Fuel Pump speed control

Fuel Pump speed control

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Discussion

anonymous-user

54 months

Saturday 13th August 2011
quotequote all
There is nothing preventing the use of the pump pressure controller as a fairly dumb "speed" controller. 1 wire hooked to the switched side of an injector would allow the device to resolve engine rpm and injector duty, and it would be easy to have a single (per pump controlled) user calibratable lookup table of pump supply voltage (or percentage, or whatever) with axis that are engine rpm and injector duty. It would be up to the user to ensure that they simply calibrate the output to ensure the pump runs fast enough to keep the mechanical fuel pressure regulator just lifted off it's seat.

probably the only correction that you would want the controller to do automatically is to adjust for battery (supply) voltage (which it measures internally). That way it would maintain the pump speed independant of battery voltage.


(eg. say you had a nominal 14.7 V supply, and had calibrated a 50% duty, that would be supplying 7.35V to the pump (half of 14.7) But if Batt Volts fell to say 11, the system could automatically add pump duty to restore the original target voltage (in this case 66.8% duty))


eliot

11,429 posts

254 months

Sunday 14th August 2011
quotequote all
As stevie says, as much as i appreciate the argument for a dead headed system, I cant really be bothered to remap etc.
But I am interested in slowing the pump down to give it an easier time and hopefully stop it heating the fuel up as much. At least if I retain the returned system, if the controller went belly up for some reason I would be able to put a fuse back in which bypasses the controller completely. So best of both worlds.

stevieturbo

17,262 posts

247 months

Sunday 14th August 2011
quotequote all
And as dead ends go. It isnt uncommon for people, same as an OEM dead end to run a regulator at the rear, close to the tank/pump.

Best of both worlds perhaps ? Apart from a long MAP reference line if you chose to retain that feature.

That way there isnt tons of fuel getting re-circulated from the engine. And as FP patterns should still follow that of a front mounted FPR, tuning should remain similar.

With the controller running the pumps on a demand basis, either as mentioned by IDC or other means.

TBH, I think it could be as simple as once the injectors hit say 50%, run the pumps flat out. At lower DC's, the user would need to calibrate the lowest pump output whilst maintaining their desired FP. But that should be quite simple.
Although calibration schedule would be different for every user, but could still be very simple

Or as I suggested before, base it on TPS. If TPS is low, pump demand will be low. And have a delay reverting from high to low pump output

anonymous-user

54 months

Sunday 14th August 2011
quotequote all
eliot said:
I cant really be bothered to remap etc.
I'm afraid to say that if you change your fuel delivery volume you will be forced into a remap. All the mechanical pressure regulators i have tested have had a significant pressure "slope with flow". In order to keep the reg compact, manufacturers of said eveice use short stiff springs to load the control orifice. This means, that at low fuel consumption conditions, where the control orifice needs to be lifted a large distance off its seat to allow sufficient fuel to return to the tank, the spring load is significantly higher than when the control orifice is almost shut.

Hence, your actual fuel rail pressure will vary with return flow rate............

(on the worst cheapy reg i testes, it varied by 2 bar over the flow rate of an 044......)

stevieturbo

17,262 posts

247 months

Sunday 14th August 2011
quotequote all
Max_Torque said:
I'm afraid to say that if you change your fuel delivery volume you will be forced into a remap. All the mechanical pressure regulators i have tested have had a significant pressure "slope with flow". In order to keep the reg compact, manufacturers of said eveice use short stiff springs to load the control orifice. This means, that at low fuel consumption conditions, where the control orifice needs to be lifted a large distance off its seat to allow sufficient fuel to return to the tank, the spring load is significantly higher than when the control orifice is almost shut.

Hence, your actual fuel rail pressure will vary with return flow rate............

(on the worst cheapy reg i testes, it varied by 2 bar over the flow rate of an 044......)
Dont quite follow ?

Surely if I have 3 bar in my rails now. Then fit a pump controller and run the pumps more efficiently, but still see 3 bar in the rails. Surely fuelling should remain the same ?

eliot

11,429 posts

254 months

Sunday 14th August 2011
quotequote all
stevieturbo said:
Dont quite follow ?

Surely if I have 3 bar in my rails now. Then fit a pump controller and run the pumps more efficiently, but still see 3 bar in the rails. Surely fuelling should remain the same ?
I think thats the theory - but MT is saying that the regulators he's tested are not very good at actually regulating.
I've got a billet TAG regulator here if you want to test a high end one.

Its a bit like this one, but more of a conventional in/out layout.
http://www.eettaiwan.com/ARTICLES/2002MAY/PDF/2002...

Edited by eliot on Sunday 14th August 21:10

anonymous-user

54 months

Sunday 14th August 2011
quotequote all
stevieturbo said:
Dont quite follow ?

