Renault Clio Steering U/J

Author
Discussion

mikdys

Original Poster:

212 posts

235 months

Saturday 13th September 2008
quotequote all
I have an old ('96) Clio diesel (65mpg commuting!). Recently, a lot of play has developed in the steering and it is being caused by joint in the steering column shaft just above where the bottom U/J fits on the rack. It appears to be a broken "shear/roll pin".

Does anyone know:

if the "shear/roll pins" can be easily relaced (I could buy new pins from an engineering supplies shop);

how to remove the column shaft and U/Js?

Thanks for any replies!

davebell1984

42 posts

199 months

Sunday 26th October 2008
quotequote all
If your referring to the uj on the steering column just before it connects to the rack then there is no roll pin, basically theres a rubber bush which is designed to take out some vibration from the steering system, the rubber bush over time wears away and your left with a slight vagueness when driving as theres some freeplay in the wheel, simplest method is to fill the gap on the uj with weld make sure your steering wheel is straight inline with the wheels when you do this, its a perfectly safe method, been tried and tested by many clio owners including myself and ive done a few, its either that or a new steering column

Dave

mikdys

Original Poster:

212 posts

235 months

Monday 27th October 2008
quotequote all
Thanks for the advice. I don't have access to a welder so I filled the gaps with some radio fixing brackets held in place with a jubilee clip at the top. Seems to have done the trick and will hopefully get the old thing through its next MOT at least.

totalacedude

2 posts

186 months

Thursday 30th October 2008
quotequote all
hi, have a simular problem, just bought a clio diesel for my sister and everything is in really good knick appart from the steering problem!
mine is really bad! doing 70 turning the wheel a bit will go where u want it, but then it goes some more... its all over the road!
i can also hear a slight bang over bumps etc! i was suspecting ball joints or simular, ie the ball banging in the socket!

the engine mounts seem ok, so have ruled out these banging

could this be u/j / ball joints? and or how would i diagnose!

could it be a combo of the steering u/j and ball joints? ??

cheers for ne info..

ian

mikdys

Original Poster:

212 posts

235 months

Thursday 30th October 2008
quotequote all
I'm guessing its the same problem as mine.

Where the steering column goes through the floor there is a large rubber cover (a bit like a "rubber bell"). Pull this up and away from the floor to see the shaft inside (you will need a torch of a light). You will see a u/j immediately on top of the steering rack and above this is an "oblong tube" with an inner "oblong tube". Rock the steering wheel and see if all the free play is here (it was with mine).

I think the welding idea sounds good. If I were you I would pay a small local garage to weld the "two oblong tubes together". (As I said above, I forced some radio fitting strips into the space in mine and held them in place with a jubilee clip but this didn't take out all the free play and I'm hoping it will seem good enough to pass an MOT - welding will be a better fix).

totalacedude

2 posts

186 months

Thursday 30th October 2008
quotequote all
yea it certainally is this little beast that is giving me trouble!

i couldnt get the boot off so i sliced it in a t shape to gain access!

lots of play!( like chucking a sausage up the m1) lol

ive got a welder so i will make 2 tack welds to see what its like

if its ok ill make the weld stronger and then glue the cover back on!

thanks for pointing me in the right direction!

else i would have been replacing ball joints and would have proberbly ended up buying a new rack!!!!

cheers all

ps ill post on here if welding is sucessfull!!!

ian


JayT78

5 posts

182 months

Wednesday 4th February 2009
quotequote all
Hi guys, i think i have the same problem, i have someone who can weld pretty good.
Can you guys that have done it give me some ideas on the best way to get at it?
I've had a little look myself, but cant really see much space.

Thanks in advance.

mikdys

Original Poster:

212 posts

235 months

Wednesday 4th February 2009
quotequote all
There's not much space (Renaults are designed to be awkward to work on and to fall apart a lot causing lots of work to be required!).

If you look under the dash, then under the steering wheel you will see a large "rubber boot". This needs to be pulled away from the floor and then doubled back on itself to reveal the offending item. Try large cable ties to hold the boot out of the way whilst welding and you will have about 5cm space to get in to do the job.

