santa pod set up
Discussion
ArnieVXR said:
ringram said:
If not you can join the FI boys in the 13+ second range
Maybe you mean low tens for FI. Without trying too hard My suggestion is to run on slicks at 8.5psi, line lock, run a massive burnout, roll into pre-stage, engage the trans-brake and foot-brake, build revs to 4500rpm, wait a few seconds, jump into stage, let go of the brakes within 0.05 seconds of the green light and then hang on. Press the over boost button as soon as it hooks up. And don't forget to pull the chute as you cross the line.
How hard can it be
Eldest23 said:
Hey everyone got any suggestions on things like launch rpm best way to launch and pressures to run? What sort of time should I expect from running a cammed LS2 with full exhaust running about 460-470?
Thanks for any help.
leave everything as is, don't piss around with the pressure, have a great fun day and just practice the launch. Why fk with psi's on a road car if you're only chasing 0.000001 of a second. You'll make much more difference with a decent launch than mucking around with pressureThanks for any help.
ringram said:
A burnout will help with grip by making the tyres softer and stickier too.. even on street tyres.
You can find that you start to lose some traction if you keep doing little burnouts as you seem to just sort of glaze the tyre over.The alternative is to either just scrub them a little, or do huge stonking burnouts that melt you a nice new layer of tyre
To prove how sticky they get, here's a picture from Le Mans taken after a big smoky donut
ringram said:
Pressure will help the 60' in fact thats probably the main place it does.. More grip.. less time to 60'
You have to modulate launch to grip so they are related..
A burnout will help with grip by making the tyres softer and stickier too.. even on street tyres.
on stty street tyres though? I remember the days of trying all sorts and in the end they made little difference. In fact, we found increasing the rear psi helped more. The pod at least has a great prep, better than shakeys so you can probably run 1200psi and still gripYou have to modulate launch to grip so they are related..
A burnout will help with grip by making the tyres softer and stickier too.. even on street tyres.
It's physics though, can't really be argued with?
Lower psi = more contact patch = more friction
Now fair enough, I don't know the difference in rolling resistance, but given how traction limited we are it seems like a good place to start...
Now personally I don't bother, as I like to have the car in 'street' trim, but if your aim is to go as fast as the car can, then deflated rears will help.
Lower psi = more contact patch = more friction
Now fair enough, I don't know the difference in rolling resistance, but given how traction limited we are it seems like a good place to start...
Now personally I don't bother, as I like to have the car in 'street' trim, but if your aim is to go as fast as the car can, then deflated rears will help.
SturdyHSV said:
Now personally I don't bother, as I like to have the car in 'street' trim,
Thats exactly my logic, When ever I got to the Pod my car stays 100% as it is when I drive it daily...sub, amp, spare wheel and tools included ! In fact the one year I went I still had the kids seats in the back and double buggy in the boot stigmundfreud said:
leave everything as is, don't piss around with the pressure, have a great fun day and just practice the launch. Why fk with psi's on a road car if you're only chasing 0.000001 of a second. You'll make much more difference with a decent launch than mucking around with pressure
Quite true.And tyres designed for a road car, road use...and a heavy road car at that. Really....there is no sense or logic to reducing the pressure they operate at. They dont have soft or tall sidewalls to actually make any use of reduced pressure.
Probably more chance of making it worse.
stevieturbo said:
Quite true.
And tyres designed for a road car, road use...and a heavy road car at that. Really....there is no sense or logic to reducing the pressure they operate at. They dont have soft or tall sidewalls to actually make any use of reduced pressure.
Probably more chance of making it worse.
This.And tyres designed for a road car, road use...and a heavy road car at that. Really....there is no sense or logic to reducing the pressure they operate at. They dont have soft or tall sidewalls to actually make any use of reduced pressure.
Probably more chance of making it worse.
I've done a few runs in my LS2 Monaro running at 440bhp with LS7 clutch + Flywheel + Ripshifer, + Wortec system.
First run - 'Daily car' run, normal tyres traction on etc, 13.4 - 108.4mph.
Second run - 'Low psi' - Went to 18psi in the rears, fronts were still daily driver (Around 32psi) Traction on: 13.2 - 110.6mph
Third run - 'Boy racer'. Remove spare tyre, boot liner, Tool kit, rear seats, anything that is in the car, sat nav etc... drain the fuel to practically empty (It was never high to start, extra weight..) Rear Tyres at 18psi, Front at 32 still. Traction off, go... 12.9 @ 112.0mph.
I decided to quit after that, as I reached my target of breaking the 12 second barrier.. I'm happy with what It did, and on the day, there's not a lot of road cars that will show it up. Remember you've got 1700+ Kg on the tarmac, and these newer, lighter turbo'd cars (Skyline in mind) are a lot quicker than our Aussie tanks...
All three were good starts with burnouts previous to get the rear warmer, and I never missed a gear (It happens to a lot of people)!
But yeah, anywhere around low 13's to high 12's is pretty standard for a 6.0 lump, If your running 14's on a good start, i'd recommend Monkfish, as there is something not running right! Hope this helps... Slightly!
Sammo.
First run - 'Daily car' run, normal tyres traction on etc, 13.4 - 108.4mph.
Second run - 'Low psi' - Went to 18psi in the rears, fronts were still daily driver (Around 32psi) Traction on: 13.2 - 110.6mph
Third run - 'Boy racer'. Remove spare tyre, boot liner, Tool kit, rear seats, anything that is in the car, sat nav etc... drain the fuel to practically empty (It was never high to start, extra weight..) Rear Tyres at 18psi, Front at 32 still. Traction off, go... 12.9 @ 112.0mph.
I decided to quit after that, as I reached my target of breaking the 12 second barrier.. I'm happy with what It did, and on the day, there's not a lot of road cars that will show it up. Remember you've got 1700+ Kg on the tarmac, and these newer, lighter turbo'd cars (Skyline in mind) are a lot quicker than our Aussie tanks...
All three were good starts with burnouts previous to get the rear warmer, and I never missed a gear (It happens to a lot of people)!
But yeah, anywhere around low 13's to high 12's is pretty standard for a 6.0 lump, If your running 14's on a good start, i'd recommend Monkfish, as there is something not running right! Hope this helps... Slightly!
Sammo.
Edited by Sammo92 on Friday 1st August 17:34
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