Surely if I have 3 bar in my rails now. Then fit a pump controller and run the pumps more efficiently, but still see 3 bar in the rails. Surely fuelling should remain the same ?
1st assumption, you have 3 bar in rails with just the pumps running but the engine using no fuel.


under this case, the regulator is returning the entire flow of the pump, hence the control orifice will be at maximum lift (because several hundred l/hr of fuel will be flowing through it). Most people "set" there regulator at this condition.

However, as your engine uses a larger and larger proportion of fuel, the regulators control orifice will have to move towards the closed position. As it has a spring inside it, this movement will by necessity cause a reduction in the force on said control orifice (because it is a spring, and hence has a "spring rate"). That reduction in force results in a low pressure being required to balance it, so ultimately, rail pressure falls as return flow reduces.

Most people never spot this, because they never look at fuel rail pressure at peak fuel consumption etc.

if you use a pump speed controller to reduce the return flow at all times, then you WILL also reduce rail pressure by some amount. That amount depends upon the design and "linearity" of the pressure regulator. Hence, you will need to increase fuel pulse width at low loads/rpms to account for the reduced rail pressure (your "mapping" will already have this compensation in it at high load, and i'm sure that this is the reason a lot of people find there injectors are at maximum duty suddenly whilst seeming to be plenty large enough at medium loads etc (ie the closer return flow falls to zero the lower rail pressure actually gets on a std mechanical reg)


anonymous-user

54 months

Sunday 14th August 2011
quotequote all
eliot said:
I think thats the theory - but MT is saying that the regulators he's tested are not very good at actually regulating.
I've got a billet TAG regulator here if you want to test a high end one.

Its a bit like this one, but more of a conventional in/out layout.
http://www.eettaiwan.com/ARTICLES/2002MAY/PDF/2002...

Edited by eliot on Sunday 14th August 21:10
Note the gradient of the pressure slope as return flow falls below approx 50l/hr on that reg. It will be lot steeper on a cheapo regulator.

stevieturbo

17,262 posts

247 months

Sunday 14th August 2011
quotequote all
Still dont quite follow...or maybe I do.

If anything, using a pump controller will make the rail pressure easier to maintain, and give the FPR and easier life too.

As in an ideal world with a very well programmed controller, you could in theory have the FPR deal with a fixed return flow all the time. So the internal spring or whatever isnt really doing much work at all.

So surely it's all good ?

Run the pumps at a minimum work load to maintain your desired pressure at the rails. But this wouldnt necessarily require very technical controls ?
So the FPR return is always doing the least amount of work to maintain your pressure. The spring is never at one extreme or the other ?
You could say it's operating in the same way it would be at maximum engine effort.


Steve_D

Original Poster:

13,747 posts

258 months

Monday 15th August 2011
quotequote all
stevieturbo said:
Still dont quite follow...or maybe I do.

If anything, using a pump controller will make the rail pressure easier to maintain, and give the FPR and easier life too.

As in an ideal world with a very well programmed controller, you could in theory have the FPR deal with a fixed return flow all the time. So the internal spring or whatever isnt really doing much work at all.

So surely it's all good ?

Run the pumps at a minimum work load to maintain your desired pressure at the rails. But this wouldnt necessarily require very technical controls ?
So the FPR return is always doing the least amount of work to maintain your pressure. The spring is never at one extreme or the other ?
You could say it's operating in the same way it would be at maximum engine effort.
First with the controller you would not need a mechanical reg but if you decided to leave it in then yes it should sit in about the same place through the whole power range.

Second, as you say, the whole system is now running at a constant pressure despite flow rate. What Max is saying is that you have never had that constant rate before so your maps will have been unknowingly tweeked to compensate for the low fuel pressure at high demand.

Steve

stevieturbo

17,262 posts

247 months

Monday 15th August 2011
quotequote all
Steve_D said:
First with the controller you would not need a mechanical reg but if you decided to leave it in then yes it should sit in about the same place through the whole power range.

Second, as you say, the whole system is now running at a constant pressure despite flow rate. What Max is saying is that you have never had that constant rate before so your maps will have been unknowingly tweeked to compensate for the low fuel pressure at high demand.

Steve
My rail pressure is almost 1:1 with boost at all operating ranges though ? Perhaps maybe not keeping up to the tune of about 0.2-0.3 bar at the top end. Whilst I doubt it, the 044's may be struggling, or may simply be the normal operation/abilities of my FPR.

andygtt

8,345 posts

264 months

Tuesday 16th August 2011
quotequote all
On a side note to Max and steve.... there has been a question asked about turbo comparisons on the noble forum that has actually been something I have been wondering myself.

Basically if boost was set the same and inlet air temp, rpm etc the same... would a large turbo and a small turbo make the same power?... wondered if you guys had any input?

