Recommend me a good quality 3/8th spanner
Discussion
Hi,
I've swapped the manifold bolts on the Griffith and now have the ARP 3/8 stainless bolts.
I swapped them because spanner access is so difficult with the original 14mm headed bolts but I still have the problemto a lesser extent with the new bolts.
Some are never going to allow a socket or ratchet spanner on them, so an open ended is the only choice (isn't it?)
I have a set of Halfords Pro imperial spanners and the 3/8ths is just opening up under the sort of tension you need for manifold bolts.
So I'm back to using an old nondescript thing from my toolbox which is much stronger
I'm mightily unimpressed that the halfords pro seems to have such little tensile strength before springing open and want a decent spanner to replace it which doesn't have a massively clunky head so it will fit into the tight space I have. Can someone recommend one for me.
It's just one spanner for now and its important, so cost isn't an issue.
ta
Ian
I've swapped the manifold bolts on the Griffith and now have the ARP 3/8 stainless bolts.
I swapped them because spanner access is so difficult with the original 14mm headed bolts but I still have the problemto a lesser extent with the new bolts.
Some are never going to allow a socket or ratchet spanner on them, so an open ended is the only choice (isn't it?)
I have a set of Halfords Pro imperial spanners and the 3/8ths is just opening up under the sort of tension you need for manifold bolts.
So I'm back to using an old nondescript thing from my toolbox which is much stronger
I'm mightily unimpressed that the halfords pro seems to have such little tensile strength before springing open and want a decent spanner to replace it which doesn't have a massively clunky head so it will fit into the tight space I have. Can someone recommend one for me.
It's just one spanner for now and its important, so cost isn't an issue.
ta
Ian
Snap on seems like the obvious choice.
However.. if the bolt is very tight you will still risk stripping the head even with a high quality spanner.
Is there no way you can move whatever is in the way and get a short socket on there? (you can buy sockets that are shorter than normal for these difficult jobs.
Another option may be to weld an old 6 sided socket to a bit of 5mm steel sheet. Cut the socket up if necicary.
However.. if the bolt is very tight you will still risk stripping the head even with a high quality spanner.
Is there no way you can move whatever is in the way and get a short socket on there? (you can buy sockets that are shorter than normal for these difficult jobs.
Another option may be to weld an old 6 sided socket to a bit of 5mm steel sheet. Cut the socket up if necicary.
Thanks for the quick reply Holst.
the problem is the proximity of the manifold itself to the bolt head and the way the tubing rolls, impeding any chance of getting a socket in, even if it was a thin walled one.
I'm not trying to get the bolt so tight so there is a risk of stripping the thread - He says, touching wood and crossing fingers for luck - but because its a manifold bolt it needs to be reasonably tight and I'm surprised just how little pressure is necessary to get the Halfords Pro spanner to open up.
Sounds like I need to invest in a snap-on spanner then, is there a British equivalent? Britool?
the problem is the proximity of the manifold itself to the bolt head and the way the tubing rolls, impeding any chance of getting a socket in, even if it was a thin walled one.
I'm not trying to get the bolt so tight so there is a risk of stripping the thread - He says, touching wood and crossing fingers for luck - but because its a manifold bolt it needs to be reasonably tight and I'm surprised just how little pressure is necessary to get the Halfords Pro spanner to open up.
Sounds like I need to invest in a snap-on spanner then, is there a British equivalent? Britool?
Sorry I didnt read the original post properly.
You cant go wrong buying snap on tools and if you look in the yellow pages or google you should be able to find a supplier in your area. I generally get mine from a franchise guy who visits the local garage. I call him when I want something and buy it when he is in the area, but there will be a propper tool place near you that stocks snap on stuff. My dad uses Facom stuff which is also very good if you cant find snapon in your area.
If you have some spare money, go over the car and work out what tools you really need to do most jobs, then just buy the tools you need.
I also have a halfords pro kit, and it is pretty good for the money.
Recently I have been replacing my most regularly used tools for snap on ones, as I found that only need about 5 spanners for every job on the car.
