Supercharged 2.5 944 project.
Discussion
I feel like a twit.
I made the mistake of assuming.
I assumed it would actually have a relief valve in it. Silly me. It was missing.
WHY THE F**K WAS IT MISSING GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Why would they remove it????????
Anyways its in, running and has spot on oil pressure (I used the relief valve and spring from my old engine) although it sounds like a plumbers tool bag in a tumble dryer.
The lifters have no doubt drained and they're a bit clattery. Hopefull this will clear or I'm still back to square one again with a useless engine.
When will it end. . . . .
I made the mistake of assuming.
I assumed it would actually have a relief valve in it. Silly me. It was missing.
WHY THE F**K WAS IT MISSING GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Why would they remove it????????
Anyways its in, running and has spot on oil pressure (I used the relief valve and spring from my old engine) although it sounds like a plumbers tool bag in a tumble dryer.
The lifters have no doubt drained and they're a bit clattery. Hopefull this will clear or I'm still back to square one again with a useless engine.
When will it end. . . . .
hi, i am new around here..i haven't read all the post from this thread.. but i would like to show you my setup maybe you would be inspired
i also have a 85.5 944 n/a witch i have rebuild as much as possible..specially the engine where i have rebuild it entirely..
i have also mounted a supercharger (eaton m90) ..i want to say that the car is running great..now i can feel that the car is having the power that is needed for example before this i was getting 16.7sec for 0-400m ..now i have 14.4sec ..witch is big improvement ..
i do not know on witch route u want to go..but maybe this will help..
oops..i haven't found where to attach photo..
i also have a 85.5 944 n/a witch i have rebuild as much as possible..specially the engine where i have rebuild it entirely..
i have also mounted a supercharger (eaton m90) ..i want to say that the car is running great..now i can feel that the car is having the power that is needed for example before this i was getting 16.7sec for 0-400m ..now i have 14.4sec ..witch is big improvement ..
i do not know on witch route u want to go..but maybe this will help..
oops..i haven't found where to attach photo..
Hmmmm well so far so good.
No lifter clattter, no over flowing header tanks, a few air gaps still exist but they're slowly reducing.
The only things thats bothering me is the temp guage movement.
Before with the old engine and its older style sensor it would sit where the blue arrow points and take ages to move. When it did it would go to the middle line, maybe a needles width past it where the fans would come on and it would then move back down the blue arrow and stay there again.
Now it sits within the green area (it does move up and down a bit within this area) whilst moving and if you stop and let it idle it will move up to maybe two needles widths past the centre, fan comes on and then move down to the green area again.
Water level in the tanks is fairly stable, maybe fluctuating by an inch with no water loss.
I know its operating within the normal range and therefore should be ok but its different to before so I'm concerned.
I can only put it down to 3 things,
1, difference in resistance in the sensors at the same temp.
2, the original sensor doesn't touch water and the new one does, maybe block temp rather than water temp is slightly lower and more stable and the guage is now displaying a true temp more accurately?
3, its about to go BOOOOOOOOM!!!!!!!!!!!
Please someone put my mind at rest!
No lifter clattter, no over flowing header tanks, a few air gaps still exist but they're slowly reducing.
The only things thats bothering me is the temp guage movement.
Before with the old engine and its older style sensor it would sit where the blue arrow points and take ages to move. When it did it would go to the middle line, maybe a needles width past it where the fans would come on and it would then move back down the blue arrow and stay there again.
Now it sits within the green area (it does move up and down a bit within this area) whilst moving and if you stop and let it idle it will move up to maybe two needles widths past the centre, fan comes on and then move down to the green area again.
Water level in the tanks is fairly stable, maybe fluctuating by an inch with no water loss.
I know its operating within the normal range and therefore should be ok but its different to before so I'm concerned.
I can only put it down to 3 things,
1, difference in resistance in the sensors at the same temp.
2, the original sensor doesn't touch water and the new one does, maybe block temp rather than water temp is slightly lower and more stable and the guage is now displaying a true temp more accurately?
3, its about to go BOOOOOOOOM!!!!!!!!!!!
Please someone put my mind at rest!
Edited by ihatesissycars on Saturday 5th January 16:08
On my engine when I converted it I installed a small silicon hose, T piece and clamp on the top hose so I can measure the temp of the water as it comes out of the head. I do this with a multimeter and accurate temp sensor which I double checked first, just didn't want to rely on the ECU or the stock engine sensors.
As it turns out they are within 1C or each other.
As it turns out they are within 1C or each other.
ihatesissycars said:
Hi guys,
is there any advantage to using a 944t inlet manifold and throttle body on my planned engine?
Also, does anyone know what size turbo injectors are?
Ta!
Gav
Ps, hasn't gone BOOOOOOOM yet. . . . .
I believe that 944 T injectors are different to the norm, something about not being high or low impedance.is there any advantage to using a 944t inlet manifold and throttle body on my planned engine?
Also, does anyone know what size turbo injectors are?
Ta!
Gav
Ps, hasn't gone BOOOOOOOM yet. . . . .
I may have a spare Turbo inlet manifold up for grabs if you need one.
ihatesissycars said:
Hello,
Is there any benefit to using it over a stock n/a manifold?
I think it gives a bit more space for the blower, not actually done a direct comparison. It was available & I took it when offered, now going full 16V so probably won't use it but one solution in the US uses a hybrid 16V against the head with the turbo runners welded to it.Is there any benefit to using it over a stock n/a manifold?
The turbo injectors have a higer impedance than the N/A.I think the turbo throttle body has a proper tps rather than open or closed.
Starting a similer project myself with a 2.7 lux
I'm starting at the fuel and timing before charging. Just ordered microsquirt as it can be made to work with the standard speed and reference sensors.
Starting a similer project myself with a 2.7 lux
I'm starting at the fuel and timing before charging. Just ordered microsquirt as it can be made to work with the standard speed and reference sensors.
james0 said:
Just ordered microsquirt as it can be made to work with the standard speed and reference sensors.
Oh really! Tell me more!!! I must confess that I've not actually had a proper look at the timing teeth on the pressure palte, its just a continuos ring isn't it with the other sensor picking up the screw in stud to figure out engine position?Just looked at mine, all Bosch management seems to use 60-2 @120 BTDC.
This apparently is a standard (used by Vauxhalls as well) the Pork is no different, so it looks like the flywheel trigger can be used. Only problem is Megasquirt seems to be Bl00dy confusing on the subject!
Still not made up my mind what to use.
This apparently is a standard (used by Vauxhalls as well) the Pork is no different, so it looks like the flywheel trigger can be used. Only problem is Megasquirt seems to be Bl00dy confusing on the subject!
Still not made up my mind what to use.
Gassing Station | Engines & Drivetrain | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff