goodness.
Work starts tomorrow on the winter project to get it into the car and all hooked up...
Nice power figures, but I doubt that it would fit in the back of a stratos!No turbos, superchargers or funny fuels - just 7 litres of V8 goodness.
Work starts tomorrow on the winter project to get it into the car and all hooked up...
Edited by turbonutter on Saturday 10th November 08:59
Car been at OJZ for the exhaust Modifications this week, New bracket for the turbo and modified downpipe to clear the gearbox is all completed, as well as changing the slip joint springs for bolts to limit the amount of movement possible...
Those are temporary bolts - hence the nylocs I am awaiting delivery of some stainless ones with all steel lock nuts.
Those are temporary bolts - hence the nylocs I am awaiting delivery of some stainless ones with all steel lock nuts.
Today I managed to get the gearbox on my milling machine (just). Really it isnt big enough, but it worked - I wouldnt reccommend it unless you are extreemly carefull
The box was in the mill to make clearance for the starter motor gear & a couple of bolts that bolt the plate to the engine.
The Plate is also finally fitted to the engine...
I have also had the gearbox fitted and removed, so I could check the release bearing clearance (using placticene) It came out at 4.5mm just what I had aimed for.
So the box is now bolted to the engine for I hope the last time.
next I need to check the cross shaft bearing support and shim that as required...
The box was in the mill to make clearance for the starter motor gear & a couple of bolts that bolt the plate to the engine.
The Plate is also finally fitted to the engine...
I have also had the gearbox fitted and removed, so I could check the release bearing clearance (using placticene) It came out at 4.5mm just what I had aimed for.
So the box is now bolted to the engine for I hope the last time.
next I need to check the cross shaft bearing support and shim that as required...
I wish I wasn't following this thread now, the amount of tinkering thats going on which I so wish I had the knowledge, facilities and finances to do is really annoying me 
And to top it off would so love a Stratos rep to do it on, keep it up, makes my mundane musings in a friends garage look very insignificant... Top work
And to top it off would so love a Stratos rep to do it on, keep it up, makes my mundane musings in a friends garage look very insignificant... Top work
Mikey G said:
I wish I wasn't following this thread now, the amount of tinkering thats going on which I so wish I had the knowledge, facilities and finances to do is really annoying me
And to top it off would so love a Stratos rep to do it on, keep it up, makes my mundane musings in a friends garage look very insignificant... Top work
Glad you apreciate the work that is going into this Project!And to top it off would so love a Stratos rep to do it on, keep it up, makes my mundane musings in a friends garage look very insignificant... Top work
Engine and box are together now and in the car. Adapter plate works great, only falt I have found with the design is we should have left more material around the starter mount...
but its no big deal and easily fixed with a blanking plate...
Now it just remains to check the clutch works & then refit all the ancilliays etc......
Well Clutch worked So the rebuild continued, Finished it today, after a couple of minor modifications to some pipes etc (due to moving the engine. Filled all the fluids this morning and it fired up first time (after I primed the oil with th einjectors turned off)
Ran th eengine upto temperature and checked all the fluids topped up the water a touch & ran the engine again, only to find water emitting from the expansion tank vent- thats normal, but it didnt stop... after there was a good sized pool on the garage floor I stopped and investigated.... turns out there is oil in the water and water in the oil
Further investigation traced the source to the newly rebuilt Laminova oil cooler......well at least thats better than the other option of a blown head gasket!
I did thing the sealings on the cooler were lacking somthing, but the new ones wer OEM, so i assumed they were good. And I was ultra carefull during the assembly.... anyway its happened now, and I am away at work on monday, so it wont get fully sorted till I am back next year. For now I will get as much of the water out of the oil as I can and fix the water side later.
I am wary of trying to overhaul the cooler again, so might go for a fully welded design. If I do overhaul the cooler it will be pressure tested this time!
Anyone got any good ideas of the best product to use for getting the oil out of the cooling system???
Ran th eengine upto temperature and checked all the fluids topped up the water a touch & ran the engine again, only to find water emitting from the expansion tank vent- thats normal, but it didnt stop... after there was a good sized pool on the garage floor I stopped and investigated.... turns out there is oil in the water and water in the oil
Further investigation traced the source to the newly rebuilt Laminova oil cooler......well at least thats better than the other option of a blown head gasket!
