drysump pump on xflow lubricating my driveway

drysump pump on xflow lubricating my driveway

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janolesen

Original Poster:

5 posts

190 months

Saturday 14th June 2008
quotequote all
The car 1968 Lotus Seven with a 145hp 1600cc dry sumped xflow.

Oil is dripping after blats, it comes from the 5 port dry sump pump, apparently it comes where the metal tube(scavenges oil from the sump) is attached to the pump housing.

The metal tube feels loose but how do a tighten it? There is no nut and I cant see how it is fixed to the housing.

/jano

Edited by janolesen on Saturday 14th June 12:31

stevieturbo

17,268 posts

247 months

Saturday 14th June 2008
quotequote all
without pics, who knows.

Maybe its threaded, bonded, welded, fractured ???

janolesen

Original Poster:

5 posts

190 months

Monday 16th June 2008
quotequote all
yes, a picture would be helpfull.

and here it is:


All the other ports are with threads and nuts, this one I don't get.

/jano


Edited by janolesen on Monday 16th June 11:49


Edited by janolesen on Monday 16th June 11:51

stevieturbo

17,268 posts

247 months

Monday 16th June 2008
quotequote all
Looks like a push fit or crimp of some description...

I guess the only we to do anything, is to take it all apart to investigate.

Daveuk9xx

44 posts

190 months

Monday 16th June 2008
quotequote all
It's a press fit but by the looks of things it's not a very sturdy housing it's pressed into. Side loads from the hosepipe and vibration have probably loosened it off. That corroded bit doesn't look too clever either. A better solution would be to have an aluminium pipe stub made up to suit on the lathe out of a bit of bar end, pushed in at a light push fit and then TIG welded into place round the top. The corroded bit could be ground out and welded back up at the same time.

At a pinch you could just remove the existing stub (heat the casing up with a propane torch) and loctite it back in with something like Loctite 638 high strength retainer.

BTW, I do hope there isn't as much silicone sealant inside your engine as there is outside it. It's meant to be applied lightly not trowelled on.

Sam_68

9,939 posts

245 months

Monday 16th June 2008
quotequote all
Daveuk9xx said:
At a pinch you could just remove the existing stub (heat the casing up with a propane torch) and loctite it back in with something like Loctite 638 high strength retainer.
Alternatively, thoroughly degrease it externally then gob up around the joint with a nice, thick layer of chemical metal.

getmecoat

Pigeon

18,535 posts

246 months

Tuesday 17th June 2008
quotequote all
Sam_68 said:
Alternatively, thoroughly degrease it externally then gob up around the joint with a nice, thick layer of chemical metal.
yes Clean with wire wool then with acetone, and doggie it up with epoxy. It's not under pressure so all it has to do is cover the hole, more or less.

janolesen

Original Poster:

5 posts

190 months

Wednesday 18th June 2008
quotequote all
Thanks for the replys.

I'll do the quickfix with expoy now to fix the pain.
Removing the pumt is a engine out operations, so I'll find find a more durable solution this winter when the engine is out anyway for maintanence.

Thanks

/jano