Forced Induction Interchillers
Discussion
ks 
Hugely impressive all round numbers and test data !
Is there a lower ambient temperature range where this system might cause
problems with actually freezing things up ? I know you could simply turn the ac off, but
even during cold weather over here running the a/c helps prevent misting up windscreens ect.
Is there a lower ambient temperature range where this system might cause
problems with actually freezing things up ? I know you could simply turn the ac off, but
even during cold weather over here running the a/c helps prevent misting up windscreens ect.
rich24v said:
Hugely impressive all round numbers and test data !
Is there a lower ambient temperature range where this system might cause
problems with actually freezing things up ? I know you could simply turn the ac off, but
even during cold weather over here running the a/c helps prevent misting up windscreens ect.
There is no issue, your AC system will cycle on/off when the evaporator temperature sensor reaches it's min temp to prevent the evaporator freezing up. Is there a lower ambient temperature range where this system might cause
problems with actually freezing things up ? I know you could simply turn the ac off, but
even during cold weather over here running the a/c helps prevent misting up windscreens ect.
Hi All
Just let you guys know I have one of these fitted to my car (gen f gts), whilst I'm not at Kirks power level, I'm running 28% Overdrive, ID850's, Stock Exhaust Catless. I'm seeing peak of 14.75psi boost and on run from 40kmh to 245kmh I see my temps raise from 13c - 54c this is running cabin ac and chiller, you can start cooler by just having chiller only on.
Oh and ambient was a cool 29c.
So by Uk standards thats one of only several hot days you will get a year!!!.
Def worth mod if your running higher boost, anything that keeps IATs in check is good.
Just let you guys know I have one of these fitted to my car (gen f gts), whilst I'm not at Kirks power level, I'm running 28% Overdrive, ID850's, Stock Exhaust Catless. I'm seeing peak of 14.75psi boost and on run from 40kmh to 245kmh I see my temps raise from 13c - 54c this is running cabin ac and chiller, you can start cooler by just having chiller only on.
Oh and ambient was a cool 29c.
So by Uk standards thats one of only several hot days you will get a year!!!.
Def worth mod if your running higher boost, anything that keeps IATs in check is good.
liam1986 said:
my car needs new aircon pipe work fitting(going rusty), how much easier is fitting the kit if the aircon pipe work is out of the car?
Depends what car it is. V8NHH said:
Hi All
Just let you guys know I have one of these fitted to my car (gen f gts), whilst I'm not at Kirks power level, I'm running 28% Overdrive, ID850's, Stock Exhaust Catless. I'm seeing peak of 14.75psi boost and on run from 40kmh to 245kmh I see my temps raise from 13c - 54c this is running cabin ac and chiller, you can start cooler by just having chiller only on.
Oh and ambient was a cool 29c.
So by Uk standards thats one of only several hot days you will get a year!!!.
Def worth mod if your running higher boost, anything that keeps IATs in check is good.
This car also needs a reservoir and it will run even colder. It can easily be under 40c for peak IAT with a reservoir as we have seen 41c when we dont bypass the front heat exchanger and cool the entire cooling loop. Just let you guys know I have one of these fitted to my car (gen f gts), whilst I'm not at Kirks power level, I'm running 28% Overdrive, ID850's, Stock Exhaust Catless. I'm seeing peak of 14.75psi boost and on run from 40kmh to 245kmh I see my temps raise from 13c - 54c this is running cabin ac and chiller, you can start cooler by just having chiller only on.
Oh and ambient was a cool 29c.
So by Uk standards thats one of only several hot days you will get a year!!!.
Def worth mod if your running higher boost, anything that keeps IATs in check is good.
ARAF said:
Is that the front bumper that you've cut through?
It is the crash bar it's the only location for it, it is possible to weld/box it back in and an engineer has reported to us he would pass it in a report.The smaller 12.5" chiller we sell will fit within the bar.
The crumple zone is the chassis rails, the bar simply shares the load and folds in on itself like it normally would, the chillers are indestructible and will take almost any kind of impact.
As you know guys that run air:air intercoolers on these cars often remove the reo bar all together and simply have nothing, at least it is still there on this.
pah250 said:
GenF-GTS said:
Thanks for explaining about the bar cutting. I've seen lots of cars with it removed, and on the basis that car manufacturers don't add anything to their cars unnecessarily have always thought it was a bad idea. You've obviously looked into it though from your reply, so that will reassure many.
pah250 said:
Forgive my ignorance, but looks to my untrained eyes as though the installation might impede air flow into the rad?
The chiller itself is not in the air flow path, the lines and TX valve are in the air flow path, however where is this air going to go?It cannot go backwards and exit the front bumper so it simply has to go around the lines and hoses and still have the exact same effect at cooling the radiators etc. The lines and TX valve are not in any way impeding air flow....simply impossible.
wormus said:
Doesn't that mean any minor bump would result in a loss of the chiller thing, radiators and all coolant?
The chiller can take quite a large impact it's almost indestructible, the crash bar is for low speed impact, if you weld box it back in there will be no effect to its structural integrity as explained before we spoke to an engineer about boxing it back in and he said if done he would pass it on a report. You also have to remember the chassis rails are the crumple zone of the car not the crash bar (it's only for low speed impact) and to share the load evenly.