80% of my halfords tools will never be used on my current car, and I should have spent the same money on higher quality tools to begin with.
You cant go wrong buying snap on tools and if you look in the yellow pages or google you should be able to find a supplier in your area. I generally get mine from a franchise guy who visits the local garage. I call him when I want something and buy it when he is in the area, but there will be a propper tool place near you that stocks snap on stuff. My dad uses Facom stuff which is also very good if you cant find snapon in your area.
If you have some spare money, go over the car and work out what tools you really need to do most jobs, then just buy the tools you need.
I also have a halfords pro kit, and it is pretty good for the money.
Recently I have been replacing my most regularly used tools for snap on ones, as I found that only need about 5 spanners for every job on the car.
80% of my halfords tools will never be used on my current car, and I should have spent the same money on higher quality tools to begin with.
Barreti said:
Thanks for the quick reply Holst.
the problem is the proximity of the manifold itself to the bolt head and the way the tubing rolls, impeding any chance of getting a socket in, even if it was a thin walled one.
I'm not trying to get the bolt so tight so there is a risk of stripping the thread - He says, touching wood and crossing fingers for luck - but because its a manifold bolt it needs to be reasonably tight and I'm surprised just how little pressure is necessary to get the Halfords Pro spanner to open up.
Sounds like I need to invest in a snap-on spanner then, is there a British equivalent? Britool?
Britool simply won't spring. Never had the need for anything more expensive and that was when I was in heavy engineering. You can even grind chunks off them if access is tight and they don't seem to mind too much.the problem is the proximity of the manifold itself to the bolt head and the way the tubing rolls, impeding any chance of getting a socket in, even if it was a thin walled one.
I'm not trying to get the bolt so tight so there is a risk of stripping the thread - He says, touching wood and crossing fingers for luck - but because its a manifold bolt it needs to be reasonably tight and I'm surprised just how little pressure is necessary to get the Halfords Pro spanner to open up.
Sounds like I need to invest in a snap-on spanner then, is there a British equivalent? Britool?
GreenV8S said:
How much torque are you applying? The Halfords Pro range are generally regarded as decent kit and should easily cope with a few manifold bolts.
Don't know really GreenV8S - just a decent turn to make sure the manifold is clamped and won't undo. Perhaps I'm overcompensating because the bolt has come loose twice already, but I'd expect not to be able to turn the bolt with a different spanner if that was the case, but I could still turn it.jimmystratos said:
Can you replace with a socket-head bolt that you can put an Allen key or hex-drive on?
Mmmm, I don't know jimmystratos, its a thought and I'll have a look when I'm underneath it again tomorrow.jimmystratos said:
Can you replace with a socket-head bolt that you can put an Allen key or hex-drive on?
Worth a try. I use hex head (cap screws) on my turbo manifolds, with a cut-down allen key. @ the O/P - are you using proper manifold bolts, with the smaller heads like these:
http://www.v8tuner.co.uk/product.php?id=222
Barreti said:
Hi,
I've swapped the manifold bolts on the Griffith and now have the ARP 3/8 stainless bolts.
I swapped them because spanner access is so difficult with the original 14mm headed bolts but I still have the problemto a lesser extent with the new bolts.
Some are never going to allow a socket or ratchet spanner on them, so an open ended is the only choice (isn't it?)
I have a set of Halfords Pro imperial spanners and the 3/8ths is just opening up under the sort of tension you need for manifold bolts.
So I'm back to using an old nondescript thing from my toolbox which is much stronger
I'm mightily unimpressed that the halfords pro seems to have such little tensile strength before springing open and want a decent spanner to replace it which doesn't have a massively clunky head so it will fit into the tight space I have. Can someone recommend one for me.
It's just one spanner for now and its important, so cost isn't an issue.
ta
Ian
Hi Ian,if you can wait till tomorrow i will give you the snap on part no,s to the only 2 Snap on spanners you will ever need for those ARP boltsI've swapped the manifold bolts on the Griffith and now have the ARP 3/8 stainless bolts.
