Oil temps !!??
Discussion
fastbikes76 said:
Ok so I have had a look and there is a blanking plate on the sump just above the oil filter. I have found this blanking plate with a 1/8th npt hole to suit my Oil Temp Gauge.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/141358870294?_trksid=p20...
If I find the stock gauge is miles out and the actual temps are not exceeding 105 to 110 I shall forget about the cooler.
If the gauge is remotely accurate and we are in fact seeing 130+ I shall fit an adapter like so which has a 82*c thermostat built in. That way the oil will reach operating temp before oil cooler opens.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/141318349322?_trksid=p20...
As for the actual cooler and lines, Ive not looked into that side of things too much but a simple Mocal core and some Pirtek custom made lines will see that sorted. I have roughly worked out a route away from the exhaust etc.
i dont think that will fit, ive got the slimline version and plan to fit a mocal thermostathttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/141358870294?_trksid=p20...
If I find the stock gauge is miles out and the actual temps are not exceeding 105 to 110 I shall forget about the cooler.
If the gauge is remotely accurate and we are in fact seeing 130+ I shall fit an adapter like so which has a 82*c thermostat built in. That way the oil will reach operating temp before oil cooler opens.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/141318349322?_trksid=p20...
As for the actual cooler and lines, Ive not looked into that side of things too much but a simple Mocal core and some Pirtek custom made lines will see that sorted. I have roughly worked out a route away from the exhaust etc.
stevieturbo said:
I'd love to know how the feel -8 fittings are safe ?
The main oil galleries in the block etc are circa 12.5mm diameter
Even a -10 fitting is smaller than this at around 11.5mm diameter ( hose may be larger ID, but the metal fittings restrict it further )
So for them to use -8 ports on the body must be even more restrictive.
The only way to maintain no less than 12.5mm diameter is to use -12 fittings.
Although -10 throughout is fairly close to maintaining the same diameter as main galleries
It doesnt make any odds. The oil flows through the cooler and what ever doesnt fit through the pipes/fittings simply bypasses and circulates round the engine as per normal. Most oil coolers are thermostatically operated and are closed when oil temp is below 80*c. If ALL the oil HAD to pass through the cooler we would be buggered lol.The main oil galleries in the block etc are circa 12.5mm diameter
Even a -10 fitting is smaller than this at around 11.5mm diameter ( hose may be larger ID, but the metal fittings restrict it further )
So for them to use -8 ports on the body must be even more restrictive.
The only way to maintain no less than 12.5mm diameter is to use -12 fittings.
Although -10 throughout is fairly close to maintaining the same diameter as main galleries
The GTO non turbo has no oil cooler, the TT version which uses the identical block does have a cooler fitted. The stock banjo bolts only have around a 5mm oil feed hole through them.
fastbikes76 said:
It doesnt make any odds. The oil flows through the cooler and what ever doesnt fit through the pipes/fittings simply bypasses and circulates round the engine as per normal. Most oil coolers are thermostatically operated and are closed when oil temp is below 80*c. If ALL the oil HAD to pass through the cooler we would be buggered lol.
The GTO non turbo has no oil cooler, the TT version which uses the identical block does have a cooler fitted. The stock banjo bolts only have around a 5mm oil feed hole through them.
There are no GTO single or twin turbo's from the factory ?The GTO non turbo has no oil cooler, the TT version which uses the identical block does have a cooler fitted. The stock banjo bolts only have around a 5mm oil feed hole through them.
So any item you refer to is aftermarket ?
Bottom line...if the oil has to pass through an orifice smaller than the oil galleries in the engine, I would be concerned about using it.
fastbikes76 said:
gsd2000 said:
i dont think that will fit, ive got the slimline version and plan to fit a mocal thermostat
I have miles of space around mine ? I took some pics last night and there is definitely more than enough space on mine with stock headers and cats.I'm interested in what you work out FB76, we'll speak about it at the weekend if possible?
stevieturbo said:
There are no GTO single or twin turbo's from the factory ?
So any item you refer to is aftermarket ?
Bottom line...if the oil has to pass through an orifice smaller than the oil galleries in the engine, I would be concerned about using it.
Sorry, I was referring to the Mitsubishi GTO which is the other cars I dabble in.So any item you refer to is aftermarket ?
Bottom line...if the oil has to pass through an orifice smaller than the oil galleries in the engine, I would be concerned about using it.
That's the point though regarding the coolers...the oil doesn't HAVE to pass through them, it has the option to do so, and whatever doesn't pass through flows through the engine as per normal with zero loss of oil pressure.
Think about it logically, the oil cooler mounts where there is usually a blanking plate. How is an AN-10 fitting more restrictive that a blocked off oil gallery ? I have oil pressure gauges spare as well as the temp one I'm about too fit. I can monitor pressure before and after cooler if required but I know from experience it makes zero difference.
ARAF said:
GSD has a Monaro, and I think he also has mid-length or long tubes, so space could well be an issue.
I'm interested in what you work out FB76, we'll speak about it at the weekend if possible?
Sure thing Ian, I'm interested in what you work out FB76, we'll speak about it at the weekend if possible?
We can have a natter at the weekend. Realistically I reckon a DIY kit could be built for around £300 all in which includes the thermostat. Most people dont bother with that but I like to do things properly !
kaw said:
Done all this 2 years ago been fine no problems since fitting,at the time people said it was a waste of time not needed ,funny how things change
When I first got the R8 I was shocked too see 110 on the stock gauge, I soon worked out that was normal although I've never been overly comfortable with that ! However the icing on the cake was the other night after a few spirited miles on the motorway and I spotted 130ish on the gauge.If that is accurate and we are in fact running our oil at 110+ that cant be good at all. What sort of temps are you now seeing on the gauge since fitting a cooler ?
fastbikes76 said:
ARAF said:
GSD has a Monaro, and I think he also has mid-length or long tubes, so space could well be an issue.