And as said before guys who fir AIR:AIR intercoolers often remove the crash bar all together and have nothing there at all.
The other option is to buy the 12.5" chiller which will fit inside the crash bar and not require cutting the front or rear of the crash bar.
Having researched this myself for a different application I can only add that removal or modification of any part of the cars impact protection system (ie crash bar) would have resulted in my insurance company refusing to cover the vehicle so guys,before you buy, it's well worth putting the question to yours before you start buying systems that have hacked about with the bar as its there to prevent the chassis rails from splaying and thus, not crumpling. You simply are not correct with what you are saying about the crash bar.
Regarding the airflow, your not correct. (Again) Any obstruction to the laminar flow will result in a reduction in pressure downstream of the obstruction, as the air attempts to fill the low pressure area behind it also begins to swirl, further reducing cooling efficiency. not to mention the high pressure caused by the obstruction itself(Think of a rock in a fast running river and how turbulent the water becomes).
Regarding the airflow, your not correct. (Again) Any obstruction to the laminar flow will result in a reduction in pressure downstream of the obstruction, as the air attempts to fill the low pressure area behind it also begins to swirl, further reducing cooling efficiency. not to mention the high pressure caused by the obstruction itself(Think of a rock in a fast running river and how turbulent the water becomes).
Edited by Xpuffin on Wednesday 30th December 09:37
The VT-VZ model is the only car which has required the bar to be cut into, all VE-VF (2008-2016) models do not require cutting into the bar at all.
As said before we spoke with an engineer about cutting into the bar, he explained if we welded it back together and boxed it in he would pass it, thus your insurance company cannot refuse a claim as it has been approved, no idea how your laws work over there to here but that piece of paper will legally hold them to it here.
The other option is to run the smaller 12.5" interchiller we sell which wont require cutting of the bar. You also have to remember the bar is still in place and will still do it's intended job, it has not been removed like other guys often do when installing front mount air:air intercooler systems.
Regarding air flow to the radiators, you have an area that is roughly 120cm long by 30cm tall, lets call it 3600cm2
Several inches into the cavity of this bumper bar you have a 1 hose that is 19mm in diameter and in the air path for lets say 35cm so lets call that 1.9cm x 35cm = 66.5cm2
The you have another hose that is 10mm in diameter it is about 20cm long so that is 20cm2
So all up 86.5cm2 lets just blow this out to 100cm2 just for the sake of it.
Now your 3600cm2 air flow path has a couple of hoses in it that take up 100cm2 of area they are laid long ways across the opening.
The air enters the front bar it hits these tiny hoses and the air goes over and under the hoses....it then travels through the radiators as per normal.
It is impossible that these hoses located several inches into the bar will force air out of the bar...simply impossible the air speed is too much and too fast it has air behind the air that you are measuring further pushing all air that enters that front bumper is going to go through the radiator as per normal.
We have expensively logged a 100% stock VF GTS against one that has the interchiller installed, we were mainly doing this to see AC system pressures for comparisons however we also logged ECT, IAT's, Oil temps etc all were 100% normal.
It is simply impossible to suggest that the air that enters the front bumper can be forced to leave the front bumper or have less cooling effect because of a couple of small hoses.
Happy New Year guys
As said before we spoke with an engineer about cutting into the bar, he explained if we welded it back together and boxed it in he would pass it, thus your insurance company cannot refuse a claim as it has been approved, no idea how your laws work over there to here but that piece of paper will legally hold them to it here.
The other option is to run the smaller 12.5" interchiller we sell which wont require cutting of the bar. You also have to remember the bar is still in place and will still do it's intended job, it has not been removed like other guys often do when installing front mount air:air intercooler systems.
Regarding air flow to the radiators, you have an area that is roughly 120cm long by 30cm tall, lets call it 3600cm2
Several inches into the cavity of this bumper bar you have a 1 hose that is 19mm in diameter and in the air path for lets say 35cm so lets call that 1.9cm x 35cm = 66.5cm2
The you have another hose that is 10mm in diameter it is about 20cm long so that is 20cm2
So all up 86.5cm2 lets just blow this out to 100cm2 just for the sake of it.
Now your 3600cm2 air flow path has a couple of hoses in it that take up 100cm2 of area they are laid long ways across the opening.
The air enters the front bar it hits these tiny hoses and the air goes over and under the hoses....it then travels through the radiators as per normal.
It is impossible that these hoses located several inches into the bar will force air out of the bar...simply impossible the air speed is too much and too fast it has air behind the air that you are measuring further pushing all air that enters that front bumper is going to go through the radiator as per normal.
We have expensively logged a 100% stock VF GTS against one that has the interchiller installed, we were mainly doing this to see AC system pressures for comparisons however we also logged ECT, IAT's, Oil temps etc all were 100% normal.
It is simply impossible to suggest that the air that enters the front bumper can be forced to leave the front bumper or have less cooling effect because of a couple of small hoses.
Happy New Year guys
Gassing Station | HSV & Monaro | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff