Supercharged 2.5 944 project.
Discussion
Does anyone know of any good books ref all this?
I have a good but basic understanding of it all but I'd like to learn more about the tuning side of things as well as detonation and everything that goes with that.
I muddled thru with the v8 I tuned in my old capri but this is no doubt going to be alot more difficult.
I have a good but basic understanding of it all but I'd like to learn more about the tuning side of things as well as detonation and everything that goes with that.
I muddled thru with the v8 I tuned in my old capri but this is no doubt going to be alot more difficult.
My project now has a oily 944 S2 lump sitting on the garage floor & after a few measurements have decided that I wish to keep the 16V head on the S2, especially seeing that a 2.7 8V head which is a straight fit to the 3Litre block come very expensive, the only one I could find, they wanted £450+VAT & shipping for Shocked
Also seems silly to downrate the engine then tune it.
So centrifugal superchargers are much smaller & are in fact what 9Meister used on their 968 car. So have just won this on E Bay! These are around 10x10x8 inches so not much bigger than an alternator, they can also provide much more boost than a Roots style blower off a Mercedes.
So next step will be some engine management, probably megasquirt & then the project can start in earnest, well Chatham anyway
http://tinyurl.com/39tt34
Also seems silly to downrate the engine then tune it.
So centrifugal superchargers are much smaller & are in fact what 9Meister used on their 968 car. So have just won this on E Bay! These are around 10x10x8 inches so not much bigger than an alternator, they can also provide much more boost than a Roots style blower off a Mercedes.
So next step will be some engine management, probably megasquirt & then the project can start in earnest, well Chatham anyway
http://tinyurl.com/39tt34
Right guys, I have a problem!
I'm very nearly almost finished fitting a replacment engine to my car as the last one expired but I have one small problem.
The new engine I have is form an oval dash model and has a different temp sensor for the dash guage.
Any ideas how to get around this?
On the left is the new one with the new engine and on the right is the original. The original goes in the block in the same place but is a blind hole, it doesn't contact coolant whereas the new one does contact coolan and the thread is a larger dia.
I'm very nearly almost finished fitting a replacment engine to my car as the last one expired but I have one small problem.
The new engine I have is form an oval dash model and has a different temp sensor for the dash guage.
Any ideas how to get around this?
On the left is the new one with the new engine and on the right is the original. The original goes in the block in the same place but is a blind hole, it doesn't contact coolant whereas the new one does contact coolan and the thread is a larger dia.
Edited by ihatesissycars on Saturday 29th December 22:53
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissyc...
Here's me offering the charger up to it possible new home, not much room!
I didn't realise just how big the SN93 is, also the outlet facing the wrong way is going to be a sod.
I think it may be wise to flog it and save (it'll take a while) for a rotrex, whaddaya reckon?
Here's me offering the charger up to it possible new home, not much room!
I didn't realise just how big the SN93 is, also the outlet facing the wrong way is going to be a sod.
I think it may be wise to flog it and save (it'll take a while) for a rotrex, whaddaya reckon?
Reference your temp sensor.
I would first go to someone like BGC Motorsport and see if they have, or can make you, an adaptor but you will first need to know the thread sizes.
If that failed I would cut the top off the new (larger) sensor and tap the inside of it to take the old sensor. If there is not the material there to make the new thread I would just glue it in using something like plastic metal.
Steve
I would first go to someone like BGC Motorsport and see if they have, or can make you, an adaptor but you will first need to know the thread sizes.
If that failed I would cut the top off the new (larger) sensor and tap the inside of it to take the old sensor. If there is not the material there to make the new thread I would just glue it in using something like plastic metal.
Steve
I've since learnt that the newer sender has a terminal for a guage and one for a warning light so all I need to do it put the original wire to the larger spade terminal! Yippee!!
However, its running but I have no oil pressure so I'm trying everything I can to prime the pump which is boring and doing my head in!
However, its running but I have no oil pressure so I'm trying everything I can to prime the pump which is boring and doing my head in!
OH yes I had to take a run up to tighten that bad boy.
Zero everywhere. I've had the filter off and cranked it with now't coming out of it so I've poured oil into the centre hole of the filter housing to back fill the pump and then cranked it then did the same, turned the engine over backwards by had then cranked it, now't. THEN I did all that again but filled the housing cente hole up with some STP engine treatment/treacle, backwards by hand, rigged up a bicycle pump with tube to fit the housing cente hold, pressurised it (that even registered on the oil pressure guage) then cranked it with now't coming out.
The replacement engine was sat epmty of oil and no filter so I'm assuming the pump has lost its prime.
It does run (I only ran it for a second or three) and the lifters were noisey so there's no oil up top.
I can't imagine the pickup pipe has developed a fault so it has to be pump related.
I'm now at that stage where I want to forget I own it and hope it goes away.
Zero everywhere. I've had the filter off and cranked it with now't coming out of it so I've poured oil into the centre hole of the filter housing to back fill the pump and then cranked it then did the same, turned the engine over backwards by had then cranked it, now't. THEN I did all that again but filled the housing cente hole up with some STP engine treatment/treacle, backwards by hand, rigged up a bicycle pump with tube to fit the housing cente hold, pressurised it (that even registered on the oil pressure guage) then cranked it with now't coming out.
The replacement engine was sat epmty of oil and no filter so I'm assuming the pump has lost its prime.
It does run (I only ran it for a second or three) and the lifters were noisey so there's no oil up top.
I can't imagine the pickup pipe has developed a fault so it has to be pump related.
I'm now at that stage where I want to forget I own it and hope it goes away.
It came from douglas valley who are a reputable place know for constantly breaking flash cars.
Thats not to say its not f**ked though.
I hope to god it aint as I really can't be bothered to take anothe engine out again.
I'm going to strip the pressure relief valve out next.
Is that behind the pressure switch/sender? SHould it fly out when I remove the sender?
Thats not to say its not f**ked though.
I hope to god it aint as I really can't be bothered to take anothe engine out again.
I'm going to strip the pressure relief valve out next.
Is that behind the pressure switch/sender? SHould it fly out when I remove the sender?
No its behind a 19 mm head bolt if i remember correctly. On the early engine it was a spring and steel slug. Not played with the later one in my 89 lux but i believe it is 3 piece and you have to be carefull on the alignment. (special tool?)
Did you have a look at clarks garage? loads of tech details in the workshop and on the forum.
Did you have a look at clarks garage? loads of tech details in the workshop and on the forum.
On some engines where Ive had priming issues....
I used a vacuum drain tool ( the big 4+litre jobbies that you pump to create a vacuum ) and attached this to an oilway in the engine.
Whether at an oil pressure switch or similar. Pump up the vacuum at this point to try and suck oil through, then spin the engine over on the starter ( no plugs etc ).
This has always worked for me.....although you do need a good vacuum source.
I used a vacuum drain tool ( the big 4+litre jobbies that you pump to create a vacuum ) and attached this to an oilway in the engine.
Whether at an oil pressure switch or similar. Pump up the vacuum at this point to try and suck oil through, then spin the engine over on the starter ( no plugs etc ).
This has always worked for me.....although you do need a good vacuum source.
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