Quaiffe ATB diff

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Discussion

NTEL

Original Poster:

5,051 posts

241 months

Wednesday 15th October 2008
quotequote all
Thinking about installing a quaiffe ATB diff. I have a TVR Tasmin race car currently fitted with a Jag open diff with a 4.1:1 ratio. Coming out of the twisty bits and starting off the grid I always light one wheel up which is obviously loosing time.

Anybody got any experience with the ATB in a rear wheel drive car?

shpub

8,507 posts

273 months

Wednesday 15th October 2008
quotequote all
Why not fit a Jag power loc? Drop in replacement and cheap to pick up. Standard fit on the V8 cars BTW.

Edited by shpub on Wednesday 15th October 12:12

Chassis 33

6,194 posts

283 months

Wednesday 15th October 2008
quotequote all
The Jap powerloc diff was the first port of call for Tasmins, however all have moved away from the Jag unit, I think the reason is becasue there isn't enough weight on the back axle in the race cars to let the diff operate correctly although I'm not 100% on that. Dave best give Graham a shout, he'll be able to fill you in more fully.

Regards
Iain

NTEL

Original Poster:

5,051 posts

241 months

Wednesday 15th October 2008
quotequote all
Already looked into the Powerlock but almost everybody I spoke to said that due to the race cars being so light and the lower torque of the V6, they don't work properly and tend to lock a wheel up.

Edited by NTEL on Wednesday 15th October 13:47

rev-erend

21,419 posts

285 months

Wednesday 15th October 2008
quotequote all
NTEL said:
Already looked into the Powerlock but almost everybody I spoke to said that due to the race cars being so light and the lower torque of the V6, they don't work properly and tend to lock a wheel up.

Edited by NTEL on Wednesday 15th October 13:47
I though the slippage could be adjusted via the friction plates.. guess you might be better off taking to an expert here rather than here say on forums.

shpub

8,507 posts

273 months

Wednesday 15th October 2008
quotequote all
Ok get a powerloc and with the money you've saved thump up the power.... Job's a good 'un.

CNHSS1

942 posts

218 months

Wednesday 15th October 2008
quotequote all
i use a 7" quaife diif in my hillclimber and previously used a viscous LSD. given that the cars approx 800kg/280brake and RWD, it probably compares with the tasmin.
the viscous tended to be 'stiffer' in its action, especially in the damp or slippery conditions, initial understeer followed by oversteer on the power. the quaife drives like an open diff, no 'tight' feeling at all, and is quite progressive as by design it never fully locks. its diadvantage is if you get a rear wheel airborne, it transmits drive to the flailing wheel as it needs some load on each wheel to give the lsd action (unlike a viscous, plated diff or locker). that said, its not a major issue as the wheels are usually firmly planted! nice and easy and vice free in the wet and damp.
i have yet to try a 'plated' lsd in this car. from what ive heard and read, they are probably the ultimate in absolute traction as they lock the drive axle solid, but they are clunky at paddock speeds and the ramps and plates do wear so the 'tightness' settings do change through its life.

for me the quaife is all things to all tracks, i cant be arsed to change diff styles if it rains ;-)
Craig

stevieturbo

17,268 posts

248 months

Wednesday 15th October 2008
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Ive a Torsen in my car. Ive no complaints about it at all.

TEKNOPUG

18,968 posts

206 months

Thursday 16th October 2008
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I'd not suggest a Quaiffe ATB for a track car, purely because if a wheel lifts you lose drive. Ran one on my road 205 and it was great however.

steve-V8s

2,901 posts

249 months

Friday 17th October 2008
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I swapped the original plate type Diff in the Griff for an ATB last winter. On the road it is has been completely vice free( well apart from throwing all the oil out of the breather but that is a separate point) . The reason for fitting it was to improve performance on hillclimbs. With the original one the less loaded rear simply spun uselessly producing lots of tyre smoke out of corners until the car was completely settled. Provided both the wheels are actually on the ground the ATB allows you to get on the power a lot earlier and appears seamless in the way it allocates the drive. As said by others if you actually have a driven wheel off the ground all the power goes to that one which can give some odd handling when it lands again. This has only really been a problem for me on really tight corners where the camber compleatly unloads one rear, like for example the final hairpin at Wiscombe.

One thing that I have found is the car now tramps badly in the wet. No amount of changing the springs or damper settings will control it and nothing else changed at the rear when swapping the diff. I have begun to think that it is actually the load transferring alternately to left and then right rather than something suspension wise loading and releasing. Interestingly I was talking to a 911 driver who had found exactly the same problem with his new ATB. The only thing left to try is replacing the Diff carrier bushes but there is no trace at all of the problem in the dry.

On balance it was a good decision and I have been quicker this year due to getting better drive out of corners, it has required a change in driving style because previously I could plant the throttle and the unloaded rear wheel spun harmlessly, now the ATB actually gets some power on the road and there is more tendency to oversteer so more right foot control is required.

CNHSS1

942 posts

218 months

Friday 17th October 2008
quotequote all
Steve-V8S

wow, pretty well exactly the same syptoms as ive had! ive experienced the tramp and assumed that the majority was the semi-trailing arms design issues. altering the angle of the trailing arms chassis pick-up point relative to the axle centre line helped a lot, this winter is solid or semi solid diff carrier bushes to see if that cures it.
i need to get the wheel speed sensors hooked up to the logger which would prove the ATB 'cyclical' grip/unloading on a hard launch.
i get the problem, wet or dry (quite violent in the dry with slicks tbh)

Edited by CNHSS1 on Friday 17th October 10:17

steve-V8s

2,901 posts

249 months

Friday 17th October 2008
quotequote all
Interesting that you also get it in the dry, what car are you running ?. I have no trace of it at all either with list 1b list 1a or slicks in the dry. If it is, as I suspect due to the way the diff works when there is next to no grip at either wheel I guess it would be dependent on the amount of grip that is available and the power level. After hearing that that 911 chap had the same symptom I asked around the paddock looking for other comparable cars with an ATB but could only find front wheel drive cars with them fitted, none of which found the problem. Despite the logon name I am running a Griff so don’t have the trailing arm suspension which was the reason for selling the V8s. With that I suffered the opposite problem of tramping off the line in the dry but not in the wet which in the end I put down to the trailing arm set-up.

CNHSS1

942 posts

218 months

Sunday 19th October 2008
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steve-V8s said:
Interesting that you also get it in the dry, what car are you running ?.
Scimitar SS1 Turbo ModProd



i can get tramp in the wet if theres enough grip, but given the nature of launching a turbo'd car you need to be fairly aggresive so usually grunt overcomes traction anyway.