Is a cam upgrade worth the money?
Discussion
How good with spanners are you?
How lairy do you want a cam?
Are you planning on doing anything else?
Realistic prices are (if you can install yourself - it isn't overall a difficult either, more time consuming)
Tune/mapping - you NEED this, car will fire up after install and run but it must be mapped. Depending where you are and how far you can travel (not far on a untuned car). For example Wortec can map for iirc £550 + vat
Most tuning shops in the USA do deals on cam kits, giving you everything you will need to change the cam.
For example a cam (most are made by Comp to each shops own specs) are $175-$300
Valve springs (you must change depening on specs) are anywhere from $100-$300
You will need new pushrods these are normally about $70-$80
You will want a new crank seal, crank bolt and waterpump gaskets which are a few bucks.
shop around, most of the shops will help out including your shipping. TSP, Maryland, Speedinc are a few, Summit racing are helpful too
Some may disagree but I would change the Oil pump if you are a higer mileage engine given your 90% of the way there to do so and also the timing chain.
You can simply swap cams without doing the pump and chain
I swapped my cam out last year, I went for a Speedinc SI5 cam, its a good size 231/237 with .595 lift.
Heres the sound https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X9ddO7M_pE8
Totally transformed the car, and a mega hot day dyno pull it put down 450hp/480ftlb. The rest of the mods on the car were an old K&N, AAS headers and half a Wortec exhaust as one silencer had fallen off!
Cams make a big difference, yes you have improved power and future modifications like heads/fast intake will help improve those power gains but the characteristics of the car change too (for the better), the sound and how the power is delivered
You need to think about your budget and where you want the power modifications to progress too. I ran my car with just the cam for around 6 months and I have now bought heads and a Fast 102 to help bring the power up more (its addictive)
There are good deals out there for heads and cam packages too
Hope that makes sense!
How lairy do you want a cam?
Are you planning on doing anything else?
Realistic prices are (if you can install yourself - it isn't overall a difficult either, more time consuming)
Tune/mapping - you NEED this, car will fire up after install and run but it must be mapped. Depending where you are and how far you can travel (not far on a untuned car). For example Wortec can map for iirc £550 + vat
Most tuning shops in the USA do deals on cam kits, giving you everything you will need to change the cam.
For example a cam (most are made by Comp to each shops own specs) are $175-$300
Valve springs (you must change depening on specs) are anywhere from $100-$300
You will need new pushrods these are normally about $70-$80
You will want a new crank seal, crank bolt and waterpump gaskets which are a few bucks.
shop around, most of the shops will help out including your shipping. TSP, Maryland, Speedinc are a few, Summit racing are helpful too
Some may disagree but I would change the Oil pump if you are a higer mileage engine given your 90% of the way there to do so and also the timing chain.
You can simply swap cams without doing the pump and chain
I swapped my cam out last year, I went for a Speedinc SI5 cam, its a good size 231/237 with .595 lift.
Heres the sound https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X9ddO7M_pE8
Totally transformed the car, and a mega hot day dyno pull it put down 450hp/480ftlb. The rest of the mods on the car were an old K&N, AAS headers and half a Wortec exhaust as one silencer had fallen off!
Cams make a big difference, yes you have improved power and future modifications like heads/fast intake will help improve those power gains but the characteristics of the car change too (for the better), the sound and how the power is delivered
You need to think about your budget and where you want the power modifications to progress too. I ran my car with just the cam for around 6 months and I have now bought heads and a Fast 102 to help bring the power up more (its addictive)
There are good deals out there for heads and cam packages too
Hope that makes sense!
Phillphill said:
How good with spanners are you?
How lairy do you want a cam?
Are you planning on doing anything else?
Realistic prices are (if you can install yourself - it isn't overall a difficult either, more time consuming)
Tune/mapping - you NEED this, car will fire up after install and run but it must be mapped. Depending where you are and how far you can travel (not far on a untuned car). For example Wortec can map for iirc £550 + vat
Most tuning shops in the USA do deals on cam kits, giving you everything you will need to change the cam.
For example a cam (most are made by Comp to each shops own specs) are $175-$300
Valve springs (you must change depening on specs) are anywhere from $100-$300
You will need new pushrods these are normally about $70-$80
You will want a new crank seal, crank bolt and waterpump gaskets which are a few bucks.
shop around, most of the shops will help out including your shipping. TSP, Maryland, Speedinc are a few, Summit racing are helpful too
Some may disagree but I would change the Oil pump if you are a higer mileage engine given your 90% of the way there to do so and also the timing chain.