I swapped them because spanner access is so difficult with the original 14mm headed bolts but I still have the problemto a lesser extent with the new bolts.
Some are never going to allow a socket or ratchet spanner on them, so an open ended is the only choice (isn't it?)
I have a set of Halfords Pro imperial spanners and the 3/8ths is just opening up under the sort of tension you need for manifold bolts.
So I'm back to using an old nondescript thing from my toolbox which is much stronger
I'm mightily unimpressed that the halfords pro seems to have such little tensile strength before springing open and want a decent spanner to replace it which doesn't have a massively clunky head so it will fit into the tight space I have. Can someone recommend one for me.
It's just one spanner for now and its important, so cost isn't an issue.
ta
Ian
11mm Flexible Head ratchet spanner from Halfords
Slightly bigger than 3/8th to help getting the spanner over the head of the bolt/nut in awkward places.
Flexible head allows easier access and ratchet allows you to tighten/loosen without faffing about.
Mini nuts recommend them for access to 3/8 lower clutch cover bolts as they are nigh on impossible to access any other way without A: removing engine/gearbox or B: cutting a hole in the sub frame.
Slightly bigger than 3/8th to help getting the spanner over the head of the bolt/nut in awkward places.
Flexible head allows easier access and ratchet allows you to tighten/loosen without faffing about.
Mini nuts recommend them for access to 3/8 lower clutch cover bolts as they are nigh on impossible to access any other way without A: removing engine/gearbox or B: cutting a hole in the sub frame.
I reckon I can get to about 12 or so of the 16 bolts with a ring, but there is one specifically - Nearside, bottom, 2nd bolt back which I can only reach from under the car, with the spanner held at finger tips length and which would never get a ring spanner on. And for those with a RV8 who might be thinking of their manifold bolts and thinking WTF is he on about, don't forget this is a special stainless manifold, not the original one.
The problem is not whether I can get to the bolt, but the rubbish quality of the Halfords pro spanner.
For instance, the bolts needed tightening again at the weekend (new gaskets) so I used the Halfords on the front bolt and stopped levering when it started to spring but before it rounded the edges off the bolt.
The cheap spanner took the bolt about 1/8th of a turn more.
Thats not a problem if I can get to the bolt and have room for the cheaper, bigger headed spanner, but the bolt I mentioned above is a real pig to reach without dropping the whole of the exhaust from the bellhousing back. So a nice long, quality, open ended spanner is a must.
I'm going to invest in the Snap-on I think (Thanks for the part numbers That Daddy).
But I'm in no rush so I'll continue to research all your other suggestions.
Is it possible I've just got a Friday afternoon special 3/8ths spanner and I should just take it back to Halfords and see what they say?
The problem is not whether I can get to the bolt, but the rubbish quality of the Halfords pro spanner.
For instance, the bolts needed tightening again at the weekend (new gaskets) so I used the Halfords on the front bolt and stopped levering when it started to spring but before it rounded the edges off the bolt.
The cheap spanner took the bolt about 1/8th of a turn more.
Thats not a problem if I can get to the bolt and have room for the cheaper, bigger headed spanner, but the bolt I mentioned above is a real pig to reach without dropping the whole of the exhaust from the bellhousing back. So a nice long, quality, open ended spanner is a must.
I'm going to invest in the Snap-on I think (Thanks for the part numbers That Daddy).
But I'm in no rush so I'll continue to research all your other suggestions.
Is it possible I've just got a Friday afternoon special 3/8ths spanner and I should just take it back to Halfords and see what they say?
Edited by Barreti on Monday 2nd June 16:49
HRG said:
Britool simply won't spring. Never had the need for anything more expensive and that was when I was in heavy engineering. You can even grind chunks off them if access is tight and they don't seem to mind too much.
A view I shared but having recently bought some new Britool tools I feel the quality has significantly deteriorated.I sheared an 8mm allen socket with minimum force, far less than I wanted to use.
Gassing Station | Engines & Drivetrain | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff