Immobilisers - Basic principles
Discussion
Before I rip out my current Centurion Carguard immobilser, can anyone explain the basic principles of operation to help me understand where it is going wrong?
For example apart from locking out the fuel and ignition circuits when the transponder is out of range, would it also react to a drop in voltage as some car alarms do?
Despite renewing the transponder, the unit occasionally fails to activate the ignition and fuel pump circuits and flashes the normally steady red LED. The annoying thing is that I cannot work out what could have changed over night to cause the lock out.
For example apart from locking out the fuel and ignition circuits when the transponder is out of range, would it also react to a drop in voltage as some car alarms do?
Despite renewing the transponder, the unit occasionally fails to activate the ignition and fuel pump circuits and flashes the normally steady red LED. The annoying thing is that I cannot work out what could have changed over night to cause the lock out.
Edited by Red Cabbage on Monday 25th August 13:14
Nothing lasts forever....
Ive also seen people wire alarms to cut power circuits, instead of relay trigger circuits for immobilisation. Then the alarm circuits burn out over time, as they were never designed to carry loads.
Electronic good usually last a very long time, but they can also fail just as easily. The underbonnet area of a car, isnt always a nice environment.
Ive also seen people wire alarms to cut power circuits, instead of relay trigger circuits for immobilisation. Then the alarm circuits burn out over time, as they were never designed to carry loads.
Electronic good usually last a very long time, but they can also fail just as easily. The underbonnet area of a car, isnt always a nice environment.
stevieturbo said:
Nothing lasts forever....
Ive also seen people wire alarms to cut power circuits, instead of relay trigger circuits for immobilisation. Then the alarm circuits burn out over time, as they were never designed to carry loads.
Electronic good usually last a very long time, but they can also fail just as easily. The underbonnet area of a car, isnt always a nice environment.
I see your point.Ive also seen people wire alarms to cut power circuits, instead of relay trigger circuits for immobilisation. Then the alarm circuits burn out over time, as they were never designed to carry loads.
Electronic good usually last a very long time, but they can also fail just as easily. The underbonnet area of a car, isnt always a nice environment.
Agreed, aftermarket alarms and immobilisers have a hard job to do, they have to be installed after manufacture, mounted in a space not designed for them, connected to circuits that are already complete meaning they have to be split then reconnected, and it all depends on how capable the fitter is.
But even if fitted properly aftermarket alarms and immobilisers have several glaring flaws, not least they are scarily easy to pull out by a car thief, and that unless fitted properly they can have reliability issues, meaning the only person they immobilise is the owner.
Hence why I always remove them from cars I buy unless they are required by insurance.
Plus they irritate me!
But even if fitted properly aftermarket alarms and immobilisers have several glaring flaws, not least they are scarily easy to pull out by a car thief, and that unless fitted properly they can have reliability issues, meaning the only person they immobilise is the owner.
Hence why I always remove them from cars I buy unless they are required by insurance.
Plus they irritate me!
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