CV8 or GTS?

[k-ink]

Thinking about one of the above. I've seen a few around for around £10k or less. What are your thoughts regarding which to go for? Reliability and parts are my main concern over the fastest for the budget. If you know of any genuinely good cars around please let me know. Or ones to avoid, things to look for etc.

Thanks!

[MyM8V8]

I've got both and I think you will fare better with the CV8 unless you need the extra doors.

[Phillphill]

Mine would work well for you Cv8 for well under £10k

[Behold81]

Early cv8 gives you a sensible boot if you don't need the doors.

Look for cars with certain mods as it will save you a fortune long term.

[V88Dicky]

My old CV8 has been up for sale at an independent since I traded it back in April. I know what he paid me for it, so there's plenty of bargaining room!

It's the black VZ with 37k on it. Well looked after car with some sensible mods by AAS.

I'd love to see it go to a good home

[k-ink]

Thanks guys. Seems like a CV8 is the most appealing just for the shape.

Is there anything which is essential to upgrade for reliability. I only heard something about a bearing and gearbox. What's the deal? Thanks!

[wozzza]

I would look at VXR's are well. CV8's are the model under the VXR. As such you end up with terrible brakes on the CV8, long gearing, and less power. An price wise, there isn't a massive difference.

Worth researching the various models as boot sizes differ by years 2004 CV8's / VXR's have the big boot. Later CV8's and VXR's have the small boot. Different brake sizes by year and in all honesty the AP's are a nice upgrade to have. An in a way a requirement if you want to drive quickly. Along with poly bushes and a rip shfter.

I would just read the forums the FAQ's etc and learn about everything then go and test drive a few. Buying one with mods is the sensible thing to do as well.

Edited by wozzza on Monday 20th June 23:28

[Codswallop]

k-ink said:

Thanks guys. Seems like a CV8 is the most appealing just for the shape.

Is there anything which is essential to upgrade for reliability. I only heard something about a bearing and gearbox. What's the deal? Thanks!

Nothing major to watch out for in terms of reliability beyond usual old car checks.

The gearbox spigot bearing often needs replacing between 60k-80k miles. People mention to keep an ear out for a whining noise from the tranny as the gearbox will be ruined if the bearing goes. Not an expensive job to replace when the 'box is off. Mine is currently on about 75k miles and I'll be getting the bearing changed as a precaution soon when I get a new clutch fitted (everything in that area is still original to my knowledge).

My car is a early 04 CV8. As wozza said, the standard brakes are marginal at 300mm for a car of this size. They work well enough for my liking however. The lack of a strong servo means you need to push the pedal hard to get meaningful stopping power unlike in most modern cars (which can contribute to the feeling that they lack bite). I actually like this as it makes modulating the brakes much easier.

I've even had the car on track and the brakes work fine, though the relatively small disc size means fade can be an issue if you're using the brakes hard over a long period. At least it means replacement discs and pads cost bugger all.

Overall my experience of the CV8 over 4 years can be summed up as; characterful, reliable, cheap to run and most importantly, fun.

[Phillphill]

k-ink said:

Thanks guys. Seems like a CV8 is the most appealing just for the shape.

Is there anything which is essential to upgrade for reliability. I only heard something about a bearing and gearbox. What's the deal? Thanks!

Reliability other than the spigot bearing they are quite a robust car.
Look for rust, its easy to overlook and forget thinking its a new car but they can get away from you.

Upgrade wise you can really transform the car
These are what i find the stock things that people do

Brakes - A few options depending on budget. VXR brakes, just bigger than the stock ones. Yes not as good as the APs/Wortecs but 1/4 of the costs and the running cost are a hell of alot cheaper, I have cars with both VXR and Wortecs, on the road unless you are HARD on it I would find it hard to justify the cost in my opinion (other than brake feel itself)

LS7 clutch/spigot bearing and remote bleed, most have had this done and a no brainer if you are replacing the clutch

Bushes, all monaros are heavy cars so are heavy on their suspension/braking systems. My bushes were annihilated, a common upgrade and relativity cheap one is to Poly bush. It transforms the feel of the car

Ripshifter/short shifter, I have never seen a monaro without one of these!

Remap, makes a differance on the CV8 but worth saving until you have ideally done all the power mods then map in one hit

After that you get into other bits....

Alot fit the shorter ratio diffs, which again makes the car feel far more lively. The cv8 is fitted with a 3.45:1 diff but you can have a 3.7 or 3.9 diff fitted.

Exhaust - everyone wants a exhaust on a Monaro, cat backs wont make much power difference to really shout about. The CV8 manifolds are restrictions.
Few companies out there make headers, and there are plenty of options. Most from Aus are long style headers and these really perform well. AAS make a decent tubular manifold too.
I fitted VXR headers on my CV8 and what a differance it made. Mid range pickup was transformed along with the noise.

Suspension - to make the car feel less boat like, pedders shocks and springs are a really popular upgrade. Coilovers are an option, but again I have cars with both and the pedders shocks and springs do ride bloody well

Goes on from there really..

A few may disagree with me but thats my view.
Basically listed the spec of my cv8
If you are near come and drive mine, I have a CV8 and VXR currently
and may just sell you the cv8

[k-ink]

Thanks for all the info! I guess with cars like these the tuning bug gets a bit carried away. No wonder people say get a car with the mods done. I'll have a think about my budget