Little/big end play

[The Black Flash]

Pumaracing said:

Makes me wonder why I bother. It was certainly a waste of my time in this instance.

Not so, Mr Puma. I for one have learned something

[Flipatron]

Pumaracing said:

Flipatron said:

I don't think It's bushed, just runs in the steel. I'll try a new gudgeon pin first, see how much play I get.

So you intend to ignore the good advice you've already had from every person who's posted including myself a race engine builder of high repute and 30 years experience that from the evidence of your video your little end bush is completely shagged beyond any hope of re-use and beyond anything in fact I've even seen in 30 years of doing this?

Makes me wonder why I bother. It was certainly a waste of my time in this instance.

Calm down, thanks for the advice and I fear your solution is the correct one but buying a gudgeon pin and seeing if the play is reduced is a lot simpler and cheap than removing the engine and splitting the case.

[Mr2Mike]

Pumaracing said:

The crank probably needs pulling apart to get the rod off if it's the type that uses roller bearings. That's a specialised job for someone who deals with bike cranks regularly. It'll need a couple of tons of force on a special jig and then the same again to put it back together.

I managed to split the crank on my old Suzuki X5 parallel two stroke twin to replace the center bearing and oil seal. Since the crank "webs" were circular I just used several bolts and tube nuts between the two inner webs and evenly undid them to get it apart. ISTR using a Peugeot suspension spring compressing tool to get it back together, and a set of V blocks, a DTI and a mallet to get it straight. Did another 7-8k miles until I sold it anyway, which is quite a lot of mileage on a buzzy two stroke.

[Steve_D]

Have to say my first thought on seeing that bearing slop was...how much is a replacement engine out of an insurance write off?
I think it would compare favourably with the cost of rebuilding this one because if the little end is like that then the rest of the engine is likely in a similar state.

Steve

[Pumaracing]

Flipatron said:

Calm down, thanks for the advice and I fear your solution is the correct one but buying a gudgeon pin and seeing if the play is reduced is a lot simpler and cheap than removing the engine and splitting the case.

No it's just a pointless waste of money when

A) You can measure the old pin with a micrometer and see if it's worn for free.
B) If the old pin is still tight in the piston but loose in the rod then it's a bit bleedin' obvious it's the rod that's fecked.
C) You probably can't even buy just a pin. It'll only come with a new piston.
D) THE BLOODY ROD'S COMPLETELY SHAGGED!!!

Listen to people who know fer christ's sake. You're like someone standing at the side of the road next to their car with a flat tyre with a bleedin' great nail sticking out of it saying "Are you sure it's really flat? It doesn't look that bad. I've only got another 20 miles to go."

I'll have one more try and then I'm going to blow a feckin gasket. Put one end of the pin about 20 mm into the piston and try to wiggle it. See how tight that is? That's what it should feel like in the rod.

[Flipatron]

I hear you, It's either off for a rebuild or I'll buy another engine if I can find one cheap enough.