Battery in boot, 8" subs finally wired in...

[KMud]

After much ado and several false starts...




Fuses...


Needs a good clean and some rust attention...

Not much to say, no handy guide here. Observations though...

• Power cables at the front are difficult to wrangle, little choice in that earthing point and box for the positive cables
• It's a fiddle to get the battery box far enough forward that you can get the battery in the box, and far enough back that it clears the spare wheel well
• Also not much room underneath when dropping the studs through the boot floor, got to watch out for the charcoal canister and such
• American battery box means Imperial bolts...
• Wogan never sounded better

No turbos or anything particularly interesting planned, just better weight distribution and more room to tidy up the engine bay. The red tape on the rear shelf is because the 3D printed sub rings put the Pyramid 8" sub terminals really close (but not touching) to the shelf, and I haven't resorted to any cutting of the shelf. Those sub rings were PLA, which may get a bit soft on a very hot day - I've since tweaked the design and printed them out again in ABS which should withstand anything...but can't be arsed to swap them out unless the PLA ones go South...photo from the archive from back when:

[FoxdieUK]

A lot of inspiration here. Please can you itemise everything you've bought for those who wanna follow suit?

[KMud]

FoxdieUK said:

A lot of inspiration here. Please can you itemise everything you've bought for those who wanna follow suit?

For the battery it's basically:

• Summit battery box kit (would recommend sourcing a local metric one, ideally that would accommodate a bigger battery)
• 5m welding cable to use as positive (thick and flexible, 70mm^2)
• additional eyelet connectors for welding cable
• inline fuse holders
• little terminal box for the connectors at the front
• convoluted tubing

The devil is in the details though - an auto electrician sourced that tidy front terminal box and the big fuse holder for me (and crimped on the connectors, much easier with a pro tool). I wouldn't advise doing this little lot unless you're confident and really want/need it, as it's a lot of fiddly work!

[FoxdieUK]

KMud said:

*Summit battery box kit (would recommend sourcing a local metric one, ideally that would accommodate a bigger battery)

• 5m welding cable to use as positive (thick and flexible, 70mm^2)
• additional eyelet connectors for welding cable
• inline fuse holders
• little terminal box for the connectors at the front
• convoluted tubing

I have a battery box, 0-gauge cable, eyelets, inline fuse etc, what I'm particularly interested in is the subwoofer mounts and how you wired it up

[KMud]

FoxdieUK said:

I have a battery box, 0-gauge cable, eyelets, inline fuse etc, what I'm particularly interested in is the subwoofer mounts and how you wired it up

For your VXR8? Isn't the battery already in the boot?

The sub rings I designed and printed out - I've no idea what the VXR8 can accommodate, but getting 8" speakers in a 6.5" gap in the monaro takes some doing. I went through quite a few versions before I got them to fit well, but you could take ferret's approach and do it in MDF.

The only wiring is +/Earth to power amp, remote cable and phonos from head unit for switching and signal, and +/- to each speaker.

[Sohlman]

Another subwoofer option all be it an expensive one is using the JL Audio 6w6 6.5" subs. They are 150w rms and drop into the 20hz range. Should slot straight in and will be the option I am going to go with

[KMud]

Sohlman said:

Another subwoofer option all be it an expensive one is using the JL Audio 6w6 6.5" subs. They are 150w rms and drop into the 20hz range. Should slot straight in and will be the option I am going to go with

Path of least resistance and nice option if you're happy to invest...my Pyramid subs are cheapest of the cheap (like me...).

[Behold81]

Bay looks lik a Monaro or old GTS. I want to do this. Might need to talk about cables etc.

[Behold81]

Bay looks lik a Monaro or old GTS. I want to do this. Might need to talk about cables etc.

[FoxdieUK]

Currently I have one of these;

In Phase USW12

It's pretty good, certainly adds some good bass but it's really missing the deep bass love. I need organ-shattering bass!

[the_ferret82]

KMud said:

Sohlman said:

Another subwoofer option all be it an expensive one is using the JL Audio 6w6 6.5" subs. They are 150w rms and drop into the 20hz range. Should slot straight in and will be the option I am going to go with

Path of least resistance and nice option if you're happy to invest...my Pyramid subs are cheapest of the cheap (like me...).

and they sound really good, for the lack of money you can pick them up for.. i know i have them in mine..

[KMud]

the_ferret82 said:

and they sound really good, for the lack of money you can pick them up for.. i know i have them in mine..

No coincidence

P.S., it will get tidied a bit, waiting for adhesive cable tidies (though the wires necessarily have some slack so you don't have to disconnect everything to access the battery).

[the_ferret82]

KMud said:

the_ferret82 said:

and they sound really good, for the lack of money you can pick them up for.. i know i have them in mine..

No coincidence

P.S., it will get tidied a bit, waiting for adhesive cable tidies (though the wires necessarily have some slack so you don't have to disconnect everything to access the battery).

stick on cable tidies, who needs them



with a bit of sneekyness you can hide the cabling in the bar under the rear deck.

[KMud]

Did think that would work well, but not with the amp in the centre...can't remember seeing a hole there. Will sort something!

[the_ferret82]

KMud said:

Did think that would work well, but not with the amp in the centre...can't remember seeing a hole there. Will sort something!

my amp is on the passenger side bolted just above the wheel arch so it works well to hide all the wires and keeps it out the way (no pics sorry)