You can simply swap cams without doing the pump and chain
I swapped my cam out last year, I went for a Speedinc SI5 cam, its a good size 231/237 with .595 lift.
Heres the sound https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X9ddO7M_pE8
Totally transformed the car, and a mega hot day dyno pull it put down 450hp/480ftlb. The rest of the mods on the car were an old K&N, AAS headers and half a Wortec exhaust as one silencer had fallen off!
Cams make a big difference, yes you have improved power and future modifications like heads/fast intake will help improve those power gains but the characteristics of the car change too (for the better), the sound and how the power is delivered
You need to think about your budget and where you want the power modifications to progress too. I ran my car with just the cam for around 6 months and I have now bought heads and a Fast 102 to help bring the power up more (its addictive)
There are good deals out there for heads and cam packages too
Hope that makes sense!
Thanks. Can you send me links or names of places that will do these deals?How lairy do you want a cam?
Are you planning on doing anything else?
Realistic prices are (if you can install yourself - it isn't overall a difficult either, more time consuming)
Tune/mapping - you NEED this, car will fire up after install and run but it must be mapped. Depending where you are and how far you can travel (not far on a untuned car). For example Wortec can map for iirc £550 + vat
Most tuning shops in the USA do deals on cam kits, giving you everything you will need to change the cam.
For example a cam (most are made by Comp to each shops own specs) are $175-$300
Valve springs (you must change depening on specs) are anywhere from $100-$300
You will need new pushrods these are normally about $70-$80
You will want a new crank seal, crank bolt and waterpump gaskets which are a few bucks.
shop around, most of the shops will help out including your shipping. TSP, Maryland, Speedinc are a few, Summit racing are helpful too
Some may disagree but I would change the Oil pump if you are a higer mileage engine given your 90% of the way there to do so and also the timing chain.
You can simply swap cams without doing the pump and chain
I swapped my cam out last year, I went for a Speedinc SI5 cam, its a good size 231/237 with .595 lift.
Heres the sound https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X9ddO7M_pE8
Totally transformed the car, and a mega hot day dyno pull it put down 450hp/480ftlb. The rest of the mods on the car were an old K&N, AAS headers and half a Wortec exhaust as one silencer had fallen off!
Cams make a big difference, yes you have improved power and future modifications like heads/fast intake will help improve those power gains but the characteristics of the car change too (for the better), the sound and how the power is delivered
You need to think about your budget and where you want the power modifications to progress too. I ran my car with just the cam for around 6 months and I have now bought heads and a Fast 102 to help bring the power up more (its addictive)
There are good deals out there for heads and cam packages too
Hope that makes sense!
Phillphill said:
I swapped my cam out last year, I went for a Speedinc SI5 cam, its a good size 231/237 with .595 lift.
Heres the sound https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X9ddO7M_pE8
Totally off topic but what wheels are those on the Monaro?Heres the sound https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X9ddO7M_pE8
Phillphill said:
How good with spanners are you?
How lairy do you want a cam?
Are you planning on doing anything else?
Realistic prices are (if you can install yourself - it isn't overall a difficult either, more time consuming)
Tune/mapping - you NEED this, car will fire up after install and run but it must be mapped. Depending where you are and how far you can travel (not far on a untuned car). For example Wortec can map for iirc £550 + vat
Most tuning shops in the USA do deals on cam kits, giving you everything you will need to change the cam.
For example a cam (most are made by Comp to each shops own specs) are $175-$300
Valve springs (you must change depening on specs) are anywhere from $100-$300
You will need new pushrods these are normally about $70-$80
You will want a new crank seal, crank bolt and waterpump gaskets which are a few bucks.
shop around, most of the shops will help out including your shipping. TSP, Maryland, Speedinc are a few, Summit racing are helpful too
Some may disagree but I would change the Oil pump if you are a higer mileage engine given your 90% of the way there to do so and also the timing chain.
You can simply swap cams without doing the pump and chain
I swapped my cam out last year, I went for a Speedinc SI5 cam, its a good size 231/237 with .595 lift.
