keeping an eye out for rust
Discussion
shunter V8 said:
On the inside at the front of the bonnet,I found a nasty surprise.
Do you mean the crossmember behind the bumper?What bits need removing from under the car for a good undersealing? Does the diff and fuel tank need to come out or can you spare behind with the tank in situ?
As you open the bonnet at the front of it on the inside of it , worth taking bumper off and doing front subframe , plus where the jacking points are , it's always worth doing front and rear arches , I reseal car about once a year does not take long , when you go for a mot then ask to have a look , the bonnet bit is first bit to check
vxr2010 said:
As you open the bonnet at the front of it on the inside of it , worth taking bumper off and doing front subframe , plus where the jacking points are , it's always worth doing front and rear arches , I reseal car about once a year does not take long , when you go for a mot then ask to have a look , the bonnet bit is first bit to check
If you follow bs a bit in the bonnet. Cut it out and put a vent there!!!Worst place is probably on the top of the front chassis leg where the front cradle bolt comes through
Usually o/s/f , downpipes quite close there , may cause it to sweat & corrode
Anyone having any sort of wax oil or dinitrol etc it counts most in box sections & seems
Putting your head underneath & seeing it looks nice & covered means nowt you never see a panel rotting from the centre out
Usually o/s/f , downpipes quite close there , may cause it to sweat & corrode
Anyone having any sort of wax oil or dinitrol etc it counts most in box sections & seems
Putting your head underneath & seeing it looks nice & covered means nowt you never see a panel rotting from the centre out
raving said:
Worst place is probably on the top of the front chassis leg where the front cradle bolt comes through
Usually o/s/f , downpipes quite close there , may cause it to sweat & corrode
Anyone having any sort of wax oil or dinitrol etc it counts most in box sections & seems
Putting your head underneath & seeing it looks nice & covered means nowt you never see a panel rotting from the centre out
Some good pointers there for an inspection.Usually o/s/f , downpipes quite close there , may cause it to sweat & corrode
Anyone having any sort of wax oil or dinitrol etc it counts most in box sections & seems
Putting your head underneath & seeing it looks nice & covered means nowt you never see a panel rotting from the centre out
raving said:
Worst place is probably on the top of the front chassis leg where the front cradle bolt comes through
Usually o/s/f , downpipes quite close there , may cause it to sweat & corrode
Anyone having any sort of wax oil or dinitrol etc it counts most in box sections & seems
Putting your head underneath & seeing it looks nice & covered means nowt you never see a panel rotting from the centre out
Some good pointers there for an inspection.Usually o/s/f , downpipes quite close there , may cause it to sweat & corrode
Anyone having any sort of wax oil or dinitrol etc it counts most in box sections & seems
Putting your head underneath & seeing it looks nice & covered means nowt you never see a panel rotting from the centre out
And here's a link explaining the different types of rust proofing.
http://www.dinitrol.co.uk/Products/RustPreventionW...
Don't use the black stuff that covers and hides what lurking under it. The guys on the classic mini forum tell me, it's scary what rust proofing hides.
I'm thinking of using this type of product for a number of reasons
It's clear ( so you can see any issues araising
It'll help alot when they put so much salt on the roads in winter ( Northwest they use far to much on the roads )
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221045166529?_trksid=p2060...
Difficult to see what traditional rustproofing is likely to achieve on a car which has been driven all it's life through winters. All the nooks and crannies will be full of road debris and harbour moisture. Weak areas will have started to rust. Any treatment will need to thoroughly clean these which would be very labour intensive. No professional could do the work for sensible money.
If the car has not seen winters then post treatment now could be effective.
Body on mine has stood up well and I have periodically squirted WD40 into orifices in the chassis rails, bonnet etc. Suspension components have suffered a bit which I have wax oiled, but ultimately these parts are replaceable.
If the car has not seen winters then post treatment now could be effective.
Body on mine has stood up well and I have periodically squirted WD40 into orifices in the chassis rails, bonnet etc. Suspension components have suffered a bit which I have wax oiled, but ultimately these parts are replaceable.
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