I did thing the sealings on the cooler were lacking somthing, but the new ones wer OEM, so i assumed they were good. And I was ultra carefull during the assembly.... anyway its happened now, and I am away at work on monday, so it wont get fully sorted till I am back next year. For now I will get as much of the water out of the oil as I can and fix the water side later.
I am wary of trying to overhaul the cooler again, so might go for a fully welded design. If I do overhaul the cooler it will be pressure tested this time!
Anyone got any good ideas of the best product to use for getting the oil out of the cooling system???
It was all going so well, Everything went back together well, no real issues, all the new parts fitted & then it went down hill rapidly.... Still an oil cooler is an easy fix compared to a head gasket, its just the hassle of cleaning out the water system...
And to top off a bad day I managed to burn my arm on the exhaust!
And to top off a bad day I managed to burn my arm on the exhaust!
If it's any respite i once burnt my forehead twice within 2 secs.
Lying under the car jacked up off the ground, trying to get a look at a front heater hose from underneath, leaned too close to the downpipe and burnt my forehead, reacted by pulling my head away which cracked off the floor and then fired my forehead back into the downpipe burning it a second time.
I was left with a lump on the back and 2 burns on the front. Smashin.
Getting oil out of your waterways completely is going to be hard. I'd constantly flush with water and then follow up with a stronger mix of coolant straight after. Change again after a few heat cycles.
Lying under the car jacked up off the ground, trying to get a look at a front heater hose from underneath, leaned too close to the downpipe and burnt my forehead, reacted by pulling my head away which cracked off the floor and then fired my forehead back into the downpipe burning it a second time.
I was left with a lump on the back and 2 burns on the front. Smashin.
Getting oil out of your waterways completely is going to be hard. I'd constantly flush with water and then follow up with a stronger mix of coolant straight after. Change again after a few heat cycles.
I once had an oil/water heat exchanger fail, but not in a car... but in a multi machine manufacturing unit. I feel your pain.
But we had to deal with 200 liters of oil in the machine which was contaminated but also had over 2000 liters of water that had a couple of liters of oil in for good measure
Draining the water without shutting down the plant wasnt an option, we had to keep running and we had to clean the oil out. Fortunately the oil floats to the top, we had special soak pads that absorbed the oil and not the water. It took a good 24 hours but eventually we cleaned the oil out of the water.
I did something similar recently with a Golf with a contaminated water system, After flushing the block and rad with clean water through a hose, running the engine with the cap off made the oil come to the surface of the expansion tank. Dipping a strong tissue into the water would pull the oil off the surface of the water to get the final dreggs of oil from the system.
But we had to deal with 200 liters of oil in the machine which was contaminated but also had over 2000 liters of water that had a couple of liters of oil in for good measure
Draining the water without shutting down the plant wasnt an option, we had to keep running and we had to clean the oil out. Fortunately the oil floats to the top, we had special soak pads that absorbed the oil and not the water. It took a good 24 hours but eventually we cleaned the oil out of the water.
I did something similar recently with a Golf with a contaminated water system, After flushing the block and rad with clean water through a hose, running the engine with the cap off made the oil come to the surface of the expansion tank. Dipping a strong tissue into the water would pull the oil off the surface of the water to get the final dreggs of oil from the system.
Handy hint for getting the oil out of waterways is to put household washing powder (or drop a tablet in) and then run the car up to temperature for a while. This turns all the oil into a white milky solution which no longer allows the oil droplets to stick to the insides of pipes in that salad cream type stuff you probably have atm after the water pump has whipped it up. It's then a case of running through the water system with a hose to flush out the milky solution and eventually you get back to clear water again.
Sounds crazy I know but use this method all the time when flushing through C20XE/LET engines after repair from pourous heads for example
Sounds crazy I know but use this method all the time when flushing through C20XE/LET engines after repair from pourous heads for example
stevesingo said:
Nutter,
I once finished an engine build only to have a forign object drop down the spark plug hole whilst cranking to check ign timing. New piston, bearings valves and block. £3500 in parts to put right. Your's is a minor setback.
Ouch! That sounds like a disaster! Makes my problem insignificant really...I once finished an engine build only to have a forign object drop down the spark plug hole whilst cranking to check ign timing. New piston, bearings valves and block. £3500 in parts to put right. Your's is a minor setback.
Gassing Station | Engines & Drivetrain | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff