What Engine for 500BHP
Discussion
ked, don't change the coolant for a worse option just because something else is broken....stevieturbo said:
one eyed mick]Not used Evans or any other waterless yet but will be doing soon [not Evans said:
basically it too expensive £65 ish a litre and unless the system is dry a similar price for prep/flush -- £1200 for a 10 litre system ??? . Top ups must not be water or it degrades love the idea but not the price!!!
Got your facts wrong a bit there.Circa £65 per gallon.
Max_Torque said:
Unless you really are madder than old Mad Jack McMad, from Maddington, Madsville, you really don't want to run with zero coolant pressure. Your water pump will cavitate like a bi**h!
Marine architects spend their entire lives working on cavitation. I'm not a marine architect, I'm not going to spend more than a few moments on the issue. BUT cavitation is a function of vapour pressure. If the coolant doesn't vapourise, no cavitation. Simple. Essentially, water will vapourise (and cavitate), pretty much regardless of pressure -- ask a local submarine commander.
A Google for "waterless coolant and cavitation" will throw up more than anyone who is not a marine architect would ever wish to know.
Back home again and doing a few jobs on the car, one of which is re-aranging the pipework at the front of the car to fit the remote thermostat for th eengine cooling, and to make space to run the Anti roll bar... The engine coolant pipes are sorted, just need some silicon elbows.
The charge cooler piping could also do with tidying up, at the moment they cross the car so that the hot goes to the top of the charge cooler pre rad and the return comes out of the bottom.
It would be neater to just run the pipes straight to the pre rad, but that would have the hot water going in at the bottom - my question is - how important is it to have the hot entering at the top, given that my radiator flows horizontally i am guessing it wont make much difference???
The charge cooler piping could also do with tidying up, at the moment they cross the car so that the hot goes to the top of the charge cooler pre rad and the return comes out of the bottom.
It would be neater to just run the pipes straight to the pre rad, but that would have the hot water going in at the bottom - my question is - how important is it to have the hot entering at the top, given that my radiator flows horizontally i am guessing it wont make much difference???
There was a clip on Youtube filmed with an IR camera that showed heat displacement in a trucks radiator. The owner had made similar modifications to and needed to have both radiator pipes at the bottom to clear an intercooler. The owner of the truck (Duramax) couldn't work out why it kept overheating.
While the bottom of the radiator was white hot the top was barely blue as the water dissipated through the radiator along the path of least resistance.
My guess is it would be the same for you.
While the bottom of the radiator was white hot the top was barely blue as the water dissipated through the radiator along the path of least resistance.
My guess is it would be the same for you.
Liquid Knight said:
There was a clip on Youtube filmed with an IR camera that showed heat displacement in a trucks radiator. The owner had made similar modifications to and needed to have both radiator pipes at the bottom to clear an intercooler. The owner of the truck (Duramax) couldn't work out why it kept overheating.
While the bottom of the radiator was white hot the top was barely blue as the water dissipated through the radiator along the path of least resistance.
My guess is it would be the same for you.
I can see why having both inlet and outlet at the bottom would cause poor performance, as the water would short circuit the top of the radiator, but i would have inlet at the bottom on one side and the outlet on the top at the other side, with the pump supplying water to the radiator, so it should work.....While the bottom of the radiator was white hot the top was barely blue as the water dissipated through the radiator along the path of least resistance.
My guess is it would be the same for you.
Making it dual pass would still mean on eof the pipes having to cross over to the other side...
While I have the engine out I plan to modify the fuel tank, to increase the capacity by about 10 litres, which is about 20%, so will help with the range on the road a lot...
The tank will be shaped like this, so is quite wide...
The fuel outlet has to go where it is as that is the only place available.
the below is a plan view of the base of the proposed tank, showing my proposed pickup pipe, in orange - this will turn down at the end so it is 2mm from the bottom of the tank. The red dotted line is a proposed baffle about 100mm high to try and keep fuel around the pickup when the tank is getting empty. The Reurn from the swirl pot will also go into this area.
Will this Baffle help or is there somthing else i could look at.
Tank Base is 520mm wide and 280mm across...
The tank will be shaped like this, so is quite wide...
