Oil Temperature 140 degrees !!!!!

Oil Temperature 140 degrees !!!!!

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Jonny7

Original Poster:

65 posts

189 months

Saturday 14th September 2013
quotequote all
Yesterday I had my first Trackday in my Commodore, LS2 engine. The car usually sits at 110 c, but after a few laps it reached almost 140c, so i brought her in to cool down, before going out again. I was only able to run 4 laps in one go before I had the same issue. The oil pressure was good and constant. The outside air temp was only about 14c.
Is this normal, and would the temperature have risen even higher had I continued?
If not, is there a good 'fix' for this problem, so that I can enjoy say, a solid 20-30 mins of hard driving without stopping to cool down.
I would like to thank Andy and Roger at Monkfish for their advice regarding my suspension setup. I purchased a set of Pedders Supercar coilovers, uprated front and rear anti roll bars and the road response kit. The setup Roger advised is comfortable for every day use and worked brilliantly on track, and road for that matter. I swear that it now handles better than my P1 Impreza did. Several folk commented on how well she went through the corners, and how balanced she looked doing it. I have only had her 2 months, and yesterday confirmed to me that she is a keeper.


Jonny7

Original Poster:

65 posts

189 months

Saturday 14th September 2013
quotequote all

ARAF

20,759 posts

223 months

Saturday 14th September 2013
quotequote all
I have the same problem, and the gauge hits 150. When I have brought the car in and checked the oil temp, it has been about 35 deg C LOWER than the gauge reading!

The oil has also been dropped out, and it's not at all burnt and doesn't smell 'nutty' so the oil is definitely not overheating.

10/10 for your mechanical sympathy, but 0/10 for HSVs instrument accuracy.

Good luck with the car. They're fun on track. Did it come from North Kent?

Jonny7

Original Poster:

65 posts

189 months

Saturday 14th September 2013
quotequote all
Yes, It belonged to Holden Racing. They wanted to Import a Commodore VE but were told that they had to go for the VXR8, but Holden agreed to send them the front and back end, lights, airbag etc to turn it back to a Commodore. The only remaining traces of VXR8 is the stitching in the seats and the transfers on the brake calipers.
I also just texted Darren from Holden Racing and guess what.........he also said that the VXR gagues were suspect. Does yours run at 110c ( on the gague) normally?

goldvxr8

2,949 posts

166 months

Saturday 14th September 2013
quotequote all
Jonny7 said:
Yes, It belonged to Holden Racing. They wanted to Import a Commodore VE but were told that they had to go for the VXR8, but Holden agreed to send them the front and back end, lights, airbag etc to turn it back to a Commodore. The only remaining traces of VXR8 is the stitching in the seats and the transfers on the brake calipers.
I also just texted Darren from Holden Racing and guess what.........he also said that the VXR gagues were suspect. Does yours run at 110c ( on the gague) normally?
Hi
Yer the same for me to on this
You got the car befor I got to get the old light off them did you sell them in the end

ARAF

20,759 posts

223 months

Saturday 14th September 2013
quotequote all
Jonny7 said:
Yes, It belonged to Holden Racing. They wanted to Import a Commodore VE but were told that they had to go for the VXR8, but Holden agreed to send them the front and back end, lights, airbag etc to turn it back to a Commodore. The only remaining traces of VXR8 is the stitching in the seats and the transfers on the brake calipers.
I also just texted Darren from Holden Racing and guess what.........he also said that the VXR gagues were suspect. Does yours run at 110c ( on the gague) normally?
Yes, up to about 125 on the road. As you said, within 3 laps on track, you're into the 130-140 deg C territory and I was just as worried as you. I even had Monkfish investigate a sump cooler, but when the oil was dropped out of the engine it was still fresh. This is what made me suspect the gauge, and when I have since checked the oil temp as soon as I've returned to the pits, it has always been about 35 deg lower than the gauge.

I know that IR thermometers are not always the most accurate, but the fact that the oil has never burnt really put my mind at rest. smile

Jonny7

Original Poster:

65 posts

189 months

Saturday 14th September 2013
quotequote all
goldvxr8 said:
Hi
Yer the same for me to on this
You got the car befor I got to get the old light off them did you sell them in the end
Yes, I traded them in with Monkfish as part payment for the suspension kit, along with the front bumper.

Jonny7

Original Poster:

65 posts

189 months

Saturday 14th September 2013
quotequote all
Thanks for putting my mind at rest. if it is that common a problem, it must be the gauge. next time I wont worry till the temp rises above 150c. Did it ever go above this? smile)
ARAF said:
Yes, up to about 125 on the road. As you said, within 3 laps on track, you're into the 130-140 deg C territory and I was just as worried as you. I even had Monkfish investigate a sump cooler, but when the oil was dropped out of the engine it was still fresh. This is what made me suspect the gauge, and when I have since checked the oil temp as soon as I've returned to the pits, it has always been about 35 deg lower than the gauge.

I know that IR thermometers are not always the most accurate, but the fact that the oil has never burnt really put my mind at rest. smile

ARAF

20,759 posts

223 months

Saturday 14th September 2013
quotequote all
Jonny7 said:
Thanks for putting my mind at rest. if it is that common a problem, it must be the gauge. next time I wont worry till the temp rises above 150c. Did it ever go above this? smile)
ARAF said:
Yes, up to about 125 on the road. As you said, within 3 laps on track, you're into the 130-140 deg C territory and I was just as worried as you. I even had Monkfish investigate a sump cooler, but when the oil was dropped out of the engine it was still fresh. This is what made me suspect the gauge, and when I have since checked the oil temp as soon as I've returned to the pits, it has always been about 35 deg lower than the gauge.