Heres the sound https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X9ddO7M_pE8
Totally transformed the car, and a mega hot day dyno pull it put down 450hp/480ftlb. The rest of the mods on the car were an old K&N, AAS headers and half a Wortec exhaust as one silencer had fallen off!
Cams make a big difference, yes you have improved power and future modifications like heads/fast intake will help improve those power gains but the characteristics of the car change too (for the better), the sound and how the power is delivered
You need to think about your budget and where you want the power modifications to progress too. I ran my car with just the cam for around 6 months and I have now bought heads and a Fast 102 to help bring the power up more (its addictive)
There are good deals out there for heads and cam packages too
Hope that makes sense!
Thanks. Can you send me links or names of places that will do these deals?How lairy do you want a cam?
Are you planning on doing anything else?
Realistic prices are (if you can install yourself - it isn't overall a difficult either, more time consuming)
Tune/mapping - you NEED this, car will fire up after install and run but it must be mapped. Depending where you are and how far you can travel (not far on a untuned car). For example Wortec can map for iirc £550 + vat
Most tuning shops in the USA do deals on cam kits, giving you everything you will need to change the cam.
For example a cam (most are made by Comp to each shops own specs) are $175-$300
Valve springs (you must change depening on specs) are anywhere from $100-$300
You will need new pushrods these are normally about $70-$80
You will want a new crank seal, crank bolt and waterpump gaskets which are a few bucks.
shop around, most of the shops will help out including your shipping. TSP, Maryland, Speedinc are a few, Summit racing are helpful too
Some may disagree but I would change the Oil pump if you are a higer mileage engine given your 90% of the way there to do so and also the timing chain.
You can simply swap cams without doing the pump and chain
I swapped my cam out last year, I went for a Speedinc SI5 cam, its a good size 231/237 with .595 lift.
Heres the sound https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X9ddO7M_pE8
Totally transformed the car, and a mega hot day dyno pull it put down 450hp/480ftlb. The rest of the mods on the car were an old K&N, AAS headers and half a Wortec exhaust as one silencer had fallen off!
Cams make a big difference, yes you have improved power and future modifications like heads/fast intake will help improve those power gains but the characteristics of the car change too (for the better), the sound and how the power is delivered
You need to think about your budget and where you want the power modifications to progress too. I ran my car with just the cam for around 6 months and I have now bought heads and a Fast 102 to help bring the power up more (its addictive)
There are good deals out there for heads and cam packages too
Hope that makes sense!
xover said:
Phillphill said:
How good with spanners are you?
How lairy do you want a cam?
Are you planning on doing anything else?
Realistic prices are (if you can install yourself - it isn't overall a difficult either, more time consuming)
Tune/mapping - you NEED this, car will fire up after install and run but it must be mapped. Depending where you are and how far you can travel (not far on a untuned car). For example Wortec can map for iirc £550 + vat
Most tuning shops in the USA do deals on cam kits, giving you everything you will need to change the cam.
For example a cam (most are made by Comp to each shops own specs) are $175-$300
Valve springs (you must change depening on specs) are anywhere from $100-$300
You will need new pushrods these are normally about $70-$80
You will want a new crank seal, crank bolt and waterpump gaskets which are a few bucks.
shop around, most of the shops will help out including your shipping. TSP, Maryland, Speedinc are a few, Summit racing are helpful too
Some may disagree but I would change the Oil pump if you are a higer mileage engine given your 90% of the way there to do so and also the timing chain.
You can simply swap cams without doing the pump and chain
I swapped my cam out last year, I went for a Speedinc SI5 cam, its a good size 231/237 with .595 lift.
Heres the sound https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X9ddO7M_pE8
Totally transformed the car, and a mega hot day dyno pull it put down 450hp/480ftlb. The rest of the mods on the car were an old K&N, AAS headers and half a Wortec exhaust as one silencer had fallen off!
Cams make a big difference, yes you have improved power and future modifications like heads/fast intake will help improve those power gains but the characteristics of the car change too (for the better), the sound and how the power is delivered
You need to think about your budget and where you want the power modifications to progress too. I ran my car with just the cam for around 6 months and I have now bought heads and a Fast 102 to help bring the power up more (its addictive)
There are good deals out there for heads and cam packages too
Hope that makes sense!
Thanks. Can you send me links or names of places that will do these deals?How lairy do you want a cam?
Are you planning on doing anything else?
