Forced Induction Interchillers
Discussion
GenF-GTS said:
Thought I would update you guys on the LS1 Monaro CV8Z we did.
When we installed the chiller on Wills car we informed him like we inform most people his intercooler pump is crap, he had decent results from the chiller but now since changing to the top of the line pump we recommend his temps are way down, he has also taken our advice of installing a custom made reservoir and in todays hot humid weather these were the results. This is an LS1 with the older style magnuson 2300 that usually run 50-60c intake temps, he is now getting 18c chiller only and 22c with cabin and chiller. Next step is installing blower spacer plates which get the blower off the engine and will drop the temps even further.
(Condensation build up is generally not a problem when drag racing as you have the bonnet open in the pits, there is plenty of air and you're not trapping it to form condensation.)
I would have thought condensation wont be a problem on a run as engine bay temps would soon sink heat into the tanks & system??When we installed the chiller on Wills car we informed him like we inform most people his intercooler pump is crap, he had decent results from the chiller but now since changing to the top of the line pump we recommend his temps are way down, he has also taken our advice of installing a custom made reservoir and in todays hot humid weather these were the results. This is an LS1 with the older style magnuson 2300 that usually run 50-60c intake temps, he is now getting 18c chiller only and 22c with cabin and chiller. Next step is installing blower spacer plates which get the blower off the engine and will drop the temps even further.
(Condensation build up is generally not a problem when drag racing as you have the bonnet open in the pits, there is plenty of air and you're not trapping it to form condensation.)
MyM8V8 said:
I would have thought condensation wont be a problem on a run as engine bay temps would soon sink heat into the tanks & system??
Happens on long drives with the bonnet closed.It doesn't happen when drag racing as the bonnet is open and not trapping air inside when you are in the pits.
Turn the car off close the bonnet for 5-10min and its all gone.
Hi guys, any of you worried about chiller from Kirk don't be mine has been on there for circa 19000kms and been yo drags numerous times... Zero issues none whatsoever ever.
Did install with Kirk on Monaro you see in thread (orange car) and all good.
Very simple install
Know most of you guys pretty handy, Roger could fit very easily, I know Kirk and can say he is passionate about chillers and is available to talk to about install etc...
In fact he would rather chat to you when car getting gassed after install to ensure he happy with gas qty going in and to confirm ok.
So of you may remember me on this forum before moved to Oz,
Any questions ask away
Nick
Did install with Kirk on Monaro you see in thread (orange car) and all good.
Very simple install
Know most of you guys pretty handy, Roger could fit very easily, I know Kirk and can say he is passionate about chillers and is available to talk to about install etc...
In fact he would rather chat to you when car getting gassed after install to ensure he happy with gas qty going in and to confirm ok.
So of you may remember me on this forum before moved to Oz,
Any questions ask away
Nick
Xpuffin said:
No, I think it's the unknown plus the distance that's a hurdle. Plus if it goes wrong who's to blame if a third party installs it.
We warranty the entire system for 12 months on parts and workmanship, when we ship them it is fully insured should it get lost/stolen etc we replace it. This has not happened and we do hope it never happens. We have sent a kit sent to the UK for Richard and his E3 Heartbeat VXR8.
wormus said:
Tempted but it's bit of an unknown and I don't want to pay for the development costs.
We have it installed on over 30 cars now, plenty of shops here in Australia also stocking us. have a watch here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gKSXzFd72Is
We are re-doing this video soon withj a proper media outlet, like fullboost.
For those who question a HP gain....it's very simple you cool the intercooler fluid down your IAT sensor picks up the air temp of the now cold air and your ECU put you in a different range of your intake air temp table and add more ignition timing, more timing = more HP...simple.
Blue zone is where the chiller was in the video above, black circled zone is where the intake temps went to without the chiller, as you can see we are gaining back about 8 degrees of timing with the chiller....thats a boat load of HP.
Blue zone is where the chiller was in the video above, black circled zone is where the intake temps went to without the chiller, as you can see we are gaining back about 8 degrees of timing with the chiller....thats a boat load of HP.
GenF-GTS said:
add more ignition timing, more timing = more HP...simple.
This is far too simplistic and is only valid where you are not knock limited and assuming spark is not already at MBT. Othewise adding more timing does not equal more power. It equals LESS!
Broad generalisations are misleading.
What is valid is that more air to burn in the chamber (from denser cooler air) = more power assuming the engine is operating withing operational limits. (sufficient fuel, spark, heat management etc)
ringram said:
This is far too simplistic and is only valid where you are not knock limited and assuming spark is not already at MBT.
Othewise adding more timing does not equal more power. It equals LESS!
Broad generalisations are misleading.
What is valid is that more air to burn in the chamber (from denser cooler air) = more power assuming the engine is operating withing operational limits. (sufficient fuel, spark, heat management etc)
Are you back full time? Othewise adding more timing does not equal more power. It equals LESS!
Broad generalisations are misleading.
What is valid is that more air to burn in the chamber (from denser cooler air) = more power assuming the engine is operating withing operational limits. (sufficient fuel, spark, heat management etc)
ringram said:
GenF-GTS said:
add more ignition timing, more timing = more HP...simple.
This is far too simplistic and is only valid where you are not knock limited and assuming spark is not already at MBT. Othewise adding more timing does not equal more power. It equals LESS!
Broad generalisations are misleading.
What is valid is that more air to burn in the chamber (from denser cooler air) = more power assuming the engine is operating withing operational limits. (sufficient fuel, spark, heat management etc)
Without the inter-chiller, and assuming a S/C set-up in standing traffic, aren't I likely to see heat soak contribute to raised IAT's, and thus the ECU then begin to retard timing? The net effect being loss of power?
Whereas with the inter-chiller, the heat soak effect should have a much diminished effect on IAT's, and thus the ECU doesn’t need to retard timing. Net effect no/little loss of power?
So it's not so much that the inter-chiller leads to more power, but more that it protects aginst situations where the ECU reduces the power.
Have I got this right?
(P.S. Nice to see you back on here Rich!)
Edited by pah250 on Monday 22 February 15:15
pah250 said:
I'm well out of my depth here, but can I just ask one question:
Without the inter-chiller, and assuming a S/C set-up in standing traffic, aren't I likely to see heat soak contribute to raised IAT's, and thus the ECU then begin to retard timing? The net effect being loss of power?
Whereas with the inter-chiller, the heat soak effect should have a much diminished effect on IAT's, and thus the ECU doesn’t need to retard timing. Net effect no/little loss of power?
So it's not so much that the inter-chiller leads to more power, but more that it protects aginst situations where the ECU reduces the power.
Have I got this right?
(P.S. Nice to see you back on here Rich!)
Pretty much correct.Without the inter-chiller, and assuming a S/C set-up in standing traffic, aren't I likely to see heat soak contribute to raised IAT's, and thus the ECU then begin to retard timing? The net effect being loss of power?
Whereas with the inter-chiller, the heat soak effect should have a much diminished effect on IAT's, and thus the ECU doesn’t need to retard timing. Net effect no/little loss of power?
So it's not so much that the inter-chiller leads to more power, but more that it protects aginst situations where the ECU reduces the power.
Have I got this right?
(P.S. Nice to see you back on here Rich!)
Edited by pah250 on Monday 22 February 15:15
ringram said:
This is far too simplistic and is only valid where you are not knock limited and assuming spark is not already at MBT.
Othewise adding more timing does not equal more power. It equals LESS!
Broad generalisations are misleading.
What is valid is that more air to burn in the chamber (from denser cooler air) = more power assuming the engine is operating withing operational limits. (sufficient fuel, spark, heat management etc)
Putting it into the correct context would make it make more sense, what you go WOT in your supercharged car your intake air temps skyrocket in doing so your IAT correction table will removing ignition timing based on how hot your intake temps are, so you are losing HP, with the chiller you have a much lower intake temp so you are not removing timing you are keeping the timing that you have. Othewise adding more timing does not equal more power. It equals LESS!
Broad generalisations are misleading.
What is valid is that more air to burn in the chamber (from denser cooler air) = more power assuming the engine is operating withing operational limits. (sufficient fuel, spark, heat management etc)
As shown in the picture of the IAT table posted a couple of posts back we were losing 8 degrees of timing without the chiller and with the chiller we never lost the timing so we gained HP.
pah250 said:
I'm well out of my depth here, but can I just ask one question:
Without the inter-chiller, and assuming a S/C set-up in standing traffic, aren't I likely to see heat soak contribute to raised IAT's, and thus the ECU then begin to retard timing? The net effect being loss of power?
Whereas with the inter-chiller, the heat soak effect should have a much diminished effect on IAT's, and thus the ECU doesn’t need to retard timing. Net effect no/little loss of power?
So it's not so much that the inter-chiller leads to more power, but more that it protects aginst situations where the ECU reduces the power.
Have I got this right?
(P.S. Nice to see you back on here Rich!)
correct you do not get hot when stopped in traffic, recently we had a customer at the drags on a 30c day and his intake temps were 10c whilst waiting in the pits with the car idling for 20-40min between runs. Without the inter-chiller, and assuming a S/C set-up in standing traffic, aren't I likely to see heat soak contribute to raised IAT's, and thus the ECU then begin to retard timing? The net effect being loss of power?
Whereas with the inter-chiller, the heat soak effect should have a much diminished effect on IAT's, and thus the ECU doesn’t need to retard timing. Net effect no/little loss of power?
So it's not so much that the inter-chiller leads to more power, but more that it protects aginst situations where the ECU reduces the power.
Have I got this right?
(P.S. Nice to see you back on here Rich!)
Edited by pah250 on Monday 22 February 15:15
When you go WOT without the chiller your temps increase quite high then with the chiller they do not go anywhere near as high and you have more ignition timing as it's not being removed since you are at a lower temp in the IAT table. So you gain HP.
How long can you hold wot before iats become high enough to pull timing.
(Appreciate its a difficult question to answer but possible if you base it on the car you have used in the video, as we can already see iats in the mid 40s after 14 secs.)
We don't do much drag racing over here, the only real application for most of the forum members track wise is a standing mile event.
(Appreciate its a difficult question to answer but possible if you base it on the car you have used in the video, as we can already see iats in the mid 40s after 14 secs.)
We don't do much drag racing over here, the only real application for most of the forum members track wise is a standing mile event.
GenF-GTS said:
Happens on long drives with the bonnet closed.
It doesn't happen when drag racing as the bonnet is open and not trapping air inside when you are in the pits.
Turn the car off close the bonnet for 5-10min and its all gone.
When I make my tank it will be insulated, also as much pipe work as possible.It doesn't happen when drag racing as the bonnet is open and not trapping air inside when you are in the pits.
Turn the car off close the bonnet for 5-10min and its all gone.
Seems a shame after the hard work done by the a/c compressor to allow "coolness"
to be wasted.
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