Good luck!

JayT78

5 posts

182 months

Wednesday 4th February 2009
quotequote all
Thanks for the reply! So it can be done from inside the vehicle? Just very difficult by the sounds of it!
I know what you mean about the bits breaking, got a driveshaft and an alternator that need replacing..


Edited by JayT78 on Wednesday 4th February 19:52

mikdys

Original Poster:

212 posts

235 months

Thursday 5th February 2009
quotequote all
I haven't welded mine because I don't have any welding kit - my solution was to jam some radio fitting metal strips into the rubber joint and hold them in place with jubilee clips. This only reduced the play by half (but it got through the MOT which was my main objective. I was given an "advisory note" stating "slight play in steering rack" (it's not its the rubber steering shaft coupling - shows how much the MOT testers know but I guess they just like to cover their backsides and I was grateful not to get a failure notice).

Had my car failed the MOT I would have paid a garage to weld the coupling together - this has to be a better repair (but my bodge cost me nothing!).

Arj256

82 posts

187 months

Thursday 5th February 2009
quotequote all
Welding the column is the best fix for this common problem.
Imo they are better done out of the car, as the rubber bush inside can catch alight. Which wouldn't be ideal in an enclosed position.

mikdys

Original Poster:

212 posts

235 months

Thursday 5th February 2009
quotequote all
I don't have access to a welder now - but I have in the past and I have done similar jobs to this. Wet rags, water and (if you have access to one - these things are great) a CO2 fire extinguisher are what you need. When things catch light put them out, let the smoke clear, and then have another go!

Taking the column out could be a PITA.

JayT78

5 posts

182 months

Monday 9th February 2009
quotequote all
Thanks guys, i've had a good look at the offending part and it certainly has alot of play.
It doesnt look to bad access, will take the drivers seat out though when i get it done.
The guy i know is a very good welder so it shouldnt be a problem. Meant to be getting it done on the weekend, weather permitting, no garage.

Will let you know how it goes.

mikdys

Original Poster:

212 posts

235 months

Wednesday 11th February 2009
quotequote all
I'd be interested to know how it goes - good luck!

JayT78

5 posts

182 months

Thursday 19th February 2009
quotequote all
I've just got back from having it done, took literally 5mins to do.
Well pleased with the results, NO PLAY at all!

Here is a before and after shot if anyones interested.


mikdys

Original Poster:

212 posts

235 months

Thursday 19th February 2009
quotequote all
Nice job - how much did it cost?

JayT78

5 posts

182 months

Thursday 19th February 2009
quotequote all
Well it was a mate of my dads that did it, he said just get me a packet of fags...
Threw him a tenner anyway, feels like a different car now, im chuffed.

It really took 5mins once he got it plugged in. He welded up the right hand side of the gap,
i turned the wheel, and he welded up the other side..
He did it with an Arc welder to, as he'd run out of gas for his Mig welder, so not a bad job!

mikdys

Original Poster:

212 posts

235 months

Friday 20th February 2009
quotequote all
TTT!

Gixer_fan

290 posts

198 months

Friday 29th January 2010
quotequote all
Excellent thread and great pics there.
My 95 Clio is suffering from the same problem and getting worse - thought I was going to need to replace the column (well get one from the breakers!). Looks like it is a common problem and would deffo be an MOT failure. I'm off to talk to my welder pal!
PS. Just a note of caution before we all go off welding our steering columns:
I'd be very careful not to subject the column to excessive heat which could compromise its material properties or possibly introduce a stress concentration causing fracture at a later point. Also bear in mind that some connections in the column have a telescopic ability which is a safety feature designed to allow the steering mechanism to compress and not move towards the driver under a big frontal impact. Finally though they're not likely to find out, your insurance company wouldn't be too happy to learn that you've effectively 'modified' your steering.
So be very careful out there.


Edited by Gixer_fan on Friday 29th January 20:45

mikdys

Original Poster:

212 posts

235 months

Friday 29th January 2010
quotequote all
Good stuff!