Realistic prices are (if you can install yourself - it isn't overall a difficult either, more time consuming)
Tune/mapping - you NEED this, car will fire up after install and run but it must be mapped. Depending where you are and how far you can travel (not far on a untuned car). For example Wortec can map for iirc £550 + vat
Most tuning shops in the USA do deals on cam kits, giving you everything you will need to change the cam.
For example a cam (most are made by Comp to each shops own specs) are $175-$300
Valve springs (you must change depening on specs) are anywhere from $100-$300
You will need new pushrods these are normally about $70-$80
You will want a new crank seal, crank bolt and waterpump gaskets which are a few bucks.
shop around, most of the shops will help out including your shipping. TSP, Maryland, Speedinc are a few, Summit racing are helpful too
Some may disagree but I would change the Oil pump if you are a higer mileage engine given your 90% of the way there to do so and also the timing chain.
You can simply swap cams without doing the pump and chain
I swapped my cam out last year, I went for a Speedinc SI5 cam, its a good size 231/237 with .595 lift.
Heres the sound https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X9ddO7M_pE8
Totally transformed the car, and a mega hot day dyno pull it put down 450hp/480ftlb. The rest of the mods on the car were an old K&N, AAS headers and half a Wortec exhaust as one silencer had fallen off!
Cams make a big difference, yes you have improved power and future modifications like heads/fast intake will help improve those power gains but the characteristics of the car change too (for the better), the sound and how the power is delivered
You need to think about your budget and where you want the power modifications to progress too. I ran my car with just the cam for around 6 months and I have now bought heads and a Fast 102 to help bring the power up more (its addictive)
There are good deals out there for heads and cam packages too
Hope that makes sense!
I have the tools but not the space nor time to do it since I live in a city.
How many hours does it take to fit the cam?
Cam is a good few hours, mainly because of removing everything out of the way!
I removed the bumper but I don't think you need to do so
Remove rad and ac condenser
All associated belts
Pulley wheel
Water pump
Timing chain cover
Timing chain and sprocket
All the coil packs
Valve train
Pushrods
That allows you to change the cam, physically taking one cam out and putting the new in takes about 5 minutes
The next time consuming part is swapping all the valve springs then putting it all back together!
You need a few special tools which are
Crank pulley puller
Valve spring tool
Lifter blocks (I used wooden dowels that fitted in the oil galleys to stop the lifters dropping)
Tool to hold valves whilst changing springs (I have a compressor line with a fitting that went into the spark hole but unfortunately would turn the engine over as my compressor was too strong!) so I used a dowel and TDC method!
All the work is simple, just time consuming
I removed the bumper but I don't think you need to do so
Remove rad and ac condenser
All associated belts
Pulley wheel
Water pump
Timing chain cover
Timing chain and sprocket
All the coil packs
Valve train
Pushrods
That allows you to change the cam, physically taking one cam out and putting the new in takes about 5 minutes
The next time consuming part is swapping all the valve springs then putting it all back together!
You need a few special tools which are
Crank pulley puller
Valve spring tool
Lifter blocks (I used wooden dowels that fitted in the oil galleys to stop the lifters dropping)
Tool to hold valves whilst changing springs (I have a compressor line with a fitting that went into the spark hole but unfortunately would turn the engine over as my compressor was too strong!) so I used a dowel and TDC method!
All the work is simple, just time consuming
xover said:
Thanks for all that info, very kind.
It sounds like a half day job, but tuners are asking for more than the labour time, tune and parts. I guess i'm paying for the power benefit on top of parts and labour which makes it less attractive proposition since it's an aging car.
If you can do that in half a day, from start to engine running, in situ, i take my hat off to you.......................................................It sounds like a half day job, but tuners are asking for more than the labour time, tune and parts. I guess i'm paying for the power benefit on top of parts and labour which makes it less attractive proposition since it's an aging car.
xover said:
Thanks for all that info, very kind.
It sounds like a half day job, but tuners are asking for more than the labour time, tune and parts. I guess i'm paying for the power benefit on top of parts and labour which makes it less attractive proposition since it's an aging car.
Once you have faffed about with everything, it is a full days workIt sounds like a half day job, but tuners are asking for more than the labour time, tune and parts. I guess i'm paying for the power benefit on top of parts and labour which makes it less attractive proposition since it's an aging car.
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