fast indicator VXR8
Discussion
Hi guys,
It might be worth trying out these electronic flasher modules.
www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/LED-Resistor-Kits/
The ballast resister is probably not needed but modules are probably a good bet.
The mod I found last time added a variable in place one the internal ones in a standard flasher module.
The value of linear variable resistor one as roughly twice that of the one it replaced meaning that at it had the same value you could adjust it small screw driver until the module flashed at the correct rate.
Still can't find it though.
The resistance change with Temp on an LED is not the same between LED clusters which explains why only one an be affected. It only takes a couple of mA difference to flip the std flasher into fast mode.
It might be worth trying out these electronic flasher modules.
www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/LED-Resistor-Kits/
The ballast resister is probably not needed but modules are probably a good bet.
The mod I found last time added a variable in place one the internal ones in a standard flasher module.
The value of linear variable resistor one as roughly twice that of the one it replaced meaning that at it had the same value you could adjust it small screw driver until the module flashed at the correct rate.
Still can't find it though.
The resistance change with Temp on an LED is not the same between LED clusters which explains why only one an be affected. It only takes a couple of mA difference to flip the std flasher into fast mode.
Found the link - here it is.
www.instructables.com/id/Automotive-electronic-flasher-rate-modification./
I was planning to use a I meg circuit mount type linear variable resistor mounted on the top cover to mod a standard flasher module. These adjust with a small screwdriver.
Note the correct diagram for the flasher unit schematic is posted in further down the link the PDF download highlights a capacitor which should be left alone.
www.instructables.com/id/Automotive-electronic-flasher-rate-modification./
I was planning to use a I meg circuit mount type linear variable resistor mounted on the top cover to mod a standard flasher module. These adjust with a small screwdriver.
Note the correct diagram for the flasher unit schematic is posted in further down the link the PDF download highlights a capacitor which should be left alone.
Edited by ninjasta on Saturday 17th December 22:12
mikee - worth reading this thread for infor and contact details for Chris.
I didn't take any pictures unfortunately but the extra looms are literally 10cm of "extra" loom with a male and female connector that plug in between the light unit and the existing loom.
I'd guess this justs adjusts the resistance/impedence enough to stop this fast-repeat issue occuring.
I didn't take any pictures unfortunately but the extra looms are literally 10cm of "extra" loom with a male and female connector that plug in between the light unit and the existing loom.
I'd guess this justs adjusts the resistance/impedence enough to stop this fast-repeat issue occuring.
MatrixXXx said:
Does any one actually know what the problem is? I am an Electrical/ electronics engineer I can usally fix things like this, but assume it must be a pcb problem? Or a timer chip?
Similar problems occur if you fit LED Bulbs with a Flasher modules designed for Thermal bulbs.
LED Bulbs have lower operating resistance which changes temperature. This changes the load seen by the flasher unit and can trigger it flip into fast mode. There are some LED flasher modules available that are balanced to work with LED bulbs.
There are also resistor mods that add an in-line balast resistor to increase resistive load seen by the module.
If you Know how to use soldering iron the existing can be modded to the fixed feedback resistor with a vaiable one that allows to "tune" slow/fast threshold to suit.
Mine was fast flashing when I bought it, so agreed with the dealer that picadors would supply some loom extensions.
They didn't work.
BECAUSE
I noticed 3 leds out on the RHS and 6 on the LHS
I followed this thread to remove the LED circuit board
http://www.vxronline.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?15...
and then looked for obvious cracks.
The first side was easy. a cracked ring of solder around the bottom of one of the LEDs. They are in series, so when one goes, a few go.
touched the iron to it with a small blob of solder. Job done. reinstalled and all working.
I took the additional loom off. It went back to fast flash. Put the loom on and slow flash.
Excellent.
I thought.
Side 2. Put the light in the oven at 100 ish degrees for 15 minutes or so to soften the sealant. Got the unit apart and looked for cracks. None.
plugged it back in to ID the failing LEDS, and marked them up.
touched the iron to all the terminals.
Still the same.
Found a 3V calculator battery. the ones that look like a £1.00 coin.
Touched it across the terminals and discovered 4 out of the 6 were not working.
Will be going to Maplins tomorrow to purchase a few more LEDS. should be a quick fix then...
They didn't work.
BECAUSE
I noticed 3 leds out on the RHS and 6 on the LHS
I followed this thread to remove the LED circuit board
http://www.vxronline.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?15...
and then looked for obvious cracks.
The first side was easy. a cracked ring of solder around the bottom of one of the LEDs. They are in series, so when one goes, a few go.
touched the iron to it with a small blob of solder. Job done. reinstalled and all working.
I took the additional loom off. It went back to fast flash. Put the loom on and slow flash.
Excellent.
I thought.
Side 2. Put the light in the oven at 100 ish degrees for 15 minutes or so to soften the sealant. Got the unit apart and looked for cracks. None.
plugged it back in to ID the failing LEDS, and marked them up.
touched the iron to all the terminals.
Still the same.
Found a 3V calculator battery. the ones that look like a £1.00 coin.
Touched it across the terminals and discovered 4 out of the 6 were not working.
Will be going to Maplins tomorrow to purchase a few more LEDS. should be a quick fix then...
I've have gone down the DIY route myself and taken the units apart. I replaced 3 LEDs on the passengers side and the same on the drivers.
Initially the passengers side worked for a week or so but now it's not showing another 3 LEDs....The drivers side has all the LEDs plus a loom adaptor but still flashes rapidly. To say this is testing my patients in an understatement. Am very tempted to just buy 2 new units, I realise this isn't going to be cheap but if might save my sanity....
Initially the passengers side worked for a week or so but now it's not showing another 3 LEDs....The drivers side has all the LEDs plus a loom adaptor but still flashes rapidly. To say this is testing my patients in an understatement. Am very tempted to just buy 2 new units, I realise this isn't going to be cheap but if might save my sanity....
ARAF said:
Some people have put two patch leads in one side to stop the rapid flash.
As for buying new, you need VERY deep pockets. IIRC figures around £800 per side used to be bandied about, and won't necessarily cure the problem.
The patch leads work IF all the leds work...As for buying new, you need VERY deep pockets. IIRC figures around £800 per side used to be bandied about, and won't necessarily cure the problem.
Hopefully getting all the leds working will cure it. Bear in mind it worked on the left. So it should work on the right. If not, I'll just stick a suitable resister in the + side and see what happens...
I had a bunch of trouble with mine I would fix them and they would stay fixed for a month or two then break again. In the end I lost my patience with it and replaced all the LEDs though the jury is still out on whether that has worked as a long term fix. It's my understanding that the fast click is caused by the LEDs as a whole having the wrong resistance as measured by the canbus unit so it should be possible to diagnose it by systematically testing the each set of LEDs with a multimeter.
I think the full light units are about £500-£600 a pop when ordered from Walkinshaw so its worth the effort to try and fix them unless you're rolling in cash.
HTH
I think the full light units are about £500-£600 a pop when ordered from Walkinshaw so its worth the effort to try and fix them unless you're rolling in cash.
HTH
Kedlestone said:
I have noticed that a few LEDs do,look slightly dimmer than others....but as the unit was working I thought the job was done.
Ok going to give this one more try then. Would you recommend turning up the potentiometer then?
"Reccomend" implies I know what i'm talking about. I don't. It worked for me but do it at your own risk...However how I see it, if there's a variable resistor/potentiometer or whatever it is, then its there to be varied imho...Ok going to give this one more try then. Would you recommend turning up the potentiometer then?
Suppose its there to balance the output, but if it solves the problem, why not eh?
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