I know that IR thermometers are not always the most accurate, but the fact that the oil has never burnt really put my mind at rest. smile
To be honest, I ignore it now. We've had the car four years and I usually do a few track days a year in it.

BTW, I have just the rear spoiler for you - from the Commodore SS, but it's currently fitted to our car, so not for sale. Right colour too. smile

Edited by ARAF on Saturday 14th September 14:06

Jonny7

Original Poster:

65 posts

189 months

Saturday 14th September 2013
quotequote all
ARAF said:
Aww, please send me a pic smile)

To be honest, I ignore it now. We've had the car four years and I usually do a few track days a year in it.

BTW, I have just the rear spoiler for you - from the Commodore SS, but it's currently fitted to our car, so not for sale. Right colour too. smile

Edited by ARAF on Saturday 14th September 14:06

ARAF

20,759 posts

223 months

Saturday 14th September 2013
quotequote all
Here you go. As you have been to Monkfish, you may have seen it, without realising (R8 with the white roof) as it was there for ovr a month, in the summer. It's a shallower attack angle, but a wider blade and slightly shorter end plates.


stevieturbo

17,267 posts

247 months

Saturday 14th September 2013
quotequote all
If the gauge is accurate, you should be concerned.

If you are using very good oil, then 120degC, not a big deal. 130degC is pushing things. Short duration and if pressure remains good...ok wouldnt worry too much

I would not continue to push hard knowing oil temperature was above that. And certainly not thrashing it around a race track

And really you need to be logging oil pressure at a sensible rate in order to say it is ok at all times. An occasional glance at the gauge is not enough.

Running a cooler thermostat in the engine will help, as you'll automatically drop overall temps by about 20degC ( ie 79degC stat )

Dont forget, the engine block can also be considered a heater as well as a cooler
If the engine block is sitting at 100degC, your oil will struggle to get much below this even during normal driving.


breizhpierrot

183 posts

138 months

Saturday 14th September 2013
quotequote all
I was wondering if it is an easy job, I mean with bolt-on parts, to fit a LS3 oil cooler on a LS2 block.

Also, if you want to do some trackdays, a baffled sump should be better for the engine, or a dry sump system.

gsd2000

11,515 posts

183 months

Saturday 14th September 2013
quotequote all
Maybe fit a more accurate gauge, does the ecu also log oil temp?

Jonny7

Original Poster:

65 posts

189 months

Saturday 14th September 2013
quotequote all
ARAF said:
Here you go. As you have been to Monkfish, you may have seen it, without realising (R8 with the white roof) as it was there for ovr a month, in the summer. It's a shallower attack angle, but a wider blade and slightly shorter end plates.

Cool. I have never actually been to Monkfish, and did all my Business over the phone.They even checked a car out for me, before I finally deceided on this one.

Jonny7

Original Poster:

65 posts

189 months

Saturday 14th September 2013
quotequote all
stevieturbo said:
If the gauge is accurate, you should be concerned.

If you are using very good oil, then 120degC, not a big deal. 130degC is pushing things. Short duration and if pressure remains good...ok wouldnt worry too much

I would not continue to push hard knowing oil temperature was above that. And certainly not thrashing it around a race track

And really you need to be logging oil pressure at a sensible rate in order to say it is ok at all times. An occasional glance at the gauge is not enough.

Running a cooler thermostat in the engine will help, as you'll automatically drop overall temps by about 20degC ( ie 79degC stat )

Dont forget, the engine block can also be considered a heater as well as a cooler
If the engine block is sitting at 100degC, your oil will struggle to get much below this even during normal driving.
Is there any way that i can check the gauge and sender Steve?


ARAF

20,759 posts

223 months

Saturday 14th September 2013
quotequote all
Jonny7 said:
Cool. I have never actually been to Monkfish, and did all my Business over the phone.They even checked a car out for me, before I finally deceided on this one.
Sorry, I assumed you'd been there to part ex bits.

stevieturbo

17,267 posts

247 months

Saturday 14th September 2013
quotequote all
Jonny7 said:
Is there any way that i can check the gauge and sender Steve?
Only real way is to place the sender in a known temperature and monitor it....not really the easiest thing to do though

Where exactly are you monitoring temperature ?


A basic, albeit less accurate test for 2 different temperatures.

Engine sitting overnight, key on, engine off.

Engine coolant temperature and engine oil temperature should be pretty close to each other. A digital gauge or some sort would be needed, OEM analogue gauges arent accurate for that type of thing.

Then engine fully warmed up, vehicle stationary and sitting idling. Again, both temperatures should be pretty close to each other.

stick100

7,017 posts

168 months

Saturday 14th September 2013
quotequote all
I don't surpose you want to do a swap for your front bumper?

Jonny7

Original Poster:

65 posts

189 months

Sunday 15th September 2013
quotequote all
I took the temperature from the oil temp gauge on the dash. Thats why I was so alarmed when I glanced down and noticed that it was so hot. The car uses Castrol Edge 5W30. I did ask a passenger to keep an eye on the oil temp and pressure for me, and he said that the pressure was always constant,(rev dependant). Maybe I should invest in an IR thermometer like ARAF.
stevieturbo said:
Only real way is to place the sender in a known temperature and monitor it....not really the easiest thing to do though

Where exactly are you monitoring temperature ?


A basic, albeit less accurate test for 2 different temperatures.

Engine sitting overnight, key on, engine off.

Engine coolant temperature and engine oil temperature should be pretty close to each other. A digital gauge or some sort would be needed, OEM analogue gauges arent accurate for that type of thing.

Then engine fully warmed up, vehicle stationary and sitting idling. Again, both temperatures should be pretty close to each other.