The fuel outlet has to go where it is as that is the only place available.
the below is a plan view of the base of the proposed tank, showing my proposed pickup pipe, in orange - this will turn down at the end so it is 2mm from the bottom of the tank. The red dotted line is a proposed baffle about 100mm high to try and keep fuel around the pickup when the tank is getting empty. The Reurn from the swirl pot will also go into this area.
Will this Baffle help or is there somthing else i could look at.
Tank Base is 520mm wide and 280mm across...
Edited by turbonutter on Monday 20th January 18:01
I cant see any red dotted line etc ?
Seems a lot of work and cost for relatively small increase in capacity ?
If you have a decent external swirl pot, then the pickups in the main tank whilst still important, are slightly less critical.
Just apply some sensible baffling inside, or foam etc and it should be fine. The upright nature of the tank should help with a lot of surge issues
If you needed some more extra capacity, you could gain some via a larger swirl tank too.
Seems a lot of work and cost for relatively small increase in capacity ?
If you have a decent external swirl pot, then the pickups in the main tank whilst still important, are slightly less critical.
Just apply some sensible baffling inside, or foam etc and it should be fine. The upright nature of the tank should help with a lot of surge issues
If you needed some more extra capacity, you could gain some via a larger swirl tank too.
Given the tank isnt directly feeding the engine, I dont see it being a problem.
You could build that right side of the tank almost as another collector, whether with trapdoors, or fill the rest with foam and leave that section with none. All moves to encourage fuel to end up in that area.
But it would only be an issue on long left handers when fuel is low, and even then, only when the swirl tank also ran low enough which would lead to the engine noticing any lack of fuel
In short....I wouldnt worry about it too much.
You could build that right side of the tank almost as another collector, whether with trapdoors, or fill the rest with foam and leave that section with none. All moves to encourage fuel to end up in that area.
But it would only be an issue on long left handers when fuel is low, and even then, only when the swirl tank also ran low enough which would lead to the engine noticing any lack of fuel
In short....I wouldnt worry about it too much.
Baffle and chamber that side as you have drawn in red. Or maybe section it off from the rest of the tank is a better description.
Then fill the rest of the cell with foam.
Just make sure there is some means of fuel having easy entry to that side, with less easy exit.
But it doesnt need to be fancy or elaborate.
IMO, always handy to add extra spare fittings when making the tank, and some sort of access panel in case you need to remove/inspect the foam and/or clean the tank out.
Plans can change at later dates, so an extra outlet and inlet etc can be handy. and are easy plugged off when not used.
Then fill the rest of the cell with foam.
Just make sure there is some means of fuel having easy entry to that side, with less easy exit.
But it doesnt need to be fancy or elaborate.
IMO, always handy to add extra spare fittings when making the tank, and some sort of access panel in case you need to remove/inspect the foam and/or clean the tank out.
Plans can change at later dates, so an extra outlet and inlet etc can be handy. and are easy plugged off when not used.
Well tank ordered with simple baffle & foam filled - the old tank was never an issue unless very empty, so this one should be fine... I am nearly out of leave so this will be ready for my return.
Same with the new pistons, they are ordered with 3cc less volume to drop the compression slightly.
The dish isnow double the depth at 5.2mm, but still leaves 5.5mm of material above the con rod, so should be plenty strong enough.
Same with the new pistons, they are ordered with 3cc less volume to drop the compression slightly.
The dish isnow double the depth at 5.2mm, but still leaves 5.5mm of material above the con rod, so should be plenty strong enough.
While I am over in Houston Next week for work I am picking up a new ECU. As its made in the USA, it saves on shipping and VAT.
I had thought of upgrading the Haltech ECU, with additional inputs and utilizing a small tablet pc so as to get better logging, but looking at the cost of that, together with the cost of adding a seperate traction control system, it made more sense to upgrade the ECU and get one that would do everything I wanted. If I can sell the Haltech ECU then I could even have saved money!
The New ECU will be an AEM Infinity 8, which will do everything I need and more...
I had thought of upgrading the Haltech ECU, with additional inputs and utilizing a small tablet pc so as to get better logging, but looking at the cost of that, together with the cost of adding a seperate traction control system, it made more sense to upgrade the ECU and get one that would do everything I wanted. If I can sell the Haltech ECU then I could even have saved money!
The New ECU will be an AEM Infinity 8, which will do everything I need and more...
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