fast indicator VXR8
Discussion
Hi, now the weather is getting cold I have the fast flashing indicators. Searching the threads I see picador had a module you could plug in-line to fix this problem.
Is this still available ?
My car is still under warranty but I'll rather fix it myself and save a tank of fuel getting there
Is this still available ?
My car is still under warranty but I'll rather fix it myself and save a tank of fuel getting there
hsv keith said:
Hi, now the weather is getting cold I have the fast flashing indicators. Searching the threads I see picador had a module you could plug in-line to fix this problem.
Is this still available ?
My car is still under warranty but I'll rather fix it myself and save a tank of fuel getting there
because your car is still under warranty i think you will be asked to take your car in to get fixed. Is this still available ?
My car is still under warranty but I'll rather fix it myself and save a tank of fuel getting there
MatrixXXx said:
Does any one actually know what the problem is? I am an Electrical/ electronics engineer I can usally fix things like this, but assume it must be a pcb problem? Or a timer chip?
People seem to think that it's like when a bulb is out, making the relay flash faster - so maybe just a resistor is all it needs.It wouldn't surprise me, if that is the case, and the only reason for the high charge is because they can - being that a new light unit is so costly.
I fixed mine that had a few LEDs out on the light itself, I wrote a short guide follow the link below.
www.vxronline.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?150394-How-to-fix-your-tail-lights-LEDS.
The problem with fixing the led control module is that it's sealed inside so you can't get to the board.
www.vxronline.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?150394-How-to-fix-your-tail-lights-LEDS.
The problem with fixing the led control module is that it's sealed inside so you can't get to the board.
Dear All,
It wouldn't surprise me, if that is the case, and the only reason for the high charge is because they can - being that a new light unit is so costly.
I have been involved with lamp fail detection in cars. A while ago but the theory should still stand
Motoring regs. mandate that if an indicator lamp(s) is(are) blown the balance and especially the tell tale(s)/clicker in the dash flash at a faster rate as a warning.
Somewhere there'll be a subcircuit/system in an ECU to monitor the current taken by various lamps.
To get the cost down as many lamps as possible are monitored together. In the indicator circuit there are lots. The more lamps you monitor the bigger the tolerance you have to manage. Eventually with all the variables of supply voltage, components, lamps and temperature a circuit with, say, three working lamps at the low current end of the tolerance looks the same as two working lamps at the high end of the tolerance and vice versa.
Conventional filament lamps take more current when they're cold so I'd expect the system to fail to detect a fault in winter rather than seeing a problem when there isn't!
I'd therefore be looking at the ECU rather then the lamps.
Maybe the extra box puts a little bit more load on indicator circuits in cars where the system is pessimistic i.e. trips at a higher current than it should.
Does this make sense?
To MatrixXXx at least
regards,
Jet
ARAF said:
MatrixXXx said:
Does any one actually know what the problem is? I am an Electrical/ electronics engineer I can usally fix things like this, but assume it must be a pcb problem? Or a timer chip?
People seem to think that it's like when a bulb is out, making the relay flash faster - so maybe just a resistor is all it needs.It wouldn't surprise me, if that is the case, and the only reason for the high charge is because they can - being that a new light unit is so costly.
I have been involved with lamp fail detection in cars. A while ago but the theory should still stand
Motoring regs. mandate that if an indicator lamp(s) is(are) blown the balance and especially the tell tale(s)/clicker in the dash flash at a faster rate as a warning.
Somewhere there'll be a subcircuit/system in an ECU to monitor the current taken by various lamps.
To get the cost down as many lamps as possible are monitored together. In the indicator circuit there are lots. The more lamps you monitor the bigger the tolerance you have to manage. Eventually with all the variables of supply voltage, components, lamps and temperature a circuit with, say, three working lamps at the low current end of the tolerance looks the same as two working lamps at the high end of the tolerance and vice versa.
Conventional filament lamps take more current when they're cold so I'd expect the system to fail to detect a fault in winter rather than seeing a problem when there isn't!
I'd therefore be looking at the ECU rather then the lamps.
Maybe the extra box puts a little bit more load on indicator circuits in cars where the system is pessimistic i.e. trips at a higher current than it should.
Does this make sense?
To MatrixXXx at least
regards,
Jet
I see what your saying, it could be tolerance at low temperatures proberly something that wasent foreseen during testing in Auz.
Most of the bulb failure units I have seen just work on monitoring resistance as the filament will form a circuit all the time unless blown or open circuit. I thought the rapid flashing was down the bi metallic strip having to much current thought it? Are the indicators LEDs or the usual flasher bulbs? If it measures current then it may not be a simple fix.
Most of the bulb failure units I have seen just work on monitoring resistance as the filament will form a circuit all the time unless blown or open circuit. I thought the rapid flashing was down the bi metallic strip having to much current thought it? Are the indicators LEDs or the usual flasher bulbs? If it measures current then it may not be a simple fix.
I had the same problem last year.
Contact Picador Southampton to report the fault so that it is on record for warranty.
Picador have a quick fix that plugs directly into the wiring loom at both rear lights, takes 1o minutes. If this fails (and mine hasn't yet)then take it in for repair.
Contact Picador Southampton to report the fault so that it is on record for warranty.
Picador have a quick fix that plugs directly into the wiring loom at both rear lights, takes 1o minutes. If this fails (and mine hasn't yet)then take it in for repair.
desert fox said:
I had the same problem last year.
Contact Picador Southampton to report the fault so that it is on record for warranty.
Picador have a quick fix that plugs directly into the wiring loom at both rear lights, takes 1o minutes. If this fails (and mine hasn't yet)then take it in for repair.
thanks for the info I had read that picador had a repair for this issueContact Picador Southampton to report the fault so that it is on record for warranty.
Picador have a quick fix that plugs directly into the wiring loom at both rear lights, takes 1o minutes. If this fails (and mine hasn't yet)then take it in for repair.
Mine does it but only in extremely cold weather, as of the last two winters. Dealer won't repair unless the fault can be demonstrated. I told them this was a known problem, (better off talking to nearest wall) What's the odds that it won't occur this winter as so far the weather hasn't been nearly as bad as last year. I insisted on them logging the fault as warranty expires September 2012.
V2RAC said:
Mine does it but only in extremely cold weather, as of the last two winters. Dealer won't repair unless the fault can be demonstrated. I told them this was a known problem, (better off talking to nearest wall) What's the odds that it won't occur this winter as so far the weather hasn't been nearly as bad as last year. I insisted on them logging the fault as warranty expires September 2012.
PM Dougie. There is a technote about this. Your dealer needs beating up. Dont accept no.I'm no expert on this - plus it (fast indicator) has only happened once to me in 12 months of ownership. But we know for sure that it is related to cold temperatures as it only seems to occur during winter.
Do these cold temperatures alter the resistance (electrical resistance will decrease with a reduction in temperature) of a circuit or chip/s in the LED module or elsewhere ie. wiring loom, which is then sensed in the LED module. Has anyone tried insulating the LED module box from the cold (wiring loom would be more tricky) ?
What is this plug in box that seems to cure the fault - is it just a way of adding some resistance to the circuit, bringing it back above a certain threshold.
Lots of questions - not many answers !
Do these cold temperatures alter the resistance (electrical resistance will decrease with a reduction in temperature) of a circuit or chip/s in the LED module or elsewhere ie. wiring loom, which is then sensed in the LED module. Has anyone tried insulating the LED module box from the cold (wiring loom would be more tricky) ?
What is this plug in box that seems to cure the fault - is it just a way of adding some resistance to the circuit, bringing it back above a certain threshold.
Lots of questions - not many answers !
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