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

anonymous-user

54 months

Tuesday 16th August 2011
quotequote all
stevieturbo said:
My rail pressure is almost 1:1 with boost at all operating ranges though ? Perhaps maybe not keeping up to the tune of about 0.2-0.3 bar at the top end. Whilst I doubt it, the 044's may be struggling, or may simply be the normal operation/abilities of my FPR.
This would suggest that your fuel supply system is more than capable of supplying sufficient volume of fuel (at the required pressure) and that even with the maximum amount of fuel being injected into your engine (injectors at what ever there max DC is), there is always sufficent "extra" being supplied to the rail to keep the mechanical regulator in it's linear region (for the graph shown for that TAG FPR that is above approx 50l/hr). This is of course a good thing (with regard to keeping your injector delta pressures constant) but would lead me think that you are using a lot of unecessary power and producng a lot of heat and noise to move fuel around the car that is never used by the engine ;-)

andygtt

8,345 posts

264 months

Tuesday 16th August 2011
quotequote all
My setup will be the same, ie I run 2 044's and its the amp draw that makes me want a speed controller as 044's use a large amount of amps... my headlights now flicker below 2000rpm... not helped by me putting an underdrive pulley on the alternator as they were failing at the extra 1000rpm that I am running.


stevieturbo

17,262 posts

247 months

Tuesday 16th August 2011
quotequote all
Max_Torque said:
This would suggest that your fuel supply system is more than capable of supplying sufficient volume of fuel (at the required pressure) and that even with the maximum amount of fuel being injected into your engine (injectors at what ever there max DC is), there is always sufficent "extra" being supplied to the rail to keep the mechanical regulator in it's linear region (for the graph shown for that TAG FPR that is above approx 50l/hr). This is of course a good thing (with regard to keeping your injector delta pressures constant) but would lead me think that you are using a lot of unecessary power and producng a lot of heat and noise to move fuel around the car that is never used by the engine ;-)
Pressure does tail off slightly at the top end, but nothing bad. IDC's generally dont go over 75% with approx 1200cc per cylinder available, albeit also using slightly higher base pressure.

But yes, this does mean a huge volume of fuel is getting circulated at low operating loads. Hence why I would consider a SIMPLE controller lol
And one that could also perhaps up the voltage if needed to say 16v ?

one eyed mick

1,189 posts

161 months

Thursday 18th August 2011
quotequote all
A couple of things baffle me ! you can hear the pumps over a v8?--,if the pumps are taking so much current to effect the lighting system there is an issue with either the pumps or charging system ? yours baffled

andygtt

8,345 posts

264 months

Thursday 18th August 2011
quotequote all
yes pumps can be heard as they work hard on idle unlike the engine... and 044's take a lot of current, 2-3times a normal fuel pump and I have 2 of them, coupled with the fact I geared down my alternator as it was overcharging and destroying itself at the extra revs my engine runs therefore it provides less charge below 2k rpm now... although I should be clear they dont go off or anything, just get a little brighter at 2k were most cars only suffer this on idle (if you turned everything on).


Mr2Mike

20,143 posts

255 months

Thursday 18th August 2011
quotequote all
Max_Torque said:
probably the only correction that you would want the controller to do automatically is to adjust for battery (supply) voltage (which it measures internally). That way it would maintain the pump speed independant of battery voltage.
That should already be taken into account by the ECU by increasing injector pulsewidth, so if your pump controller is using injector pulsewidth as a control parameter it should automatically compensate for battery voltage as well.

anonymous-user

54 months

Thursday 18th August 2011
quotequote all
one eyed mick said:
A couple of things baffle me ! you can hear the pumps over a v8?--,if the pumps are taking so much current to effect the lighting system there is an issue with either the pumps or charging system ? yours baffled
lets put it this way:

Say your upstairs bath hot tap has stopped working, and you need to fill the bath with hot water from a downstairs tap using a bucket, would you put the bathplug in place before starting to cart buckets up the stairs or not? biggrin

stevieturbo

17,262 posts

247 months

Thursday 18th August 2011
quotequote all
one eyed mick said:
A couple of things baffle me ! you can hear the pumps over a v8?--,if the pumps are taking so much current to effect the lighting system there is an issue with either the pumps or charging system ? yours baffled
That would depend on the V8, the pumps, how they are mounted etc etc

And if they are affecting the lighting system, you need to wire them correctly.

I tested mine recently, and both pumps with the engine at idle are sitting at 21.5amps and 14.0v with 3.2bar pressure.
I did squish the return, although obviously this caused the engine to try and stall. But at around 5.5 bar, current rose to about 26amps. It was hard to watch pressure gauge, ammeter and squash the return line all at once without letting the engine stall too.