I'm interested in what you work out FB76, we'll speak about it at the weekend if possible?
Sure thing Ian, I'm interested in what you work out FB76, we'll speak about it at the weekend if possible?
We can have a natter at the weekend. Realistically I reckon a DIY kit could be built for around £300 all in which includes the thermostat. Most people dont bother with that but I like to do things properly !
ARAF said:
Shame Kaw isn't going to be at TR, to chat about his. I had a look at his thread from September 2012, and I think he also has a gearbox cooler - which could also be worthwhile for ours.
I am installing a ATX cooler on the other Mitsi Im about to TT. Does the UTE not have one as stock ? fastbikes76 said:
ARAF said:
Shame Kaw isn't going to be at TR, to chat about his. I had a look at his thread from September 2012, and I think he also has a gearbox cooler - which could also be worthwhile for ours.
I am installing a ATX cooler on the other Mitsi Im about to TT. Does the UTE not have one as stock ? ARAF said:
As far as I know, the normal transmission cooler is in the bottom of the radiator, but I haven't checked. Maybe Kaw can confirm?
Same ridiculous idea Mitsi had 
. So the coolest your ATX fluid will get is 97*c (or whatever your stock thermostat is) which is bonkers. The biggest killer of all ATX boxes is heat, so to incorporate the atx cooler in the rad is about the dumbest idea possible.One of the first upgrades on the Mitsi is to cap off the built in rad cooler and plumb in a remote cooler instead as the atx on them is mega prone to failure, often heat related.
I have something like this lined up for an ATX cooler on the GT
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191007039829?_trksid=p20...
You need to remember that the water temp is the critical temp the oil runs close to the water galleries so cannot be more than 20 degrees higher. also you need to remember these car are designed in AUZ where the ambient temp is much higher than the UK, so i would have thought they should not need modification to run in the UK?
MatrixXXx said:
You need to remember that the water temp is the critical temp the oil runs close to the water galleries so cannot be more than 20 degrees higher. also you need to remember these car are designed in AUZ where the ambient temp is much higher than the UK, so i would have thought they should not need modification to run in the UK?
The ONLY people I know who find oil temps of 110+ acceptable are HSV owners lol. EVERYONE else in both the performance world and NA camps find that waaaaaay to hot. As an example I powered up my oil temp Gauge that was previously fitted to my modified EVO and the warning is set at 105*c 
Equally I find the coolant temps too hot on these too, Optimal coolant and oil temps for most engines out there are between 80-100*c. A modified TT 3000GT runs at 85 cruising and peaks at 105-108c after a mega thrashing !
Dropping coolant and oil temps by 20*c on the LS engines will only have positive effects. We are not trying too lower temps beyond optimal operating parameters, just lower them to a more 'normal' range. Obviously you dont want to go too cool otherwise you wont burn off any water vapour accumulated in the sump. I Will be fitting a 220f stat on mine so that it gets hot enough to burn off vapour but run cooler than it currently does.
Oil temps on my R8 have concerned me a little actually. After a spirited uphill run over the pennines at the weekend my needle was happily seated at 130'C, that's uncomfortably warm for me. Likewise, I had the oil temp warning on my old Galant set to 120'C too
MatrixXXx said:
You need to remember that the water temp is the critical temp the oil runs close to the water galleries so cannot be more than 20 degrees higher. also you need to remember these car are designed in AUZ where the ambient temp is much higher than the UK, so i would have thought they should not need modification to run in the UK?
The temps should be close, but the water and oil do different jobs.So potentially yes the oil could get very hot, but of course it shouldnt.
But it's very dependent on engine, oil pressure, build tolerances, oil pump, the oil itself, and any other factors like whether it has to live with an oil fed blower or turbos. All of which can add heat too.
And whilst I agree the cars in standard form should easily cope with any normal conditions in the UK, even trackday and sustained hard use etc etc
The same may not always apply for modified cars.
But again it all seems to come down to firstly the OEM oil temp gauge is simply wrong, and yes the actual engine temps themselves do run quite hot standard.
stevieturbo said:
But again it all seems to come down to firstly the OEM oil temp gauge is simply wrong, and yes the actual engine temps themselves do run quite hot standard.
On our VXR8, I found the oil temp to be out by 35 deg C, when read with an IR thermometer, so I didn't worry - and maybe I should have.The Ute also runs the oil hot (according to the gauge) , so I invested in some temp stickers, and have them stuck on the sump and oil filter. So far, they've recorded oil temps of 127 degC (on track) - and I was short-shifting to try and keep temps down.
Both of these cars have standard engines.
stevieturbo said:
But again it all seems to come down to firstly the OEM oil temp gauge is simply wrong,
That's exactly it, So far I only know of Araf comparing by checking with an IR thermometer, this could have given skewed results if it was picking up residual heat from the actual engine. I intend to install a proper oil temp gauge fitted in the location where a factory oil cooler is usually fitted on some LS2 engined cars.Once I have an accurate measurement of what our oil temps are doing I can make the decision on whether an oil cooler is actually required or not. If I am seeing a REAL 105-110 MAX, I wont worry about a cooler. However if I am seeing 110+ then a cooler with a 105* stat will be a certainty !
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