Check engine light

[siovey]

rusty88 said:

Hey dude, well there's going to be a slight change of plan regarding getting to the bottom of my issue as my diff is now on it's last legs.
It's developed a grinding noise over the last few weeks which has become increasingly louder. Having a new one fitted on Friday.
May have to wait another month or two before having the rev dropping issue looked at as I've got 100k service, pas cooler and tyres all overdue now!

Did you not have low coolant warning before it ran out? I got a slow leak on mine and when it gets low enough it usually tells me.
Also do you know which pipe was knackered?

Hi mate, it all seems to happen at once!! Once done though, it'll be worth it.
I had no warning, all of a sudden the engine temp went right to the top so I pulled straight over and called the aa. I think it happened too fast for the warning light.He showed me the hole in the pipe and then put 7 litres of coolant in. it was fine after that. Its a skinny pipe which the rubber hose attaches to from the coolant reservoir. Not the best description! lol. If you need a photo to see if yours is the same area , let me know and i'll get one uploaded tomorrow
Cheers
Si

[SturdyHSV]

siovey said:

I had no warning, all of a sudden the engine temp went right to the top

The way the temp gauge works from the factory doesn't help. Basically, the gauge will sit on 3/8 when it is within its 'normal' operating range so as to avoid concerning people.

So if the coolant temp is anywhere between 85* - 110* it will simply show as 3/8 on the gauge.

You can change this with a soldered up cable and some software the Americans made so that the gauge shows a range of useful values instead:

C = 60
1/4 = 75
3/8 low = 80
3/8 high = 82.2
1/2 = 93.3
5/8 = 98.8
3/4 = 105
7/8 = 106.6
H = 117.7

It does take a little while to get used to the gauge actually moving about though

[siovey]

SturdyHSV said:

The way the temp gauge works from the factory doesn't help. Basically, the gauge will sit on 3/8 when it is within its 'normal' operating range so as to avoid concerning people.

So if the coolant temp is anywhere between 85* - 110* it will simply show as 3/8 on the gauge.

You can change this with a soldered up cable and some software the Americans made so that the gauge shows a range of useful values instead:

C = 60
1/4 = 75
3/8 low = 80
3/8 high = 82.2
1/2 = 93.3
5/8 = 98.8
3/4 = 105
7/8 = 106.6
H = 117.7

It does take a little while to get used to the gauge actually moving about though

Cheers sturdy. If I end up keeping the car, there are a few things I'd like to do to it. Sounds like this is an additional item to look at too!

[SturdyHSV]

siovey said:

Cheers sturdy. If I end up keeping the car, there are a few things I'd like to do to it. Sounds like this is an additional item to look at too!

No probs, Mud on here has done it to his 04 CV8, although I can't remember the degree of success (or otherwise) he had, so if you do pursue it may be worth asking him

[Mud_]

SturdyHSV said:

No probs, Mud on here has done it to his 04 CV8, although I can't remember the degree of success (or otherwise) he had, so if you do pursue it may be worth asking him

The coolant temperature gauge was the thing I wanted most and the only thing that didn't take!

I didn't chase it up with the ls1gto folk - I've installed a dedicated gauge for a regular oil temperature sender anyway.

[siovey]

Mine has also been cutting out while coasting to a stop but I've just spoken to monkfish and they've advised if the battery has been disconnect recently it will need to re-learn it's idle speed which would take a couple of weeks. Top blokes there!!